Oriñón (Spain) | Letting Go - Day 94

One of the last photos I take at the Albergue Tu Camino is this board full of money from around the world. Undoubtedly it is money they have received in tips through the years. The US and Canadian dollars are well represented.

Day 9 takes me from Ontón to Oriñón, Spain. Today, the walk is about 20 km (12.5 mi), maxing out at an elevation of 120 m (400 ft). For the second day, the route follows pavement predominantly. I followed an alternate path from Ontón to Castro Urdiales, which took me to the coast instead of dipping down into the interior of Spain.

I slept well last night. However, at 6 am, I am abruptly woken up when someone turns on the light switch. They decided it was late enough or didn't care that others were sleeping. In the end, it doesn't matter. I am groggy and moving slowly this morning because of it. Sitting down to have breakfast, I am one of the last ones. The Albergue provides breakfast today. It consists of two pieces of toast. I supplement this with a couple granola bars.

At 710 am, I am a long way from being ready. Céline looks at me. I shake my head no and wish her Bien Camino. It's time to let Céline go. As she walks out the door, I wonder if our paths will cross again. Then, with most Pilgrims gone, I step outside and decide to put on my running shoes, put my boots on my pack, and begin my Qi Gong routine. This will wake up my body and prepare me for the walk today. I finally leave the Albergue around 745 am. When I finally start walking, I feel great.

I often speak of letting go and taking risks. Today, before I start I put on my running shoes. I realized yesterday, that I was afraid of letting go of my boots. I know what to expect from them and don't want to risk new injuries with my running shoes, even though they are probably better for the pavement. A short way from the Albergue, I see another stunning sunrise. I am so grateful for these, and I love starting my day this way.

I am looking forward to the solitude today and visiting with new Peregrinos. Shortly after sunset, I encounter Gundi from Germany. I am letting go of speed today. It feels good to walk with Gundi for a while. I am a little sore from walking too fast yesterday. I want to slow down with shoes I haven't worn for long distances since Ireland. I met Gundi at the Albergue in Portugalete a few days ago. That's the exciting thing about the Camino. Everyone walks at their own pace, and you never know who will be at the Albergue at the night's end. Sometimes, it can be 2 or 3 days before you re-encounter someone. Sometimes, you never see them again. It is a risk you take each time your part ways. As I look west, I can see Castro Urdiales.

I encounter a small group of French Pilgrims, Bernard, Maé, and a couple I chatted with last night from the Netherlands at dinner. This couple has been walking together for 4 months and started in northern France. I didn't ask them about the weight of their packs, but they look heavy too.

We pass a yellow arrow with a bicycle that points left. Maé says that is the route for bikes. We need to continue straight up the hill. Due to my endurance, which I gained from riding my bike, I have no difficulties with uphills. So, as we begin the climb, I distance myself from the group. 

I pull out my phone to check on my speed and realize we are on an alternate path to Castro Urdiales, which takes us through a small village. This works great. I pass a convenience store where I buy a bottle of Powerade and a smoothie. The Powerade helps with hydration, and the smoothie is packed with protein. Both are great additions to the morning breakfast.

As I restart, I recheck my speed; 3.2 mph (5.2 kph). Too fast. I want to be around 2.5-2.9 mph (4.0-4.5 kph). I think this is a good pace, and I feel good walking at this speed. I can easily walk faster now, but I don't think it is good for me. I frequently check my phone as the morning progresses, often slowing back down to my targetted range. It is more challenging than I thought it would be to keep a steady pace.

When I arrive in Castro Urdiales, I look right and notice a boardwalk along the waterfront. So I decide to let the Camino go again and walk to the new path. Wow! Just two blocks east of the Camino, I encounter a stunning boardwalk.

The light is perfect when I pass the town sign. So I squat down to get the right angle, and voila! The iconic landmarks are on the point behind the sign. But, man, it is only 930 am, and I can already feel the sun and heat. So, when I see a fountain, I stop to put on sun lotion and wash my hands. It feels great to be free of the Camino, and love exploring this part of the city. I feel like it has been a long-time since I last wandered through a city, though it hasn't been that long.

Maybe if it wasn't so early in the day, I might stop and enjoy the beach. But instead, I opt to keep moving.

The solitude feels good, but to find it, I must let go of friends I have made along the way. This gives me time to reflect. The coastline is beautiful this morning, the heat is unbearable, and it isn't noon yet. I check the temp, it is 92 F (feels like 95 F according to my phone; 33 C and 35 F). This is why I waited till September. This kind of heat is unbearable to hike in with a pack.

Also, I bruised my left heel somewhere along the way. It is very sensitive to walk on. I decide it is essential to keep walking normally, although slower, to ensure I don't create another problem.

As I stop in a small shaded spot to look at my progress, Luca, Gonzala, Eliza, and Céline arrive. Luca tells me their plan is to "Eat pavement today" and continue to Loredo via an alternate route to shorten the distance. Luca doesn't realize that it is all pavement today, regardless of the path he chooses. The brief walk along the coast is the only reprieve. When we reach the pavement again, I let them go. Céline suggests taking a break at the beach in Islares. I feel like I am in an oven, cooking from above, and I can feel the heat bouncing off the pavement below me. Plus, my heel hurts a bit, so I decide to join her. 

The shade feels good, and the water feels great! After cooling off, I ask the people next to us to watch our stuff and head to a little restaurant nearby for lunch. 

Service is slow, but the hamburger and ice-cold water are fantastic! We make a plan to walk from the beach to the next town before returning to the pavement. However, when we return to our bags, the tide has come up, and there is no beach. The water is now chest deep. This is not a good condition to traverse with a backpack. I look at my app, 6.5 km (4 mi) to the next town via the pavement. 

It doesn't take long before I am cooked again. Unfortunately, the highway has little shade, the breeze is non-existent, and my heel is about done for the day. This detour just turned a pleasant 22 km (13.7 mi) walk into a long day. 

There is a small Albergue in Oriñón, right on the beach, and I can't wait to get there. It is just off the main Camino. Finally, at 4 pm, we reach a crossroads on the trail after leaving the pavement. Uphill to the left leads to Leindo and is another 5 km (3.5 mi) along highway N-634. This could turn into a longer hike if the Albergue is full. 

The path to the right leads downhill to the Albergue 1.6 km (1 mi) through the trees. We stop. I tell Céline I am cooked and am heading to the Albergue. I can't wait to jump into the ocean again. I can tell she prefers to continue to Liendo. I tell her, listen to your heart and body. This is your Camino, do what is right for you. She tells me she feels great and is going to Liendo. I stop and take a photo of the junction from the right fork.

I arrive in Oriñón and am the only one at the Albergue. After check-in, the host tells me, "tonight, this is your palace." The Albergue is essentially a tiny cabin with facilities in the house next door. By far the most basic Albergue I've stayed in. Nevertheless, I am happy to be here. After swimming in the ocean, I enjoy a very hot shower, which feels great! Then, free of distractions, I catch up on the blog.

As I start organizing my pack for tomorrow and checking my food supply, I notice I have been packing an avocado for two days. It isn't good anymore. So I let it go and toss in the thrash. I have only a few granola bars and corn nuts for food. I am not worried, as Laredo is nearby. The solitude tonight is exactly what I need. I know I'll get a good night's sleep and be free to start in the morning. 

I check my heel and notice I have a blood blister on the outside of my left heel. I must have pinched my heel somehow earlier. However, it isn't very large, so I know in a few days it will be better. In the meantime, I decide to let go of my shoes and walk in my boots again tomorrow to protect my heel. Plus, it might rain, and my boots are waterproof. I hate walking with wet feet. I finally call it a night and look forward to tomorrow and what will come of my letting go.