Rain is pounding on the pavement when I wake for breakfast. Expected, but not ideal weather for my walk. I check the weather app, it appears the weather is going to break just before noon. A late start is in order. So, after another full Irish breakfast, I decide to spend the morning gathering provisions from local supermarkets. I'm sitting here laughing and shaking my head after typing "supermarkets." Really these little stores resemble local convenience stores back home, with some fruits, veggies, and a limited selection of meats. Donegal Town is a two-day walk from Glenties, so I grab enough food to cover that portion of the trip. Around 11am, I say goodbye to Marguerite and Glenties.
Not soon after I leave town, the rain stops. After a few hundred feet, I do a quick check...head good, body good, feet good, mind good, heart good, All-Good! Feet good! As I was hoping, my feet feel GREAT today! No hotspots and I'm looking forward to what lies along the Bluestack Way. Not far out of town, the trail heads up the first big climb of the day. The photo below is looking back towards Glenties as I make my first climb.
County Donegal lies within the Atlantic and Mountain blanket bog regions of Ireland. These wetland types occur in flatlands, as well as on slopes of many of the hills and mountains that I happen to be walking through. It is an adjustment realizing that I need to hike through wetlands that occur on slopes as opposed to low areas like back home. Common wetland plant types I come across this morning include multiple species of rushes, carpet-forming mosses, bog cotton, and small sedges. I remember Frank's guidance from a few days ago, "Think like a local and you'll avoid the deep spots." I spend much of my climb up zigging and zagging through the bog, learning to recognize the trouble spots.
The descent is much easier and follows a boggy gravel road. I'm able to bounce from one side of the road to the other, largely avoiding the deeper standing water. Near the bottom, I pass by this old stone building and tree (see right). They catch my attention and I ponder what life was like when this building was being used with regular frequency. I admire the foundation, the walls, hardly a crack anywhere, amazing workmanship!
At around 130 pm, I shed my pack. Then filter water, refill my Nalgenes, grab lunch, and stick my arm (unknowingly) into a patch of stinging nettle. Instantly, I'm taken back to my time in the Pacific Northwest in the late 90s. We frequently encountered this obnoxious little plant while chasing northern spotted owls across timberlands. Our goal was to identify individuals by capturing and banding them. What fun that was! The sensation on my arm brings me back, the pain lasts a few minutes and fades away. I laugh at myself for being so careless. I take lunch below my next big climb. This one will be much steeper, a climb up from 574 ft (175 m) to 1,312 ft (400 m) over 2 miles (3.2 km).
The first 15 minutes are rather easy (above), a trek up an old gravel road. As soon as I turn off the road, I notice I'm in for a long wet slog up the hill. More blanket bog, oh great! I've broken my morning's trek and subsequent future treks through blanket bogs into three categories: 1) squish (wet areas); 2) plop (usually 2-4 inches of water); and 3) OH SHIT (Looks like #1 but your foot sinks >6" on your first step). I try to avoid #3 as best I can. Unable to proceed in a straight line, I spend a lot of effort zigging, zagging, squishing, and plopping my way uphill, then OH SHIT! I backtrack as quickly as possible and find another way up. Thank goodness for waterproof boots and Outdoor Research Helium Gaiters. These ultralight versions of their popular Crocodile gaiters are fantastic, they breathe well and are absolutely waterproof. Doesn't do any good to keep water out of the outside of your boots if it gets in from the top. My feet are dry and feeling great!
Halfway up I stop to admire the view. The hills from this distance remind me of Wyoming in the springtime. My favorite time of year in Wyoming. It only lasts about 4 maybe 6 weeks at most. Perhaps this is why I love it so much, one of the few things I miss about Wyoming. Ireland of course is much wetter and stays green year-round. From afar though, it's impossible for my eyes to tell the difference between this GIANT wetland that is Ireland and Wyoming, at least not today given the overcast skies.
I finally crest the top. What a spectacular view. To the northwest, I can see Ardara, Maghera Strand as well as the cliffs where the caves are located. To the southeast, I can see Donegal Town far off in the distance. I don't linger long, the wind is ripping, and it's getting cool. Best I start making my way down the mountain.
The descent is much easier and follows a boggy gravel road. I'm able to bounce from one side of the road to the other, largely avoiding the deeper standing water. Near the bottom, I pass by this old stone building and tree (see right). They catch my attention and I ponder what life was like when this building was being used with regular frequency. I admire the foundation, the walls, hardly a crack anywhere, amazing workmanship!
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