I want to check in with everyone, to let you know how much I appreciate the love, support, and inquiries regarding my legs. The visit to Londonderry (Derry) seems to have been an inflection point in my rehab. A good portion of my days is now spent walking without the assistance of my trekking poles. Yes, I still bring them with me in my day pack. My body tells me when it is ready to walk on its own and when it needs help. For example, the entire afternoon at Portrush was spent without the assistance of the poles. On the visit to Ballintoy, I used them most of the day. I view each day as a training opportunity. A way to challenge my body during my rehab. Sadly, I think molasses flowing uphill in the wintertime moves faster than me at the moment. It takes me around an hour to walk the 1 mi (1.6 km) from my Airbnb to the public transportation station in Coleraine. I may have shaved off a couple of minutes since my arrival into Corleraine but not much more. The best part for me is I am now able to spend quite a bit of time at each destination walking around to enjoy the site. What a great feeling it is to be able to be on the mend. I've noticed, however, that despite my stretching, several muscles in my legs are knotted up. I suspect this is undoubtedly not just from the injury but also the sheer volume of miles I have covered afoot since arriving in Ireland. To help with my recovery, I booked a deep tissue massage yesterday for when I arrive in Belfast a few days from now. A perk that I am looking forward to. Thanks to each of you for the support, positive thoughts, and prayers!
Ballintoy is a tiny village of 165 people situated along the north coast of the United Kingdom. It is well known for two things, its harbor and a rope bridge. Today, I plan to visit both. It is overcast, cold, and windy as I wait for Bus 402-The Causeway Rambler to arrive. The wind and clouds I am used to. The cold not so much. I've been blessed with good weather for most of my trip. The forecast is calling for rain. Will the rain hold off? I am not sure but the air is frigid. I am instantly overwhelmed by the pungent smell of sheep and urea when I step off the bus. The odor is super concentrated in town as the sheep only have a few pastures available to them. Subtly mixed in though, I notice the sweet earthy smell of burning turf.
First things first, lunch. I walk into a tiny pub where they have a wee fire burning. The warmth of the fire feels exceptionally nice today. The Irish build small fires, the flame never gets more than 4-6 inches (15 cm). That’s all you need to stay warm. Makes me appreciate the warmth even more. Pictured below is the wee fire that is burning turf logs.
Across from me at another table sits an older gentleman. He has lived in Ballintoy for 14 years he tells me. We carry on a conversation about travels, and Florida. The Irish love Florida! We talk about how warm, open, and easy it is to talk with the Irish. We both agree it is not common in other countries. "Walkin' are you?" says the old man. I continue loading my day pack onto my back. "A coastal trail goes along the cliffs from the rope bridge to the harbor. Most people don't know about it. You should check it out" he says. Where can I find the trail? "At the end of the parking lot where the rope bridge is located. It will take you right to the white church across from the harbor" he says. I suspect it will save me at least 2 miles of walking today, which I appreciate. I bet it is flatter too. I thank him for the information as I head out the door.
I have gotten into the habit of being patient with my conversations. I frequently think to myself when a conversation starts, what piece of information does this person have for me today? I remember a book I once read,
The Celestine Prophecy, claims that the reason you cross paths with people is they have information for you. You have to make time to receive this information. I wonder, how many times I did not allow myself the time to receive these gifts back in the States? It also works the other way. Sometimes I have information that is useful to someone else. These days it is usually another traveler. When I am patient and genuine with our interaction, they eventually reveal what they need from me.
I follow the pavement for a mile (1.6 km) before arriving at the visitor's center. From here I walk another 0.5 mi (0.8 km) along the cliffs to Carrick-a-rede (carrick-a-reedy) rope bridge. The photo below is looking east as I approach the rope bridge. The bridge was built in support of one of the most productive salmon fisheries in Ireland. It is now one of the iconic tourist destinations on the north coast. The bridge is hidden from this angle.
This view looks towards the visitor's center along the beautiful white cliffs.
Following a steep descent to the crossing point, I wait in line before climbing down a steep set of metal stairs to cross the bridge. The stairs are almost more daunting than the bridge crossing. The bridge has a wooden plank walkway supported by two cables. A rope is then used for the rest of the bridge. The bridge is 66 ft (20 m) long and suspended 100 ft (30 m) above the water. You can read about the fascinating history of
Carrick-a-rede and see what the bridge used to look like.
Once across, I spend a few minutes watching the adult Fulmars, Kittiwakes, and Guillemots battle the uplifts to feed their young on the cliff face. In the photo below, there are white spots, those are juvenile birds. They are all over the cliff!
This Fulmar spent about 5 minutes navigating the wind. It tries several different routes to get down to its young. Tail up, feet down, and wings cupped, it takes everything the bird can do to drop just a few feet down the cliff. A few times, it came within a couple feet of me. It was fun to watch it hover as it battled the wind. Eventually, it made it down safely.
After leaving the cliff with the birds, the trail wraps around the other side of the island. Just past a long stairway down to the salmon fishery, I notice three Lion's Mane Jellyfish, an Oystercatcher, as well a couple of seals (not sure on species) below me. Ireland has two seals, the grey seal, and the common seal. All I can see is their heads bobbing in and out of the water, making it difficult to identify which species.
Below is the view from the other side facing the steep metal staircase. It costs 13 quids to cross the bridge. The wildlife I saw was well worth the expense and the view are quite stunning too! Crossing the bridge is an experience. The bridge sways in the wind and bobs up and down with every step. The wind funnels through the chasm, which increases the speed, making it a challenge to cross. On really windy days, the bridge is closed for safety.
The wee village of Ballintoy is visible in the distance in the photo below taken along the coastal trail.
The segment of the trail I hike today is formally part of the Ulster Way, which overlaps with the International Appalachian Trail. Although walking the miles in the wrong direction, it feels good to add more miles of the trail under my belt. Though I am banged up, I look for every opportunity to tie back to the IAT when I can.
Upon reaching the white church, I turn north to descend to the harbor. Below is a picture of Ballintoy harbor. This site was a filming location for HBO’s Game of Thrones, where Theon of Greyjoy returns to the Iron Islands and meets his sister Yara.
The north coast of Northern Ireland is home to several locations where the HBO series Game of Thrones was filmed. You can plan a trip around visiting these iconic
Game of Thrones Sites. Ballintoy harbor and cliffs around Carrick-a-rede are the first ones on my travels. Diehard Game of Thrones fans can challenge themselves further with the
Journey of the Doors. Several beech trees fell over at the Dark Hedges after a storm. Ten themed doors detailing iconic moments from the HBO series were created from the fallen trees. The doors were then scattered across pubs and historic sites across Ireland. An adventure awaits those that seek these beautifully carved doors. Door number 6-House Targaryen is located at the pub across from where I had lunch in Ballintoy.
I enjoyed the day and logged quite a few more miles than I was expecting. By the time I get home sometime after 9 pm, I am worn out from the walking. I am pleased with what I was able to accomplish today. How sore will I be in the morning?
Below is a photo I took on my way back from the harbor. One of the beautiful things about being on foot is pausing for opportunities that present themselves.
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