"Come off the mountain did you?" says a local farmer as I approach the town. Started at Bunglass Point at 945 am this morning. "You made good time. "Doesn't look like it was very nice up there today", as he grins with most of his front teeth missing. No, it wasn't. I enjoyed every moment though. "That's a steep climb down," he says trying to figure out if I did come off the mountain. Yes, I was not prepared for how steep that was. Do you know where I can find the Malinbeg Hostel? "Go through the gate, then left to the crossroads. Make a right and the hostel is below the road," he says with an Irish accent so thick, that he repeats himself. I must have had a bewildered look on my face only catching every 4th word. Gate, Left, Crossroads, Below Road. Go it thanks! Have a great day!
About 5 minutes later, I arrived at my destination (picture above). Malinbeg Hostel cost per night? about 30 euros. I set my pack down on the picnic table and Frank appears from across the street where he lives. He has been operating the Hostel for about 20 years. He runs the hostel on a limited basis now since the start of Covid. I get the sense, that he's looking to do something else, but he likes to care for his regulars. The hostel is simple and plain. As we walk in, I notice a sign on the fireplace mantle "There's more to life than Facebook." I chuckle to myself, that must explain why there's no WiFi. My kind of place. I appreciate being disconnected and the modest accommodations.
The warm shower feels great after the hike today.
On the tip of the mainland, I notice the tower off in the distance. Any way I can get closer to the tower and walk there? I saw one near Bunglass Point. Frank points me the way, invites me to cross his farm, and tells me to be careful, the grass can be slippery on the other side of the fence. He looks at my boots and says you'll be fine. "Don't want you falling into the Atlantic now," he says. Florence, my taxi driver, earlier in the day informed me there are several of these towers across this part of Ireland. A defense and warning system against the French. The towers could send a signal all around the island quickly. The towers were built and fully staffed between 1804 and 1806. However, when Napoleon was defeated in 1815, the towers were abandoned. This one at Malinbeg is in excellent condition
More on the Towers
After leaving the tower, I decided to walk over to Silver Strand beach, another km or so from the hostel in the other direction. Shortly after leaving the parking area, I realize I'm on another staircase. This one winds its way down, 174 steps from the plateau, to a white sandy beach (see a much better weather day below). Again this photo doesn't quite capture how steep this staircase is.
Now for a panoramic of the beach on during my beautiful grey day!
Below, I'm taking a moment to relax for a bit, before the climb back out to the Malinbeg Hostel. When I arrive at the hostel, Frank has a fire started. A traditional coal and peat moss fire, as Irish as it gets! Frank, with a little prompting, tells me he harvests the peat every March, soon after St. Patricks Day. The "turf" as he calls it is cut then laid out to dry. It can take 2-6 months to dry turf on the hillside, depending on the weather. When dried it resembles a lightweight lump of coal about 4" x 4" x 6". Frank tells me although a traditional fuel, rules are changing and harvesting "turf" is not sustainable.
So in a few years, he suspects, they won't be allowed to harvest it any longer. He chuckles and says younger folks don't like the heavy work that comes with it either.
I like Frank
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