Biarritz (France) | An Eclectic Beach Town - Day 85

This house looks like it was built in the Middle Ages and towers above the simple clay-tiled buildings. It is but one example of the eclectic architecture of Biarritz. 

I remember Sophie mentioning that Le Bistro du Haou is a great culinary experience. She says it is owned by a big-time chef that got fed up with how expensive meals were. So he opened up this little bistro because he still loves to cook. The waitress brings the daily special along with the standard menu. I glance at the menu, then look at the special, and my decision is made. The main dish and a little dessert for 18 euros. What a deal!

The main dish is pork backstrap (i.e., boneless chop) grilled to perfection and served on top of creamy polenta with peppers and eggplant. This dish is delightful! It makes me happy to have these kinds of culinary experiences. I don't mind paying for expensive food. However, this meal reminds me that great food doesn't have to cost a lot.

The special dessert is a meringue topped with fresh coconut, three dollops of chocolate mouse, and a coconut lime sauce. It is simple, light, and tastes terrific! The portions are perfect, and I leave satisfied. When I arrive at the house, I tell Sophie about it. She is pleased to know I took her recommendation.

Several times yesterday, Sophie offered to loan me her bicycle. I turned her down as I wanted to wander the streets of Biarritz on foot. People still find it odd that I have no vehicle and rely on my "Chevrolegs and Lambrofeeties" to get me places. I noticed last night that there isn't a flat street in this quirky little town. Even once you get to the ocean, there is a steep descent. 

Sophie tells me a walking and bicycle path connects Biarritz to Anglet to Bayonne. It is about 25 km (15 mi) roundtrip. So I decided to take advantage of this beautiful day and take her up on the offer. Sophie has a lovely and relatively new Wagoboard electric folding bicycle. The French love their folding bikes. You'd think that because the bike folds up, it would be lightweight, but no. This bike is built like a tank. She made the purchase because she loves to ride in the mountains and this model with the electric motor and wide tires handles off-road quite well. I dig the orange and black! After a rundown on the bike operation, I strap my pack onto the rack and set out for my ride to Bayonne.

I enjoy the 3+ hour bike ride, the easiest I've ever been on, thanks to the e-bike. Sophie's bike is a pleasure to ride. With the electric motor, I hardly break a sweat climbing the hills. This is my first time on an e-bike, and I can see why they are so popular. I am humbled that Sophie trusted me enough to loan me such a nice bike. When I return, I let her know how much I appreciate her hospitality and that people like her, Pamela, Hamilton, and Sonia have made my trip so memorable.

I spend the rest of the afternoon wandering Biarritz. This is quite a lovely town. I am fascinated by the eclectic architecture of the city. Everywhere I look, it is as if buildings from different eras were dropped into the city haphazardly. It shouldn't work, yet it does. I love it! Notice all the various buildings, from Modern on the hill in the back to castle-like Medieval buildings.

Another example. The more I wander through Biarritz, the more this town grows on me. Walking is not easy. Every street is on an incline. But, I have noticed that my zig-zagging allows me to walk faster downhill with less stress than people who descend directly.

There is definitely a Basque-Spanish influence here with the red clay-tiled roof too.

I love the coastline here in Biarritz. It is picturesque, and the ocean breeze feels terrific. It is 75 F (24) degrees today. What a lovely temperate this is. Off in the distance, you can see the lighthouse. Plage Miramar is hidden by the stunning rock feature.

Yet another example of eclectic architecture in Biarritz. The modern hotel dominates the upper bluff. However, another medieval castle-like building is below it, and the red clay-tiled buildings are also visible.

After dinner, I make my way to the coast and catch the beautiful sun reflecting off the water.

Tomorrow I leave for Irun, Spain. I am a bit more anxious than I expected to be. I will be starting the Camino on Saturday. The first day is a bit of a long day, and a little voice that is The Mind is persistent tonight. It is responsible for my unsettledness. However, after spending time under the stars, I realize I am as ready as possible. I hiked the Welsh Coast with a heavier pack last week and walked 20+ mi (32 km) in a day while in Ireland under much more challenging conditions. I felt awesome before hurting myself. I remind myself to be a slug, and the rest will fall into place.




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