After packing my tent, I begin the drive to the western part of County Tyrone. I am feeling good this morning, I can handle a bit of walking today. A good day to visit the Ulster American Folk Park. I've had no less than half a dozen people suggest I visit the park since I arrived in Ireland. Today is my day. A quick aside, the Park also offers a separate service for those looking to tap into their Irish roots. They have a HUGE archive and are willing to help people trace their origins in Ireland.
I haven't had breakfast yet and it's getting to be late in the morning. Sometime after 1130 am, I pass a hotel with a restaurant. O'Brien's looks open so I pull in. I grab my laptop hoping to get a little typing done while I eat breakfast. I begin typing away. The bartender brings me a pot of tea with my waffles. I don't need milk, just a wee bit of sugar with my tea. "Ah, you'd get along great at Lough Derg", he says. "The only thing you can get there is toast and black tea. Look it up", he smiles. Lough Derg is a historic pilgrimage site located on an island in the center of Lough Derg. Damn it, I just came from over that way! The site is beautiful and offers 1-day or 3-day pilgrimages, during which only black tea and toast are served. I tell him of my trip to Doon. He's been there too. A special place for him and his family. Another two pots of tea later, I pay my bill and thank him for the great conversation. “Be sure to add Lough Derg to your bucket list”, he tells me as I head out the door.
The Ulster American Folk Park is only one mile (1.6 km) down the road. The sky is cloudy, which is the case most days this year in Ireland. No sign of rain yet. Outside of the entrance is a sculpture honoring the International Appalachian Trail (below) and a brief interpretive sign about the trail.
The journey in the Park begins in Ireland around the time of the potato famine. The entire journey is approximately 2 miles long and follows the immigration of Irish people to the New World in America. On-site, they have relocated many buildings from Ireland, stone by stone. They have done the same on the New World side. Several original buildings, have been disassembled from Virginia as well as Pennsylvania, then reassembled here at the Park.
The first building I come to is a traditional cottage that is burning turf. The tiny stone building has a traditional thatch roof and was used in the early 1900s. A lovely earthy smell billows out of the cottage. That will always stick with me, such a fragrant beautiful smoky aroma. Inside, I find the local owner who shares his story about the difficulties associated with the famine. The average person consumes 14 lbs (6.3 kg) of potatoes daily and little else. Very little dietary diversity existed in the 1700s of Ireland. This is why the Blythe and following famine is so devastating. The population drops by half to just around 4 M, as a result of starvation or immigration during that time. The population of Ireland today, is still some 500,000 people below the mark of 8+ M people in the 1700s.
I progress through the park, enjoying my interactions with various characters and their buildings, church, homes, etc. each having a unique story and a distinct aroma. I’m captivated by how authentic my experience is here. I stop in at the school, where a lady is sitting at the front of the classroom where some 70 kids would have been present. Dressed in period clothing she begins, "National schools were very important and the first time in Ireland where the poor and rich kids had access to the same education standards". She pulls out a slate board. "Each child was given one of these. They used a slate stick to practice their math and writing. Then the teacher would tell wipe it clean, using their hands like this," she says. This is where the saying wipe “your slate clean” originates from. We begin to chat about my travels. "You have done a fair bit, a car hire was a good move. Are you into archeology?", she says. I pause before answering. I have never given this much thought before. I do rather enjoy connecting with the ancient past. Maybe there's something I need to follow up on here. I respond, never thought about it like that, I do enjoy it though.
Near the middle of my journey, I leave the small Irish villages and arrive at the Main Street of the large port town. Ah, the transition point to the New World. There are several shops to visit. I walk into the pub. The place is alive with conversations, laughing and music can be heard. I can smell the aroma of the wood bar, smoke, and whiskey. I am transported back in time. I feel like I am in the middle of it. I look around, the entire bar is vacant. Amazing, The music and conversations are simply a recording.
I walk to the end of the street and enter the port where there is a large ship waiting to take me to the new world. The air smells damp and salty, I can hear several gulls overhead. "Are you sure you want to make this journey?", the older lady asks. I have nothing to lose, how long is the journey? "Thirteen weeks. You'll stay below deck unless you are invited to the upper deck for maybe 10 minutes. The quarters are cramped and you'll be sharing a bed pan with 8 other people," she tells me. Not sure I like the sound of that, what other options do I have? I already have purchased my ticket. "The journey is so difficult and expensive that although few find the prosperity they seek in the New World, most do not want to or can't afford to make the journey back to Ireland", she says.
I land in Baltimore. Most Irish that immigrated landed in various port towns in The New World along the east coast. I walk into the local mercantile shop. The abundance of food, tools, and supplies is almost overwhelming. I see pumpkins, corn, lima beans, post office, and tools I need to get started farming. I now understand why America was perceived as the land of opportunity and abundance.
Once I leave Baltimore, I visit several buildings that explain life in America during the 1800s. I make my way to a small farm and wooden cabin. This building was moved from Virginia, piece by piece. It was finally made available to the public, once the rebuild was completed here in 2020. It looks like it is original to the site. Inside I find photos of the original owners in black and white standing in front of their 11 kids. The park is noticeably different on this side, trees from the east coast of North America, such as oaks and maples dominate the landscape. The air even smells different, drier from the burning wood. In the fireplace is a small fire that is burning oak logs. It smells dry and woody. I feel as if I have been transported to a completely different place. How cool is that?
I spend 2.5 hours wandering the park, enjoying the sites, and consuming the various aromas. This was a great way to spend an afternoon. The Ulster American Folk Park is an experience unlike any other and I highly recommend it.
I spend the next hour and 45 minutes crossing County Tyrone as I head to the north coast. My laptop informed me this morning, that this is my last day with the car. I completely lost track of the days and it feels wonderful. My rental is due back at noon tomorrow so, I decide to head for Ballymoney (Bally mooney).
I arrive in town around 630 pm and hope to grab dinner before checking in at 8 pm. Google maps say The Tower Bar has great food. Stepping into the bar, I can tell I've been misled. The front room is tiny, enough to sit maybe a dozen people. Do you have a kitchen? "No kitchen. Come on in. I have the best pint of Guinness. Go grab a bite to eat and come back", says Daniel the friendly owner and barkeep. The other two guys in the bar laugh, they are carpet layers. Paul is a friendly fellow who shakes my hand and recommends I grab and pizza then come back. I can tell he is not very particular about where he eats. Sure, I'll take a pint of Guinness. Daniel reaches behind the bar and hands me a bag of Tayto Cheese and Onion potato chips. "Try these, they are an Irish delicacy", he says. I gotta admit that is a strange combo but it works, I finish the small bag. After about 15 minutes I am alone with Daniel and we continue our conversation about the history of the bar. "This bar has been in my family for 108 years. I poured my first pint when I was 7", he says. He ducks behind the counter to show me how he poured beer back then.
"What kind of music do you like?", he inquires. I like most music. Really like rock most. I am surprised by how diverse Irish folks are with their music taste. "Yeah, we are all over the shoe when it comes to music", Daniel says. A picture of Daniel's grandfather hangs in the corner of he bar, along with other family photos.
A black cat makes her way onto the bar top, looking for a head scratch. "That's THC. She's a great bar cat. The Honest Customer. Been this gentle since I got her", he says smiling. I can tell he is really fond of her company. A few minutes later another gentleman walks in. "This is Marty. He's from Derry", says Daniel. We begin chatting with Marty who has lots of great information about Derry. "Grab a pint at Paeder O'Donnell's, it is a proper Irish pub, not gimmicky like many around these parts. Walk the wall. Visit the Guild. Derry's a great town, you won't have any troubles," shares Marty. We continue chatting, I'm starting to get really hungry by now. Marty and Daniel both ask how they can follow my journey. I help connect them with my blog, shake their hands, and head out the door at about a quarter past 8 pm. Daniel and THC are pictured below in The Tower Bar.
I set out in search of food, No Joy. I bounce around a few different places. It appears that restaurants closed at 8 here tonight and I'm late. I finally get directed to a local takeaway called A Flash in the Pan. I order a chicken sandwich and chips (fries) and head to my Airbnb.
Hillary meets me at the door, “Welcome Martin! Come sit with us in the kitchen and enjoy your dinner." Inside is Alan and a young teacher that has been staying with them since January. I tell them where I've been as I start to talk about my injury, Alan chimes in "Bursitis. That's your body telling you to slow down. I got just the thing for you. I have serious troubles with bursitis. Hang on," he says and disappears. I continue eating my mediocre dinner. Alan hands me a card of 500 mg Naproxen tablets. Naproxen is the local brand name for Aleve back in the United States, I later find out. "Take them with a meal or it will upset your stomach. I take one in the morning and evening. By the second day, I'm right", says Alan. We share stories and enjoy great conversations. After a wee bit, Hillary shows me to my room.
Before calling it a night, I reflect on the fact that again things fell into place. Marty and Daniel passed on a lot of great information today to help me with my next few days. I'm really excited about a proper visit to Derry tomorrow. The meeting with Alan, who provided me with Naproxen, is special. Could it be the Well of Doon answering my prayer? A simple coincidence? I smile, humbled once again. I am so grateful for the abundance I have received today.
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