Bordeaux (France) | The City by Night - Day 61-62

Over the last week, I've been corresponding with my mom via text. Given the 8-hour time difference and the fact that I don't readily get all text messages immediately, it makes for a slow exchange. However, my mom has devoted considerable time researching her lineage through Ancestry.com, a feat in itself as the records are handwritten and in French. She once showed me the extensive family tree she has pieced together. It is pretty impressive. My mom has informed me that Bouthilliers and Greniers were early immigrants to the Montréal area in the 1600s. So, I decided it might be interesting to spend some time exploring the family tree while in France. As this was not part of my original intention, and I am in my last week in France, this might be more of a challenge than I realize. Honestly, until now, I have not had much interest in tracing my ancestry. I always assumed I had French roots but never looked into it.

My mom tells me she has traced the Bouthilliers back to around 800 AD. I ask my mom for any leads on significant people she has uncovered. We have ties to several Kings of France - Louis I, Louis II, Louis VI, Louis VII, and Louis IX, as well as several Lords (Counts and Viscounts) from the Middle Ages. Without more time, it is difficult to pick out which might have interesting stories. I spent some time researching where these Kings of France are buried, thinking it might be interesting to visit the sites. Unfortunately, all but Louis II are buried in the Basilica of Saint-Denis. Saint-Denis, France, is located about 10 km (8 mi) north of Paris. Louis II is buried in Hungary. Since neither is on my agenda for this trip, I need to go in a different direction. Something to keep in mind for my next trip to France! 

So, I switch gears and begin researching where the Bouthilliers and Greniers originated in France. The first record of Bouthilliers is from the Normandie Region around 1100 AD. Today the Bouthillier surname is about 3x more common in Canada than in the US and France combined. Less than 2,000 people have this surname in Canada. Fewer than 200 Bouthilliers are known in France. Not much is known about the origins or the meaning of the Bouthillier surname. I wonder what caused the Bouthilliers to leave France? This might be interesting to research. I was interested in exploring Normandy on this trip; however, because of the cooler temperatures, Mont Saint-Michel, and tourist season, I found it impossible to find reasonable accommodations in the area. It appears I have more exploring to do in Northern France.

Lastly, I devote some time to the Greniers. I have not started a family tree yet, so I don't have a lot of information to go from. Perhaps it is something I ought to do soon. In the meantime, I repeat the process for the Greniers. Similarly, the Grenier surname is most common in Canada, with just under 25,000 people. Which is about the combined number in France and the United States. Greniers are much more common and dispersed than the Bouthilliers. The origins of the Grenier surname is derived from a time when surnames reflected your occupation or region. The Greniers were tied to the operation of granaries or grain merchants. The first account of Grenier is from île-de-France (An ancient area surrounding Paris). This is where it takes a twist. In the 1400s, Greniers branched into the Languedoc part of France. Languedoc is a former province that has been replaced by the modern-day Occitanie Region. The first record of Greniers in the Languedoc region is from a small town, Vaour, northeast of Toulouse. Later, Greniers branched again and settled into the ancient Dordogne Region, or modern-day Nouvelle-Aquitaine Region (a.k.a. Bordeaux surrounding area).

It appears I have some more research to do. Without more information, I am unsure which of the three lineages are my ancestors. It could be all three or just a single line. This feels like an excellent place to stop for the moment. This is interesting and unexpected. I have already explored much of the Occitanie Region and am currently exploring the Nouvelle-Aquitain area that was potentially important to my ancestors. Did Le Tour de France develop my desire to visit Occitanie Region, or was I following an unknown ancestral calling to see the area? I'll never know; however, it is interesting to ponder. I am intrigued about resuming the search with help from my mom and aunt in the future. It feels good to tie the origins of both families with my travels. 

It has been hot in Bordeaux over the last few days, with no relief expected before I leave. So, I decided my time would be best spent after my research, wandering through Bordeaux in the evenings. I have grown to enjoy the evenings in France; the lack of direct sun and the steady breeze makes them quite enjoyable. Additionally, I have found that the city can look very different at night, with some sights becoming much more enjoyable with different lighting. 

Below are several photos I have taken around Bordeaux. Whenever I encountered interesting sites after dusk, I would try to capture what I saw. Some of these are what I refer to as tiny perfect moments. They only exist for a short period during, as the French would say, my Ballads (wanderings). These are moments when the light is just right, or I follow my feet and turn down a street instead of continuing. I am grateful for these fleeting moments as they last only a few minutes and then are gone. As you will see, I was fortunate to capture several of these tiny moments while in Bordeaux. Other photos are fascinating night views of sites I have passed by during the day. Perhaps this is why I have grown so fond of this city over the last week; it is so diverse and captivating. 

The Pont de Pierre (Stone Bridge), commissioned by Napolean I, has 17 arches, each representing the 17 letters in Napolean Bonaparte. The lights on the bridge have just turned on, giving it a more dynamic appearance. The bridge serves as the official boundary between the maritime and river domain in Bordeaux. The Garonne River is connected to the Atlantic Ocean and is considered a brackish system here, and the water is always a dark brown color (not noticeable in the photo).

Adjacent to the Miroir d'Eaux (Water Mirror) across from the Place de la Bourse, people find refuge in the gardens from the heat. I enjoy capturing people doing ordinary things; it helps me understand what life is like here and what they value. Unfortunately, Le Miroir d'EAux was too crowded and impossible to photograph due to the number of kids and adults seeking refuge in its cooling waters. Nevertheless, it is the largest reflecting pool in the world at 3,450 sq meters (31,100 sq ft). In the distance, notice the purple Ferris wheel.

I was fortunate to be passing by and noticed the fantastic colors in the sky as the sun was setting over Bordeaux. This is one of my favorite photos.

The Grand Théâtre de Bordeaux (Grand Theatre of Bordeaux) is stunning in the twilight hours. It is a famous opera house and a gorgeous building inside and out. It just occurred to me. I never checked to see if I could enter the building. 😂

I have fallen in love with the Monument aux Girondins and the symbolism represented throughout the monument. In this photo, I especially like the amber glow in this photo and the proud rooster on the right side of the picture. The rooster came to life for this photo and appears in full color in this light. The fountain looks like it is made of gold. Far more interesting than the green patina of the bronze I saw a few days ago.

South of the Monument aux Girondins, I captured the pink light of the setting sun reflecting in the windows of the building on the left. This picture is dramatic with Lady Liberty in the background, which appears much closer to a pegasus than a human form.

Port Caihau looks magical and like a castle in a Harry Potter film at night.

This is one of my favorite photos. This is an abandoned Nazi U-boat base from World War II. Part of the base has been turned into a vast art museum. Notably, the building was lit red for < 30 minutes and looks fantastic!

This magnificent contemporary lift bridge, Pont Jacques-Chaban-Delmas, was built in 2013. It features four enormous towers that look like giant kaleidoscopes at night. The tower's lights change colors from deep purple to aqua, and are constantly flickering. These towers have another purpose; they are used to raise and lower the bridge, see Pont Jacques-Chaban-Delmas action.

Even the Gare Saint-Jean looks different at night and is much more appealing with the white and orange lights than during the day.