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| The Güemes (Gwem mess) Pilgrims Hostel is one of the finest experiences on the Camino Del Norte. These two signs hung on the wall of the great hall where all pilgrims met before dinner. The sign on the left reads, "Spaces are to be filled with life," and on the right, "To walk is to dare the night to hope." |
Day 11 is a relatively short stage, about 14 km (8.7 mi), and takes me from Noja (No-ha) to Güemes (Gwem mess). The stage continues along the pavement and climbs to a max elevation of 120 m (400 ft).
It is a bit before 8 am when I walk into the central part of Noja. The street art in Noja catches my eye. It is very cartoon-like, and I enjoy the bright colors.
Another example of a bright and colorful cartoon-like art piece.
Another example of a bright and colorful cartoon-like art piece.
Near the grocery store, I decide to find a coffee shop and wait until the site opens. I order breakfast tapas, ham and cheese sandwich, and a coke. They don't have hot chocolate, and I don't drink coffee, so coke will do. In the courtyard, I find Enrique and Céline. I sit and pull out my computer. After a quick stop at the grocery store, I am back on the road at about 930 am.
I don't have far to go, but I am tired of walking on the pavement. The last several days have been hard. On the one hand, pavement is easy walking. The footing is solid and even. But, on the other hand, it is hard on the body, and I noticed last night that some Pilgrims have new blisters to deal with.
Céline and I walk together today. She talks about her father that passed away and all the weight he carried alone in his life because he didn't know how to relieve himself of this burden. "I think it is a generational thing with men," she says. Yes, men are generally raised to be independent and not show weaknesses. "So many men carry a heavy burden alone. Afraid to ask for help, as they might appear weak," she says. So, they carry these heavy backpacks with lots of stuff that doesn't serve them anymore, I say, as I tap on my rucksack that is way too heavy compared to other pilgrims. I start to laugh. I have things that don't serve me on the Camino in my bag. Maybe it is time to lighten my own load?
The sky is overcast, and the Spanish countryside is lovely today.
The Albergue in Güemes is an extensive facility. The main building includes the dining hall, kitchen, some rooms, and meeting room. My little room with four beds is to the right of the picture. I like the smaller rooms and am grateful to have stayed with people that don't snore.
Right away, I run into Ivo and Lap. Kirstin has moved on and returned to her job in the Netherlands. I last saw these guys in Portugalete 5 days ago. We catch up on each other's travels. They had a fantastic stay last night at a convent in Laredo. The nuns asked all the Peregrinos to purchase things for dinner with little guidance. Then the nuns made a family-style meal from all the ingredients Peregrinos bought for dinner. "Oh my gosh, it was so good, man. But so much food." Ivo says.
Then Luca joins us. He tells me they took a rest day near the end of their time on the Camino. Then, Friday, they head home. He is finding the Camino a bit stressful this time. However, he feels like he cares for his little group and finds the journey much more frustrating as they aren't listening to him. "I am angry in the mornings until I get coffee," he says. I laugh. Coffee does that to people.
At 5 minutes to 7 pm, a volunteer begins ringing a bell and all the Peregrinos begin assembling in the meeting hall. Lodging, dinner, and breakfast are all free today; however, all Peregrinos are required to attend the presentations by Father Ernesto.
When I walk in, I sit down on a unoccupied cushion to the right. I look up and see José, who greets me with a big smile and big brotherly hand-shake. I haven't seen him since my walk into Bilbao. I am thrilled to see him and that his blisters have not slowed him down.
Michael (Germany) is also sitting in front of me and I tap him on the back.
Father Ernesto, walks in and asks one of the Peregrinos who speaks English and Spanish to translate for him. "There are 53 Peregrinos here tonight representing 37 countries," he says in Spanish. "Humans are migrants and have walked all over the world. When you walk the Camino, you honor the human spirit and are paying respect to ancient humans that migrated all over the world," the man with the white beard and blue shirt continues.
Father Ernesto shares the story of this Albergue, which was built on his families farm to support this small poor community in Spain. In 1999, the first Peregrino stopped here, as the Albergue was not on the main path of the Camino Del Norte then. In 2019, a young man from Germany was Peregrino 100,000 to stay here.
Father Ernesto has traveled to 80 countries and does not speak English. "There are two main ways people communicate. Obviously, verbally. The spoken word. The second way is with an open heart and a clear mind," he continues. "People visit countries all the time. They go from the hotel, to beach, to the restaurant, and back to the hotel. This is not traveling. This is vacationing." he says. "To travel, you must wander slowly, immerse yourself in the culture, and understand how people live. This is what is means to travel." he says as he waits for the translator to finish.
He speaks about how the world was colonized, with a bible and sword. He tells us about how our ancestor frequently said they had humble reasons for going to new countries. He emphasizes that they often did so with violence without the intention of learning other cultures. "Do not forget that people all over the world live extremely good lives because others live in poverty," he says.
As Father Ernesto concludes, he reminds everyone that the Albergue receives no subsidies, government funding, or grants of any kind. Since its inception, the Albergue has been funded entirely by private and pilgrim donations. "At dinner, you will see a brown box. We ask that you consider donating to the Bank of the Peregrinos." We give him and the interpreter a big applause when he finishes and head to dinner.
Dinner is simple but filling. Chicken noodle soup, bread, pork stew, and red wine. Roger, an older man from Wales, leans in and says, "I didn't think the food was that good. What do you think we leave for a donation?" Well, how much have you paid for other Albergues? Did they include food too? Roger says, "No." Isn't it worth at least that?
I hope that Roger can open is heart and clear his mind a bit more while on the Camino and can learn to enjoy the simple gifts in life.
So many truths. Vacation vs traveling. I think of the beginning of your journey, your travels throughout Ireland and the connections and conversations you enjoyed. I think of my own travels through Latin America, the people I still think of, the experiences I treasure. Most of those I met lived in poverty, but I found their lives were rich in ways we have forgotten. So genuine in their love. So connected to all that is important in life. I wonder how they are doing, and how their journeys have unfolded. 53 peregrinos representing 37 countries - in one wonderful Albergue, listening to Father Ernesto’s wise words. What a gift as your journey continues to unfold.
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