Ontón (Spain) | My First Dinner in an Albergue - Day 93

 

As I leave this morning, I notice these silhouettes outside the Albergue that I missed when I entered yesterday.

Day 8 takes me from Portugalete to Ontón. Today, the walk is about 20 km (12.5 mi), maxing out at an elevation of 120 m (400 ft). For the second day, the route follows pavement predominantly.

I slept well last night, but people are already packing their backs at 530 am. So, I get out of bed at 6 am and join the crowd. While in the common room, I stretch and eat my snacks for breakfast.  

As I leave town, I pass by this raised Camino symbol and love how it looks this morning. I trust my boots more than my shoes right now, though they are not the best for beating pavement. I might be better off in my lighter running shoes. However, I trust my boots. If I stick with them, I can avoid thinking about new foot problems.

The climb out of Portugalete is steady. I think of the Queen of England this morning. Her passing was all over the news in Portugalete. This is an important moment in history. We will never witness another monarch rule a country for as long as Queen Elizabeth II in our lifetime. Her 70 years is an astonishing feat.

Céline and I follow the signs through a series of relatively uneventful meaders. There just isn't a lot that catches my eye today. Nevertheless, I enjoy the morning chat and the cool air. I am focused on making progress this morning. 

I left around 745 am this morning, which is late for most Peregrinos. I decided long ago that I am here to enjoy the Camino, and leaving 2-hours before the sun rises is not enjoyable for me.

The climb continues along a bicycle path this morning. As this rider passes by, he says, "Buen Camino," and gives us a thumbs up! Several large groups of riders also pass by. Each group is heading uphill while the air is cool. I drift and think about how much I enjoy riding and I miss my bike.

I am still having some issues with my left shoulder and 1st rib. It is worse following nights on hard beds. It just won't stabilize. So this morning, I need to stop, shed my rucksack, and adjust it. When I do, Céline says, "A bientôt," and keeps walking. While I am stopped, I take the time to cover my face, neck, and arms with sunscreen. After resuming, I see Céline sitting by the side of the road, eating. I ask her if everything is good, she nods, and I keep going. I finally get my glimpse of the ocean around 900 am. It is the first time since Deba I've seen the sea.  

As I pass this fence, I immediately think someone is crying out for help if they believe this. Then I laugh. Maybe the Camino would do them some good.?

I arrive in Pobeña around 945 am and immediately head for the beach. All is quiet this morning. I take my pack off and perform Qi-Gong for about 15 minutes before resuming. I glance at my app, and it has taken me 2 hours to walk 10.5 km (6.5 mi). It felt easy. I averaged 5.2 kph (3.25 mph) with my backpack and had several climbs and descents. I knew I was feeling good, but this is too fast.

I follow the boardwalk to the other beach and the green bridge in the distance. Both will take me to the central part of the town. When I reach the beach, I take off my boots and socks and walk barefoot across the sand to the bridge. I told myself before leaving that when I would do this rather than walk in my shoes across the beach. It is better for the feet, though the going is slow, especially with a backpack. It is a great way to stretch the tendons in the foot and toes.

I look back towards the beach as I climb out of Pobeña, a spectacular view.

The walk along the coastline this morning is beautiful. It feels fantastic to be back along the ocean. I missed it while I was hiking to Bilbao.

I pass through this tunnel and wonder why the wooden structure exists. Perhaps the tunnel has become unstable.

This mature eucalyptus tree catches my eye. The water is crystal blue this morning, and the cool breeze is refreshing. As I pause for a water break, Céline catches up again. I let her know that we are almost to Ontón, the destination for today. I broke my rule and made a reservation at the Albergue in Ontón last night when I realized it was the last town before Castro Urdiales, where there are no vacancies. Castro Urdiales is another 14 km (8.5 mi) from Ontón, and I was not interested in walking an additional 10 km (6.2 mi) to Islares past Castro Urdiales.

The little village of Ontón, Spain. While arriving, I noticed a small beach north of town. 

The Albergue Tu Camino is my destination for the night and is run by a Spanish couple. I arrive around 1 pm. It doesn't open until 2 pm. I am sore and tired. The heat is not helping. I think I walked too fast today and need to slow down.

The Albergue only cost 10 euros with breakfast included. Dinner is also included. However, they ask for a donation for dinner. 

After check-in, I head down to the beach. The water is cool and refreshing. However, the rocky beach is hard on my sensitive feet. I am not enjoying the walk down to the water. However, once in the ocean it feels great. A bit cold at first but very pleasant once I am completely wet. As I tread water, I feel my left hip pop. Just what I needed. No wonder why people felt the Atlantic Ocean had healing powers. Refreshed, I finally climb back up to the Albergue and take advantage of the shower, now that everyone already has had one.

There are close to 30 Peregrinos tonight. Among the Peregrinos are the two Spaniards with the radio I leap-frogged a few days ago. Actually, I find out only one is a Spaniard, Gonzalo. The other, Luca is Italian. The couple is doing their second Camino together, and have plans to marry in May. They live in Barcelona and met on the Camino Frances a few years ago. Luca's older sister, Eliza, joined them for a few days on the Camino del Norte.

At 815 pm, the owners serve dinner. I, unfortunately, left my phone in my backpack, which is not accessible because of how the tables are now arranged. I look for a place to sit, and Francisco Martin, an older Spanish man I met earlier, calls my name, says "Aqui," and points to the empty chair between him and Céline. I don't have other options and am grateful he saved me a seat. Though I was looking to meet other Peregrinos. That's what happens when I am one of the last to enter.

We begin with quick introductions. Krysti, a young tall blond girl, is from Germany. The couple across me is from the Netherlands and has been walking for four months. They started in France. I hear Austria, France, South Korea, the United States, and Australia, among others.

A mixed salad is served family style. Then they bring 5 kg (11 lbs) of pasta in a single cast iron skillet. It includes squash, onions, carrots, and a beautiful red sauce. Bottles of wine are placed on the table as quickly as they are emptied. The meal finishes with a flan for everyone. What a meal! I am in awe that they do this every night.

With the meal finished, Mary Jan from France begins singing. Several French people are sitting at the table, so she looks to them for help. "Les Chevalier the la table round? [the knights of the round table," she asks and begins singing. I haven't heard this song in decades. I remember my Grandpa Bouthillier used to love to sign it. He had a beautiful voice. He frequently sang this song with my mom and aunts. Mary Jan tells me she spent time with a couple of Québécquois and French quarter at a song camp. I ask her if she knows another song my Grandpa used to sing about the wives of Henry VIII. She says no. But starts singing another song, " Le Rois Dagobert." I begin to smile. I haven't heard that one in a long time, either. I thank her for singing these beautiful songs and helping me remember my Grandpa.

After the meal is cleaned up, I walk over and leave 20 euros in the donation box. This night was worth every penny. Reconnecting with these beautiful memories is priceless.