With each passing day, I am feeling slightly better. I still have lingering pain on the inside of my leg just below my right knee. I do what I can not to aggravate it during the day. Some moments are much harder than others. I remind myself it is part of the recovery process. I do alright, as long as I take my time. Physically, I am trending the right way, and this is what matters most.
The morning is relatively uneventful. Before heading to Derry Airport, I drop off my pack at my next Airbnb in Colerain. At least this way, I can leave it behind and not carry it while walking in Derry. Conversation with Marty last night refueled my interest in exploring the city and I am excited about today. I remember being drawn to the city as if it had a story to tell me when I was there last. I did not have it in me to walk anywhere the last time I was here. Today, the past feels like it never happened. I start with a visit to the beautiful Guildhall.
The building is even more stunning than I remember. The architecture, the red sandstone blocks, and the copper top are so beautiful to look at. It is one of the tallest buildings in the area. I remember how it first caught my attention stepping out of the bus center. Out front of the Guidhall is a series of water fountains that alternate like those at the Bellagio Hotel in Las Vegas, Nevada. Although these are not choreographed to music and only reach heights of 4-6 feet (1.5 m). I feel this building has more to reveal, so I make my way inside.
As I walk into the first room of the exhibit, several stunning stained glass windows immediately capture my attention. The building is covered with them. Most are reproductions since the originals were damaged through the years due to bombings and rain events. Stunning to see nevertheless.
The Guildhall also was the site where the Bloody Sunday Saville Report was released in 2010. More on that later.
The Guildhall also was the site where the Bloody Sunday Saville Report was released in 2010. More on that later.
On the second floor, sits a MASSIVE organ! It is comprised of over 3,100 pipes. Today the giant organ is covered in pink light. The pipes range in size from 16 feet (4.8 m) to less than 1/2 in (1.2 cm). It consumes the entire front wall on an elevated platform. I bet it sounds amazing!
Stained glass windows decorate the staircase.
I leave the Guildhall and head for Ferryquay Gate, which is near the top of the southern wall, to catch up with a walking tour that starts in 20 min. I start my journey uphill through the heart of the city. I cross the huge gate, now just an arch in the wall, and leave the city. On the opposite corner stands Pat, our tour guide for today, who is wearing an easy-to-spot bright yellow jacket.
The Wall was built between 1613-1619 to protect the Scotts and English settlers that came to Ireland under the Plantation of Ireland organized by King James I. The previous attempts to settle the area were destroyed by Chieftain O'Doherty. "This city is one of the best examples of a walled city in all of Europe, it has never fallen", says Pat. We cross back under the arch at Ferryquay Gate, "Congratulations! You have done what King James II could not do!" says Pat. The city was under 105-day siege by King James II, a catholic English King, who was ousted by Queen Mary II and King William III, both Protestants. Notably, this period is seen as a pivotal moment between Catholics and Protestants. A wound that still has a lot of healing left to do and is the source of the political and cultural divide within the city.
Protestants (Unionists, Loyalists) and Catholics (Republicans, Nationalists) each call the city different names. Protestants use the new name it was given when the Plantation movement started - Londonderry. Catholics use the original name of the city - Derry. To this day there are no Catholic Churches within the Wall, despite Catholics being the majority in the city. Protestants manipulated the political system in the city to keep the minority in power. This division continues today and is the foundation for the "Troubles" period that began in the late 1960s. Many compare the Troubles period in Northern Ireland, although significantly more violent, to the American Civil Rights Movement which predated the start of the Troubles by about a decade. This city has a fascinating as well as difficult past, I encourage you to read more about it here Londonderry (Derry).
Twenty-four of the original 100+ cannons are still present on the Wall. These two defend the southernmost corner of the Walled City, across from a magnificent Protestant Church. 
St. Columbus Cathedral sits atop the highest point within the city. A lovely building.
Just outside the wall, along the southern border, we pass a black sign with white letters. "That sign, Londonderry West Bank Loyalist Still Under Siege - No Surrender, sits across from a ceremonial bonfire yard. Notice the Red, White, and Blue painted on the flagpole, a warning that this area is loyal to the Crown." On July 11th, Protestants will light about 250 bonfires around the city and throughout Northern Ireland. The fires are intended to commemorate the victory of King William II over King James II in the 1690s. The tradition remains very controversial to this day due to the dangers associated with large bonfires as well as political and cultural issues tied to the ceremony.
"This western side of the city is known as the Bogside," Pat says as he points to all the houses. The Bogside is predominantly Catholic and the site for what would become tragically known as "Bloody Sunday" in 1972. Bloody Sunday is a sad story that parallels the recent abuse of power by police forces in the US. The first inquiry, which lasted 10 weeks, absolved the British Soldiers of wrongdoing. The second investigation, which lasted 12 years, condemned the actions of British Soldiers. However, to this day, some 50 years later, not a single soldier's name has been released and no one has been indicted on any criminal charges. The link above also covers events of Bloody Sunday. The photo below overlooks the Bogside outside of the wall.
A view along the Grand Parade from the walkway on top of the wall. It is easy to understand why it is so popular.
A view along Shipquay Gate looking uphill at The Diamond, center of town.
Once the tour concludes, someone asks Pat, "Londonderry or Derry?" Pat answers "It is my city and I call it Legen-Derry!" I thank Pat for the great tour and head outside the city walls. As I stroll down the hill along Shipquay Street, I notice the town is buzzing with activity. It's close to dinner time. Women in dresses and high heels dominate the street. I'm impressed they can walk in those shoes on these steep hills. There is a cacophony exploding from the nearby pub, laughter, and loud discussions. It sounds just like the recording yesterday. I smile as I pass by heading for Paeder O'Donnnels, a great little Irish pub that Marty told me about the other day, for an ice-cold Guinness.
After dinner, I head for the train station. The train station is located across the River Foyle on the other side of the Peace Bridge. The bridge is a pedestrian traffic-only bridge that connects both sides of the river. It was built with the intent to improve relations between the Loyalists of the West Bank and the Nationalists of the East Bank of River Foyle.
I made it through the afternoon and walked the entire wall without too much trouble. I've learned to side-step stairs to eliminate the pressure on the front of my leg. This and the switchbacking I do now on descents has made it possible for me to walk the entire wall. I'm on the mend! I really like this town, one of my favorites thus far.
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