My basecamp for the next 5 nights is an Airbnb in Coleraine. "Coleraine is not good!" Daniel and Marty at the Tower Bar tell me. My new acquaintances even balk at the thought of recommending a pub in town. They were right. The town is unlike other towns I've been to thus far. It does offer one advantage, it is centrally located, which suits me fine. I plan to take day trips to explore the northern coast of the UK via public transportation while leaving my big pack behind during my stay here. Since leaving the States, a comfortable bed at night is all I need, well, that and a warm shower. Ha!
Portrush is my destination for this afternoon. Located on a tiny peninsula in the northern part of the United Kingdom, the resort town has a modern county fair crossed with a beach vibe. As if the carnival has permanently crashed your local beach town. It sounds and feels odd to describe it this way. You have to be here to experience it for yourself. As I stroll down Main Street, I am half expecting someone to yell at me. "Step Right Up, only cost you 3 quids to win a prize!" The arcades have big multi-colored neon signs inside. Outside the souvenir shops are bright-colored balloons and T-shirts. Casinos and surf shops also line the walkway. I like being surprised. I sorta digging the vibe of this tiny town of about 6,000 people. Portrush has 3 Blue Fag beaches (Strands), only 8 exist in Ireland. It is entirely different than any other Irish town. Below is the view from the TransLink train station.
Below is the view looking west from the convergence point of the major streets (i.e., Kent, Mark, and Main Streets). Tourist season is light this year. Most towns, like Portrush, are craving interaction as well as income.
Portrush is most recently known for hosting The Open in 2019. Royal Portrush Golf Course was the site of The Open, a.k.a British Open. This is the oldest golf tournament, dating back to the 1860s. This course, which opened in 1888 has stiff winds, rain, rockhard playing surfaces, and knee-high rough that made some of the best golfers in the world swear they would never play here again. Royal Portrush is a links-style course situated just southeast of town on the bluff. Links-style golf requires a totally different style of play, requiring the golfer to play low to the ground and be accurate. You can click through the
Royal Portrush Golf Course hole descriptions and see the difficulty of this course for yourself. It is hard to imagine that 247,000 descended on this tiny town to watch the event in 2019. Portrush will host The Open again in 2025.
Looking southeast across the bay towards Royal Portrush Golf Course. The course is situated on the bluff behind the restaurant in the white building.
Halfway down Main Street, I pass this old Church of Ireland. I love the details in the windows, the contrast of the wooden doors, and the square top. It is as if the church is wearing a simple crown. Notice the corners of the exterior buildings. This feature of highlighting corners of buildings with alternating bricks of different colors is an architectural design that extends to Irish homes throughout most of Ireland. This is one of my favorite churches thus far.
A couple of Herring Gulls, waiting for their opportunities at someone's Fish 'N Chips. Notice the pink legs on the gulls. Looking southeast towards the golf course.
I reach the northernmost point of Ramore Head, a few hundred feet past the gulls, where I take a few minutes to admire the view of Rathlin Island. The island is visible along the horizon northeast of Portrush. While making my way back up Main Street, I pass a vacant building. I imagine myself fixing it up to open a Bed 'N Breakfast or an Airbnb. I sure enjoy the coast. Though the thought is intriguing, I decide to park it for now. There are many more coastlines to explore.
After dinner, I head to the Atlantic Bar, recommended by Julie Clyde, and order that Guinness she recommended. The pub is quiet this time of night. Only a handful of patrons sit scattered in the pub. I grab my pint, find a wee round table, and sit. I reflect on the wonderful and amazing things I've seen so far. The jukebox starts playing songs. Although I am not familiar with most of them, I am enjoying the selections. Remember Irish folks are "All over the Shoe" with their American music choices. One song, in particular, draws me in. Tennesee Whiskey by Chris Stapleton. I've never heard the song before. The slow soulful, steady rhythm, captivates me. I start singing along to myself, "as smooth as Tennesee whiskey...as sweet as strawberry wine...as warm as a glass of brandy." There may as well not be anyone else in the pub right now. I get lost in the song...
I recall passing a wonderful ice cream shop on Main Street. There were all sorts of amazing colors, bright pinks, yellows, blues, purples, etc. which diverted my attention. The ice cream was styled like marshmallow fluff. It looked fantastic! Once inside, the bin that contains the pink with blue swirl marked "Unicorn" catches my eye. What is more magical than eating Unicorn flavored ice cream in Ireland? No, I checked. They don't make Fairy Dust ice cream! Ha! "Unicorn is sweet. I would pair it with vanilla since you get two scoops of ice cream" says the gal behind the counter. Done, with a sugar cone, please. Wow! That is good! The ice cream in Ireland tastes like it looks. Creamy, light, and fluffy, a real treat. I take my time as I walk back to the train station. Irish ice cream is not nearly as sweet as American ice cream. I would have eaten two scoops of that delightful Unicorn!
Stepping off the train in Coleraine, an Irish man turns to me, "Do we need to crossover to catch the Belfast train?" Yes, you need to get to terminal 1. I made that mistake earlier this afternoon. I missed my train. "I'm from here, and I am asking a foreigner how to navigate the trains" we both laugh. As we crossover the trains on the walkway, we continue our conversation. "We love Donegal. We have a wee cottage on the west side. My name is Chris. This is Rhonda." A pleasure to meet you both. I am Martin. "You have to go see Ballintoy and the harbor. Go see the Ballintoy harbor," says Rhonda. She is excited to pass on the tip. Very well, tomorrow is Ballintoy. We shake hands as they board their train to Belfast.
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