I am surprised when I wake. I feel even better than the previous morning. I test my right leg, not knowing what to expect and not totally trusting it. I put my weight on it. Ok. Things are tight and not nearly as sore as I was expecting. A win in my book.
My agenda today is another one of those iconic sites in Northern Ireland. One that every bus tour stops at. Fortunately, tourist traffic is light this year, plus I'll be there late in the afternoon. I've taken to appreciate the long days and the Irish schedule. I seldom leave for any activities before 11 am. There's more than enough daylight in the day. No need to rush. Today, the late start allows me to bypass the morning rain too. Sometime after 12 pm, I board The Causeway Rambler. Today's destination is the town of Bushmills. My destination for lunch. Bushmills is famous for the Old Bushmills Distillery that started distilling Irish Whiskey in 1608. I know the causeway will take some time, so I pass on the distillery tour.
I spend some time walking up and down Main Street. As I pass a shoe store, an old tattered sign hangs outside the shop. Refer to the picture below. The sign reads McCandless with an old pair of worn-out boots below it. Immediately, I am reminded of Alexander Supertramp (a.k.a. Christopher McCandless). I was at Humboldt State University in California working on my undergraduate degree in Wildlife Management when I read Into the Wild by John Krakauer in my sociology class. Christopher McCandless was a trust fund kid from the east coast of the United States. He gave up all he had to live in the Alaskan bush. During his travels, he renames himself Alexander Supertramp and finds an old bus to live in Alaska. I won't spoil the story for those who don't know it. It is a good read, the movie is pretty entertaining, and the soundtrack by Eddie Vedder is fantastic. While reading the book in 1995, I remember that I could not quite understand the conditions that would lead someone with everything at their fingertips to give it all up. I smile nowadays when I think of Christopher McCandless and could not pass up this picture that reminds me of him.
Now well after 3 pm, I jump back onto the Causeway Rambler. After a short ride, I walk up to the visitor's center. It is closed. It closes at 4 pm on Sundays. Good news! I don't need to enter the visitor's center to walk the trails down to the site. I decide on the slightly longer and more scenic Red Trail. I'll take the Blue Trail on the way back.
Although more scenic, the Red Trail is also longer. The Giant's Causeway is located below, where the road ends in the picture. To access the causeway, I need to hike along the ridge to the next valley and then down. The road is the Blue Trail. I will be taking it on the way back. The Giant's Causeway was formed by an ancient volcanic eruption. As you see in the pictures below, 40,000 interlocking basalt columns comprise the causeway.
Notice the trail that winds the way down the cliff. I am standing at the bottom of some 170-step rock staircase. A young kid from Kansas did me the favor of counting each step as he followed behind me.
On the way down, I pass the magnificent Organ Pipes. By taking the red trail, this is the first site I arrive at. These hexagonal columns are enormous and look like an organ against the cliff.
I am thrilled! This was one of the sites I was hoping to see. Arriving on the Red Trail proves to be a blessing. Looking at it from the Blue Trail, it would be hard to pick out. It looks like a wavy rock. From this angle, it looks fantastic! I notice most people simply walk by it without notice of the feature. If you take the Blue Trail, continue east past the causeway another 1,000 ft (300 m), and look for a little trail that heads north into the rocks. The shoe will be easier to see once you get further east.
Close up of the basalt columns. The columns look like stacked coins.
On the way out, I pass what looks like the Giant's fingertip and his crumbled hand.
I look out across the bay. There he is, Humphrey! He is sleeping at the edge of the water.
Upon my arrival at my Airbnb, I am greeted by a young lady who speaks with a strong french accent. She is trying to tell me that my son that is upstairs is being very loud!" I laugh. I don't have a son. "Vous parler Francais?" French accents are easy to pick out for me. I watch her eyes light up. I can feel her relief now that she doesn't have to rely on English to communicate. I am enjoying the conversation with Solange, who is from Belgium. It allows me to practice my French before going to Nice, France. I agree with her. Dexter, who is not my son, talks very loud when playing with his toys upstairs. I show her pictures of the Giant's Causeway and Ballintoy. Discuss bus routes and the hikes. Solange and her friend, after visiting the causeway, plan to hike to Ballintoy and cross the rope bridge. Hiking that distance along the Ulster Way (a.k.a. IAT) will take them approximately 3 hours. That is what her phone app tells them anyway. I wish them good luck and call it a night.
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