Swansea (Wales) | Oystermouth Castle & Penllergaer Woods - Day 73

Swansea, Wales, has some great architectural features. The multicolored brick building (commercial space and event arena) and the modern footbridge are part of the Copr Bay renovation, a nod to Swansea's former copper mining industry. These structures are only about 1 year old.

Yesterday was an essential step. I now know I can physically, with a light daypack, do the kinds of distances that are required to walk the Camino. I am grateful for all the love and support I've received over the last month and a half since I injured myself. It is a beautiful feeling to know I am supported even though I'm several thousand miles away. Thank you all!

I'm feeling a bit stiff this morning. It's a good stiffness. The same kind I would have after a long walk. Nothing hurts. This is excellent news! I acknowledge that stretching will be part of my morning routine indefinitely for the foreseeable future. After loosening up, I intend to work through the details of my next move. The forecast said it was supposed to rain this morning. However, it is a beautiful sunny morning. So, I change my plans. Time to get outside and enjoy the sunshine! This is a bonus. I should log some more miles today. My intent is not to push myself today but to use the miles to help my body recover from yesterday's long walk. Similar to how riders from Le Tour de France ride on their rest days, I need to do the same to train my body to adapt to what lies ahead.

I stumble onto Penllergaer Valley Woods while online and am intrigued. I'm unsure what to expect from this 2.6 ac (1.0 ha) piece of land northwest of Swansea. It feels like the perfect place to explore while I log some easy miles. A dual-purpose trip this morning. Penllergaer (Penllergare) Valley Woods is bifurcated by the River Llan. This was once a private garden, and the owners were thoughtful about developing the woods, adding water features, building carriage trails, and planting a wide range of plants and trees. Unfortunately, tragedy struck the family in 1893, and the family eventually abandoned the site in the late 1920s. For 80 years, the woods were left behind and became overgrown. The estate was ultimately carved off bit by bit for new development until 2000 when a community-based volunteer group advocated for saving the remains of the woods and began an active restoration.

After a short walk from the bus station, I descend onto this wide trail that once was used by carriages to circumnavigate the property. There is a wide range of paths in the woods ranging from these well-maintained wide paths to single-track hiking trails. A site map is available at the coffee shop run by volunteers.

The path opens to a view of the River Llan below. Notably, the river was damned to create this wide lake feature and a waterfall downstream.

I pass several Mallards and a couple other species on the far bank. They are difficult to identify given they are in their eclipse plumage. However, I notice they are considerably smaller than the Mallards.

The other great features of the site are the remnants of the original gates on the property and the abandoned staff houses that remain. Staff that helped manage the property lived in buildings throughout the property, and their homes were near gates, which they were expected to control. I notice that just left of the far column and between the trees on the left is the abandoned shell of a staff house (the dark mound). 

As I walk through the beautiful site, I am glad I came here today. I wonder about all the great places that need volunteers. Now that I have changed my routine, I feel blessed to have so much time and acknowledge a desire to share that time by volunteering. Though I am not sure what that looks like yet. The feeling is strong enough that I make a note to explore this further in the future. I notice this is important, and I need to do it when I am ready.

After a few hours, I take the bus back to Swansea, connecting to another bus that brings me to The Mumbles. Yesterday, I blew past The Mumbles because it was raining. I am looking forward to exploring the area further with more favorable weather. My first destination is Oystermouth Castle, a castle with a great history.

The castle stronghold is in excellent condition and was one of the most important castles on the Gower Penninsula.

The Gothic-style chapel on the right was a late addition by Lady Alina de Breos. Her renovation was vital as it changed the castle's function from a military stronghold to a beautiful private estate. Lady Alina is believed to still haunt the castle, and many books have been written about her story.

The castle has many great features, but none are as spectacular as the view from the upper level looking north across Swansea Bay from the enormous Gothic window.

Swansea is located north of the Mumbles and is easily visible on a clear day like today.

The view south, towards The Mumbles, is lovely today with the tide out.

My gastronomic experience over the last few days has been very disappointing. I seldom order chicken, as it is easily overcooked. But, against my better judgment, I broke my rules and had overcooked chicken two nights in a row, one at a Jamaican and the other at a Brazilian Restaurant. The food was subpar despite their great reviews online. So today, I'm keeping it simple. I am stopping by the Gower Seafood Hut, which sources all its seafood locally. 

The Gower Seafood Hut has a great story. A local couple fell in love and toured Europe, experiencing great seafood. When they returned to Gower, they opened this seafood hut. The board below shares their story, and the map shows all the local vendors of the source seafood.

When I proceed to order. I ask for the Spicy Prawns and whatever their specialty is. "You must try the cockles. They are quite lovely," says the young kid preparing the dishes. So I order the Spicy Prawns and Cockles Popcorn. As I settle the bill, the owner and I begin to converse. She loves my accent. That makes me laugh, and I think how many times I thought others had accents, and now it is me. "You must go see West Wales. It is beautiful, and you can't make a bad choice," she says. This is reassuring, as I was considering heading there next.

The seafood is cooked to perfection! No overcooked meal tonight. On the left are the Spicy Prawns with cocktail jam. On the right are the Cockles Popcorn (fried shelled clams) with garlic mayo. What this meal lacks in abundance, it more than makes up for in flavor! This is an absolute culinary delight.