At 930 am, Paul comes up to check on me. "How are the legs?" he asks before we head down the stairs to his car. Paul offered to save me the walk into town this morning and I gladly accepted. The two days of rest is what I needed. We'll see how we do, I say. When we get into the car, Elton John's "I'm Still Standing" is playing on the radio. I've always loved that song. Today it seems appropriate and fitting. On the way into town, we start to chat about old cars. "My dream is to win the lottery and buy a 1940s Cadillac, blue with an alabaster top. I would like the traditional gauges to flip into the dash once you start it. This would reveal a modern LED dashboard for operation", he says. I can tell Paul has given this car considerable thought. "If you are going to dream, dream big right?" he says and smiles. Paul's new neighbor recently won the lottery with a ticket purchased in Draperstown, 3.5 M euros. maybe Paul's dream isn't very farfetched.
At 1030, I take the first of four daily buses, heading to Derry Airport. Navigating the narrow aisles with a pack can be tricky at times. I find comfort in sitting within the bike and handicapped sections. I feel handicapped at the moment, I tell myself. The extra room makes it easy to unload the pack.
Around 1230, I arrive at the Derry bus centre. One of the biggest and nicest terminals I've been at thus far. I'm surprised to see a working phone booth, a relic of the past.
I decide to grab lunch. The pub is only 440 m (1,200 ft), uphill, unfortunately. I walk out of the bus center and am instantly rewarded with this view. In the center of the picture is the Guildhall (Town Hall). Derry feels like the BIG city that it is of 90,000+ people. It is one of the only remaining cities that is completely walled, and is often referred to as the "Walled City". The wall is about 1 mi (1.6 km) in circumference and was built in the early 1600s as a defense against the Catholics and Scotts. I wouldn't mind exploring this city, I am enjoying its vibe. However, I don't have it in me today. It takes everything I have to walk up the hill to the pub for lunch.
Around 230 pm, the bus drops me off at the Derry Regional Airport. I'm looking forward to getting my car and shedding my pack. Martin with Avis Rent-a-Car arrives at about 245 pm and begins the check-in process. He is in a jovial mood, and we laugh and joke our way through the process. "You must enjoy spending time with yourself and be solid in the head to do what you are doing", he says. Or mad, I say as we both laugh. I thank him for the compliment. "I enjoy spending time with myself too and love long walks," he tells me. "Will the wee (small) car work for you?" he asks. I nod yes. I'm expecting a tiny Fiat 500, instead, I get Vauxhall Corsa. Much bigger than I was expecting. "You need to check out Grianan of Aileach (Gree uh naan uhv al yuhk). It is the one site I always want to visit when I'm out with my wife. You won't regret it!" he says.
I leave the airport, uncertain how quickly I'll adapt to this whole driving on the wrong side of the road thing. Fortunately the gas pedal, brake, and clutch are in the right positions, just on the "wrong side" of the car. For the most part, I find it rather easy to pilot the rental. I'm reminded of what Lauren said to me in Ardara a few days ago, "The hardest part for me, is I keep looking over my left shoulder for the seatbelt." I laugh as I did the same thing when I go in the car. I head southwest into County Donegal, Grianan of Aileach. The drive takes me about 30 minutes as I cautiously navigate countless roundabouts.
Grianan of Aileach is on my list to visit. I decide to head there first since Martin recommended it. I arrive at a quarter to 4 pm. The site sits atop Greenan Mountain and offers a spectacular view of Lough Swilly (northwest) and Lough Foyle (northeast). The site was restored in the 1870s and is a stone fort dating back to the late 800s. As I arrive, it begins to rain. The rain chases the remaining visitors back to their cars. Perfect, I have it all to myself for the next 30 minutes.
View from the interior top level, looking north.
This is the kind of site, we would never be able to access in the US. The steps are wet, uneven, and definitely don't meet current building codes. Look at those steps! I take my time and hobble up the steps to the top.
This photo gives you perspective on how the fort is built on the interior, a series of tier with multiple staircases allowing passage up and down in both directions.
Looking northwest towards Lough Swilly. Spectacular view!
View from the west side.
The entrance to the fort.
Martin nailed it! This is exactly the type of site I want to visit over the next week. After enjoying my time at Grianan of Aileach, I get back in the car and reach for the seatbelt over my left shoulder. Doh! Finally, buckle up and head north.
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