Londonderry or Derry (Northern Ireland; 2 of 2) | Stone Circles and Bogwood - Day 15

As I leave Grianan of Aileach, I reflect on the amazing structure and panoramic views from Greenan Mountain. This is a great start to my reboot. I can't explain why Martin suggested the site for me to visit. Maybe he recommends it to all his clients going south into County Donegal? Perhaps the universe is watching out for me? Maybe what has transpired needs no explanation? After pondering this for a moment, I find solace in recognizing that I am receptive, willing, and able to take advantage of gifts like these. The reason for them does not matter. Just like that, I let the thought move on.

I decide to head north up the Inishowen (in nuh show uhn) Peninsula, Ireland's largest peninsula and the one that extends the furthest north. The following link has a great aerial photo of both Grianan of Aileach and Malin Head Inishowen Information. I want to stop at the Bocan Stone Circle on the way up the Peninsula. After a 40-minute drive, I pull into a driveway of a local bogwood shop. Being skeptical of my google maps directions, which are telling me it’s in this woman’s backyard, I get out to confirm my location with the shop owner. "Yes, the Bocan Stone Circle," she confirms I am near. However, she reroutes me to their location. "After you visit the Bocan Circle, there's another just down the road, The Temple of Deen", she offers up. "When you're done visiting the stone circles, come back and visit my gallery", she says. I will, thank you. 

Stone circles are abundant in Ireland. About 187 sites are known, most occurring in County Cork in the south. This particular site dates from 2500 - 1500 BC. The stone circles found in Ireland are smaller and newer than sites like Stonehenge in England or the Callanish Stones in Scotland. However, they aren't any less significant. Stone circles are found worldwide, including in Europe, Asia, and Africa. Little information exists from the Bronze Age. Much of the stones circles' purposes are lost to history, at least for now. Notably, many have special alignments with summer and winter solstices, other key events in the lunar or solar calendar, and special alignments with the stars. 

I follow the directions back to the site. The Bocan Stone Circle is quite a site, though it is a fraction of what once stood. Currently, there are 7 large stones, where once 12 stood. The first thing I notice is the orientation of the stones. All the flat portions of the stones face inward. You can tell these stones were placed here with a purpose. 

Next, as I move around the circle, the shape of each stone changes.

It's impossible to tell if these stones had a flat side initially or if they have been "manufactured" to be flat. 

After leaving the Bocan Circle, I head up the road to the lesser-known site, the Temple of Deen (a.k.a. Druids Altar). The site is considerably larger. It is quite difficult to appreciate the entire site or capture it with a camera from the ground. The site is spread out over some 220 yards (200 m) with a ridgeline in between. The photo below is a massive stone. It stands at least 9 feet (2.5 m) tall. What is not captured well is the noticeable flat plane (right side of stone) facing inwards to the site. As I walk past the stones, I notice how easy it would be to overlook the clear orientation of the stones and pass them off as simply rocks in pasture. The orientation is undeniable and clearly shows purposeful placement. 

The Druids Altar, pictured below, is even more impressive than the Bocan Stone Circle. As I walk through the meadow, I feel that this site has remained relatively undisturbed. It feels incomplete as I walk amongst the large stones, back to the gate, as if some are still hidden. I read later that many of these stone circles sites have not been fully excavated.

When I get back to the car, I decide I ought to follow up with the shop owner and at a minimum, thank her for pointing me in the right direction and the tip on exploring the Temple of Deen. As I pull up to her house and shop, Mary greets me. Mary is a wonderful person, and we connect immediately. We spend the next several minutes discussing the sites. "The Temple of Deen has much better energy," she says. I concur. We discuss the two sites, and Calgary, where her son now lives before I ask to see her shop. I don't know what I am in store for.

I step into the gallery and am consumed with the beautiful smell of wood and beeswax. It's hard to describe the aroma. A bit musty smelling and dry at the same time, with a bit of sweetness. The smells of the gallery are intoxicating and remind me of my days working in a hardwood lumber yard. "The black wood is 9,000 years old. The brown wood is about 7,000 years", she tells me. "I use bogwood that is found under the turf when we harvest it for fuel. Sculpting started as a hobby. It was something I picked up to keep me busy about 20 years ago," she says. Hobby? Hardly. These pieces are magnificent, and I can tell Mary has an eye for reading wood. "No two sculptures are alike. Once I sell a piece, it is gone forever. The wood guides me. I don't force a shape onto the wood," she says. The art of letting the wood tell you what it wants to be is a natural gift. 

I share Mary's appreciation of wood. I spent many years as an undergrad working my way through college. During that time, I was introduced to woodworking and have continued to dabble in the craft through the years, on a limited basis. "I finish the pieces with a wax finish that I make myself", she continues. Wax finish is my favorite. It is simple, silky smooth to the touch, smells great, and doesn’t tint the wood. However, it is not a durable or hard finish. This makes it perfect for sculptures, in my opinion. I walk through the gallery, admiring each piece, the richness of colors, and the beauty of the shapes. I love how the sculpture's shape changes as I move to a different reference point. Below is Mary Doherty standing next to her sculptures in her shop. She says she's not very photogenic, I disagree. She is lovely in pictures.

"Come, I want to show you what this wood looks like when we pull it out of the bog," she says. Out back behind her house is her wood shed. On the left is the "Black Oak," which is 9,000 years old. On the right is the "Brown Wood," which is 7,000 years old. Those white sacks are bags of coal, her new fuel source. I tell her of my experience with Frank, learning about turf harvest, and the wonderful earthy aroma turf has when it burns. She likes the fact that I am aware of Irish ways.

"Come, let me show you my workshop," Mary says. We walk around the corner, and she rolls back the corrugated metal doors to reveal a huge room with a table saw and other assorted woodworking tools (e.g., chisels, belt sanders, etc.). Wood is stacked and packed everywhere. Mary is like most woodworkers I know. She is comfortable working in a small space and clears enough room to complete her project. "My husband, Sean, comes out here and starts cleaning before he starts a project. Eight hours go by. Then it's time for him to come in, and he hasn't started his project yet," she says. We both laugh. "Here's what I do," says Mary as she proceeds to push a pile of wood away from her to clear 10 to 12 inches (30 cm) space. "That's all I need to get my projects done."

It’s been over an hour now, but before I leave Mary, she shares with me a few other sites in the area that are special to her. The high crosses and the Clonca Church. I follow her excellent directions on my way out of town. Below are the old remains of the Clonca Church. The church is a remnant from the 17th or 18th century. Across from the church is an excellent example of the high crosses in the area. The cross is about 12-15 feet (4.5 m) tall. It is only about 4-6 inches (15 cm) thick. 

I find my way to Binion Bay Campground, about 30 minutes away, not too far from Carndonagh (kar doh nah) where Mary's daughter-in-law originates. Her son and she now live in Calgary, Canada, which Mary is quite fond of. Below I catch my first sunset since coming to Ireland. A great way to end another memorable day and a spectacular afternoon with Mary!