Carcassonne (France; 2 of 2) | La Cité - Day 40

During the hot part of the day, I retire to my Airbnb these days. I do miss the Irish weather. I use the time to work on my posts and research where I want to go next. Then, around 5 pm, I head out again. This allows me to take advantage of the fact that the sun is lower in the sky. This creates plenty of shade and makes navigating the city more enjoyable. It also allows me to take better photographs.

The larger town of Carcassonne is home to 48,825 people with a density of about 1/5th that of Nice or Marseille (720 per sq. km [1,900 per sq mi]. Carcassonne is part of the Occitanie Region of France. Away from the coast, the Occitanie Region historically was the center of major trade routes between the Atlantic and Mediterranean Coasts, as well as between northern France (Gaul) and Spain. The ancient city of Carcassonne, which sits atop a hill on the east side of River Aude, was at the center of it all and highly coveted for its location. This is my focus today.

The city's location has been strategic to people as far back as 3500 BC. The Roman Empire controlled the area for nearly 1,000 years before it was called Carcasonne. The Romans valued this location because they could control trade in the region. The great double-walled city was built on top of the hill in the Middle Ages. Below is a photo showing the west side of Carcassone. It is taken from across the River Aude. Notice the blue witches' hats that sit atop the towers.

Carcassonne was designated as UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997. To be selected as a UNESCO site, "the location must be of outstanding universal value, demonstrating international significance; it must transcend national boundaries and be of common importance for present and future generations of all humanity." 

Here you can see the double-wall construction of La Cité, as it is called. This is to differentiate it from the larger town of Carcassonne. 

Carcassonne was controlled by Viscount Raimond Roger in 1209. The powerful lords that commanded La Cité, were recognized as an independent state and allowed to form alliances with Barcelona and France. They frequently played both sides to suit their needs. During this period, Carcassonne has become very tolerant. Catholics and Cathars lived side-by-side, sometimes under the same roofs. As a result, a religious and military Crusade was launched in July of 1209, and the city fell 15 days later when the viscount was poisoned in his own castle.

Cathars were a Christian group that believed in dualistic Gods. The new Testament represented a Good God that created the spiritual realm, while the Old Testament was associated with the Evil God that created the physical world. The Evil God was referred to by the Cathars as Satan or the Father of Satan. Cathars also treated women as equals and provided leadership opportunities for women. This, of course, was unacceptable to the Catholic Church. It challenged their idea of monotheism and provided opportunities for women, which were strictly forbidden in Catholic regimes.

In 1226, King Louis XVIII of France incorporated La Cité into the lower realm of France. The citizens of Carcassonne have been loyal to France ever since. The second exterior wall was built around 1247 when the city was reinforced by the monarchy.

Inside the first wall through the east gate, Port Narbonnaise. The right wall is undergoing restoration. When the exterior wall was built, they forced all the villagers to relocate across the River Aude. All the homes and buildings were burned to make room for the new wall. 

The east gate, Port Narbonaise. The east gate was the most heavily defended part of the city. Consequently, it was the most accessible to enemies.

The northeast corner of the city. Notice all the vertical slits in the wall. These are defense positions where archers armed with crossbows could fire from. The Port Narbonnaise can be seen in the far left of the picture.

View from the west wall. Notice the defense vertical portholes on multiple levels.

The west gate. This access point was easily defended. It had 5 huge wooden doors that an enemy had to breach while sustaining artillery fire from above them. The inner castle is visible just past the gate and recognized by the square tower.

The inner castle. Yet a third wall protects the commander of the city. At the time of the crusades, the stone bridge did not exist. Instead, it was constructed of wooden planks, which could be set ablaze to protect the castle. Crossbows are the primary defense weapon of soldiers during the Middle Ages.

The inside of La Cité is terrific and alive with modern-day shops and restaurants. Not what I expected at all. It would be an excellent place to hold a Renaissance Fair. Looking back at Port Narbonnaise as people walk in and out of La Cité.

One of the central courtyards where many restaurants are located.

I opt for this little shady courtyard for dinner. 

I remember Nicolas telling me that this region is famous for a special peasant dish, Le Cassoulet. Cassoulet means roughly casserole. Traditional Cassoulet is a rich, thick white bean stock with pork sausage and duck thighs. With a bottle of Rosé wine, this meal is fantastic! Nicolas was right; it is very hearty and steaming hot in this terra cotta bowl. 

On my way back, I take one last look at La Cité.

The more time I spend in Carcassone, the more I enjoy it. These smaller towns with great history from the Middle Ages is what makes southern France so appealing to me.