In the morning, around 8 am, Auntie B is ready to serve a proper Irish Breakfast. Auntie B is an exceptional cook, even the pudding sausages are wonderful this morning. As you can see an Irish breakfast is a lot of food and nearly all protein.
Pat and Lauren are here on a 2-week vacation to Northwest Ireland. They flew into Shannon, Ireland, and spent a few days around Sligo. Sligo is south across the bay from Killybegs. Today, they are taking it easy. They've been on a frantic tour to see everything they can, but have come to realize much of Ireland doesn't move before 9 am, and now they've decided to slow down. Daylight lasts until 11 pm in June, why start the day at 6 am? An hour and a half later we part ways and wish each other safe travels.
Glenties feels very familiar and comforting. It isn't until later that I realize it is the only Irish town in County Donegal, that I've been to, that has a Main Street with two-way traffic.
My plan today is to take it easy, also. If I can give my feet a couple of nights to rest, perhaps those hot spots will toughen up. Glenties is about 7.5 mi (12 km) away. Around 1030 am, I bid Auntie B farewell. She is a lovely old lady and begins to tell me all her horror stories of bike tour companies promising their guest that Auntie B will do their laundry without making arrangements with her prior. Then I learn all about her American guests, that want, as she put it "A 5-star hotel on Bed and Breakfast budget." We laugh together at the dumb things people do and expect. Thirty minutes later, Auntie B says, you best get on the road. Below is a parting glimpse of Ardara, looking south back to the town.
The trail soon begins to follow the Owenea River towards Glenties. This is the start of the Bluestack Way, a 3-day journey across one of Ireland's true wildernesses. The trail makes its way through the Bluestack Mountains that lie between Ardara and Donegal Town. Read more on the Bluestack Way
The Owenea River is a welcome site. The trail is flat and follows the river for about half the distance today. The river is a popular fishing destination and a commonly accessed part of the Bluestack Way. In fact, the trial is so popular that they even mow the trial (see below).
As I walk along the manicured trail, I soon come across a rake and a gas can. Off in the distance, I see an Irish lad working a gas-powered trimmer. I pick up the gas can and rake and wander his direction. By the time I arrive, he's stopped the trimmer and begins taking off his safety gear. Helmet with face shield, which you can barely see-through, as it is covered in green clippings, earplugs, and gloves. He appreciates not having to double back for these two items. He's lived in County Donegal his whole life, which I assume to be about 25 years or so. He tells me the fishing is pretty good in the Owenea River, this is why he's been hired to groom the trail. After about 10 minutes, I let him get back to and I resume my morning walk.
The trail is covered in wildflowers, like this foxglove
A couple hours in I begin to think about lunch, as I round the corner, the trail provides a sturdy picnic table. Amazed by my luck, I shed my pack, and pull out lunch, John West sardines, baby bell cheese, and Tuc crackers. I've grown quite fond of the Tuc crackers, they taste similar to a Ritz cracker but less buttery and a better crisp.
Casually a group of three day-hikers strolls down the trail. Two older women and a man. The two gals do all the talking. "Ah, so your hiking the Alpaca Trail? That's what we call it 'cause we can't pronounce it", jokingly says the first. They are surprised by my progress in 4 short days. They are from Northern Ireland and don't have a lot of good news about the trail once I cross the border near Killeter (Kah-leeter). Towns are a long way apart and they don't seem optimistic about my chances of camping either. Soon after they resume their trek to Ardara where they have a 2nd car parked that will allow them to get back to their vacation house in Glenties. Below is a photo approaching Glenties, after leaving the Owenea River.
Only about 3 Klicks remain now. On the opposite side of the road, I pass a gentleman walking and talking on the phone. Just before heading into Glenties, I decide to shed my pack and sip some water while I give my feet a break. The gentleman, no longer on the phone, approaches. We strike up a good long conversation. John Dooley (below) tells me Marguerite's Bed and Breakfast in Glenties, where I've booked my accommodations, is a great place to stay. "None better," he says. John is a retired Guard, that's Irish for a police officer, he tells me. Johns shares a lot of knowledge to help me on my journey. He is also concerned about camping once I cross the border in a few days. "I knew it right away. You were a good man," he tells me. "I've learned to trust my gut feelings when I see people. You have to be a good person to be doing the kind of trip you are doing or you're likely to lose it. Solitude makes some people crazy," he says to me. It feels good to hear John say that, and he's right, so we exchange selfies and I proceed into Glenties.
Another gift from the trail. As I turn onto Main Street, I spot a local farmer's market fruit and vegetable stand. For 2 euros, I pick up a couple of apples, one green, and one red, as well as two clementine oranges. The apples I devour right away. Crisp, juicy, and refreshing. The clementines I tuck away into my waist belt pouch for the trip to Donegal.
Marguerite's Bed and Breakfast is a lovely establishment. All the doors and trim are African Mahogany, one of my favorite woods. Marguerite is a tall blond Irish woman who reminds me of Laura Dern, the actress. Except, Marguerite has a DEEP baritone Irish voice, not something you'd expect to come out of her body. She tells me they are working on their internet and hope to have it back up soon. I tell her about my encounter with John Dooley, "He's a talker", she says as she rolls her eyes. "A full Irish breakfast in the morning at 8 am," she says. My feet feel tired today. But they are in good shape. I am aware of the hotspot, but it feels better. Fortunately, the day was short and there was little pavement. Even better Marguerite's Bed and Breakfast is right in the middle of Main Street, a luxury for me at this point in my journey.
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