Belfast (Northern Ireland; 1 of 2) | The Dark Side of Belfast - Day 29

After breakfast, I make my way towards Queen's University just east of the hostel. Queen's University is a fantastic building. The contrast of the yellow corners against the red stone is stunning. Queen's University was established in 1845 by Queen Victoria through a royal charter. They recently celebrated 175 years in November of 2020. Below is the main hall of Queens University. Graduation is this week and people are lined up in their gowns outside the fence with their families this morning. All waiting for their cue to proceed through the university's gates.

I spend the morning wandering through the streets, enjoying the morning air. It is warmer today, even though it is overcast. The temperature is predicted to reach 70 F (21 C). I take a moment to ponder my upcoming trip to Carcassone, France, where it will be 95+ (37+ F). What a strange feeling that will be. I enjoy the Irish weather. I do miss the sun and the stars, however.

I am excited about the tour today. Conflicting Stories is a 3-hour walking tour that dives deep into the dark side of Belfast. The period of Irish history between 1969 and 1998, is known as "The Troubles". The tour is divided into two segments. Each half is led by a person representing the views of either the Nationalists/Catholics/IRA or the Loyalists/Protestants/UVF. Of note is that both tour guides were also imprisoned during the Troubles. I find myself captivated by this sad and difficult time in Irish history. The further I delve into it, the more parallels I draw to past and current difficulties in the US and Canada.

Gemma and I head out of the hostel around 10 minutes till 2 pm. Forty minutes should be sufficient to cover the 1.3 mi to the Divis Tower, the meeting spot for the tour, in West Belfast. The walk over is brisk compared to my pace the last few days. I can tell Gemma is holding back to help me out. "How are your legs?" she says. I let her know that I feel good. The pace is alright so far. I need to challenge myself during my rehab. I will let you know if I need to slow down. We pass along a neighborhood where the bottom of every pole is painted red, white, and blue. This is a notice that we have entered a Loyalist part of Belfast. Gemma and I discuss how just a few days ago we both would have overlooked this.

When we arrive, a group of twenty or so people is gathered on the corner of the Divis Tower on Falls Road. Robert, our first tour guide, is the older man in the black polo shirt in the photo below. "I am a member of the IRA. When I turned 18, I was imprisoned for 20 years for being associated with the IRA." begins Robert. During the next 15 minutes, Robert gives us background on how the conflict between the two socio-political groups began. "The British were given a choice back in the 1920s to have all 10 counties in Northern Ireland be part of the UK, including County Donegal, This would have resulted in a 50/50 split between Protestants and Catholics. They refused and cut out four of the counties. They kept only 6. This assured the Loyalists an overwhelming majority of 66% as well as the ability to set up and more importantly control the government. After 40 years of oppression, not being able to work or vote. The Irish people saw the civil rights movement of the 60s in America on TV. This resonated with Irish people like my grandfather and parents. They decided to organize peaceful protests. The goal has ALWAYS been equality and voting rights for all citizens of Northern Ireland. This was never about Protestants vs Catholics" continues Robert.

He points to the side of the Divis Tower. "See that mural. Hugh McCabe and Patrick Rooney were the first two casualties of the Troubles. They were murdered by Royal Ulster Constable (RUC) in the middle of the night. The RUC fired from the road into the Divis Flats." says Robert matter a factly. 

The flats was an area similar to most low-income housing projects in the US. Catholics were forced to live in the flats, which were overcrowded as they were discriminated against and often prevented from holding jobs as well as voting. The flats were eventually demolished in 1994, however you can see several pictures if you click on the smaller icons below the photo of the Divis Flats photo. Notice the contrast with the Protestant area north of the Divis Tower.

The RUC was the police force that was created by the Loyalists in Northern Ireland in 1921. "What are police forces supposed to do in communities?" asks Robert. "Protect and serve communities. The RUC was biased. Only made up of Loyalists. They were frequently the aggressors," he continues.  Robert's storytelling approach feels personal, genuine, and non-accusatory. The points he makes appear to be supported by photos in his binder, and the evidence we see in the surrounding community. 

We walk further down Falls Street and stop in front of an Irish school. "See the holes in the side of the building?" as he points to several deep bullet wounds in the brick. "The RUC fired on the St. Comgalls School," he says. You can read more about the events in 1969 presented by Robert. The article also shows the armored Shortland vehicle that the RUC used. I imagine how I might respond if police forces  used these vehicles in the the US or Canada? Robert also showed pictures of these during the tour. "We were poorly armed and had no recourse against the RUC" he continues on. "The IRA only became better armed later in the conflict when we started receiving firearms and weapons from the United States," he tells the group. I am reminded of how the US has frequently used this strategy in other areas of conflict. A clear example of how a technical fix (i.e., provision of a tool for a short-term solution) cannot solve an adaptive challenge (i.e., problem requires understanding to develop long-term solutions). Yet, to this dya the US continues to utilize this strategy as a major part of its foreign policy.  

Gemma and I have the opportunity to discuss the details in between each stop. We help each other digest what we have heard, challenge each other's understanding, and fill in the missing pieces when needed. This is a long and heavy tour. There is a lot of information to process. Walking between stops is a gift. It allows me to stay focused while reflecting on the details. I appreciate having Gemma as a resource today. 

We continue down Falls Road to one of the most iconic areas of West Belfast, the Peace Wall. "Kids used to play together regardless of religion or which side of the road the lived on. As the conflict erupted, Catholics retreated south of Falls Road. While Protestants moved north. Initially, we built a barricade out of whatever we could find to protect ourselves. Eventually, the British Miliatary replaced  the barricade with the permanent Peace Wall to separate the communities." says Robert. Today there are 12 gates that serve as access points into Protestant areas across Belfast. The gates close nightly at 630 pm and don't reopen until 630 am. "Even emergency vehicles, ambulances, cannot get through once the gates close. They have to go all the way to City Center, then come back. A 40-minute detour" he continues. Almost on cue, an Ambulance with sirens as well as lights appears out of nowhere. It screams past our tour, emphasizing Robert's point that time is of the essence during medical emergencies. In the photo below, you can see on the right side of the street, one of the metal gates that closes nightly. This one is less imposing than others we see on the tour. Imagine for a moment, how you might feel when these gates closed depending on which side you lived on. 

Nowadays, Robert is leading an effort to change this trend by working to increase the length of time the gates stay open between communities. When first installed the gates closed at 9 pm. As the conflict intensified, that has been cut down to 630 pm. Robert reminds us that what seems like a very small and minor step is rather difficult to accomplish these days. The Peace Wall is a constant reminder that these communities have little tolerance for each other and that much work needs to be done. Robert makes a small and profound statement "You can't make peace with your friends. Peace is derived from developing a relationship with your enemy." Several other communities also have peace walls around Belfast. North Belfast is another area that remains in constant conflict.

A few of the murals painted along the Peace Wall. Robert points out that there are many places where the communities differ. Nationalist have always been sympathetic to the Palistinian cause, by contrast  the Loyalists side with Isrealites. You can see this in the third mural below.

We walk a bit further down the road where we can see the Bobby Sands mural. "Bobby was my friend. We were in prison together. We both spent three years in solitary confinement." says Robert. "Bobby was the leader of the IRA and helped orchestrate what has been called a watershed moment in our struggle to unify Ireland, The Hunger Strikes," Robert shares with the group. Bobby Sands eventually died in prison as a result of the hunger strike. Before his passing and while still incarerated, he was elected to be a Member of Parliament. Notice the MP after Bobby Sands in the mural below, a reference to his election victory. "After all these struggles, the policatal party Sinn Fien which grew out of this struggle is now the largest political party in Northern Ireland." says Robert. There appears to be a distinct separation to Sinn Fien and the IRA when presented by Robert.

Robert takes us a Catholic church where the secret talks pertaining to the Good Friday Agreement were held. "Bill Clinton was instrumental in getting this agreement done. He insisted that the IRA have a seat at the table," says Robert as he shows a picture of Bill Clinton in the courtyard shaking hands with those that attended.

We resume our walk, turn the corner and are reminded of the Peace Wall's constant presence. In the photo below the Peace Wall resembles a baseball field from this side. It has three different segments, a concrete base wall, then a corrugated metal green section, followed by another section that is chain link. Notice the Divis Tower adjacent to the wall in the background.

We arrive into Robert's neighborhood, where he and his father currently live, Bombay Street. Sixty homes were set a blaze by a Loyalist mob protected by the RUC in 1969. A mural with the phrase Bombay Street Never Again is the only reminder that this tragic event ever happened in this neighborhood. "Isn't it time we take the wall down?" someone asks from the group. "You can't simply take the wall down. Look at how people have modified their houses that live in proximity to the wall. We have much work to do. We need to understand both sides, their fears, concerns, and desires." answers Robert. A reminder that taking the wall down is intrinsically tied to bridging the socio-political gap between these two communities, an Adaptive Challenge that cannot be resolved simply by demolishing the wall. "The wall will come down when people on both sides are ready. In the meantime I am working to help my community understand the Loyalist point of view," somberly states Robert. 

Robert leads us to the agreed upon transition point, Checkpoint Charlie, where he plans to hand us over to a Loyalist tour guide. The three gates at Checkpoint Charlie look very imposing. Constructed of steel plates. Once closed a person can no longer see the other side.

Robert's version of the story feels personal and allows me to empathize with him. Inspite of the empathy and sadness I am feeling, I notice that the story feels incomplete. I can't wait to see what is in store for us on the otherside.