Portugalete (Spain) | Everybody Hurts - Day 92

I love this street light in Bilbao this morning. How would different cities be if streetlights were all made this way? The site is charming, with the little table and chairs next to it. All the street lights on this street are this way.

The Camino Del Norte has many braids. Eventually, they all lead to the same place. Me, I plan to follow the coast as much as I can. This morning, I leave the hostel with Céline and head for my first alternate route, which passes by The Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao. It is a beautiful building, and I intend to see it. The alternate way is 1.5 km (1 mi) north of the main Camino trail and follows the east side of the Nervión River. Both routes meet again in Portugalete. The alternate route is 10 km shorter and much flatter. I tell Céline that this will be a much-needed walking rest day, which I am looking forward to.

Day 7 takes me to Portugalete via an alternate route, to the right of the purple line, and is not displayed on this particular app. The walk is approximately 14 km (8.5 mi) and nearly flat. However, the path is all pavement today. The elevation profile does not apply either. The Hiiker app is helpful today only for posting the starting and ending locations.

It rained last night, so the sky is dramatic this morning and perfect for photos. As I approach the strangely-shaped mirrored building, it is hard to miss this giant flowered dog outside the Guggenheim Museum. Unfortunately, the museum does not open till 10 am, and I plan to be long gone.  

The bank building to the west catches my eye. Notably, the sky's reflection from the east makes it look like it is on fire this morning. 

This is the north side of the museum. The shapes are stunning, and the color is fantastic in this light.

The sun peaks through the clouds when I cross the bridge to the north side of the river. The museum looks even more interesting from this angle.

This massive cat sculpture on top of the building is stunning this morning. Bilbao is an interesting city with lots of modern architecture. It is vast, and I would like to return and spend more time wandering the streets.

I stop at a little cafe with Céline a bit after 9 am. I order a breakfast Pinxot consisting of egg, cheese, tortillas, potatoes, and bacon. Reminds me of a frittata. A significant gap filler and will do more than take the edge off of hunger for the morning. Shortly after, Borja and Alex come wandering down the same path. We greet each other, and he tells me they are on their way to Pobeña, another 10 km past Portugalete. When he asks how far I am going, Céline and I look at each other, and I say I am not sure yet. Depends on the day. They nod and leave as they look for a grocery store this morning.

The walk along the river this morning is enjoyable. It is an industrial area slowly being replaced by new modern buildings. I suspect, like most places, it will be harder to tell where Bilbao and Portugalete start and end.

Céline and I are walking without talking much this morning. I feel like I need some solitude and can sense Céline does too. So, when she stops to take a photo, I continue on and tell her, A bientôt. [see you later]. The Camino is interesting that way. It feels good to break away and walk alone for a while. I pull out my Mala, meditate, and then do a bit of Qi-Gong while walking. As I do, I breathe in the energy of this industrial place. 

I love the contrast between the red ship and the giant grey cranes in the background. The cranes seem like enormous robots that could come to life and move on their own at any minute. Then I notice one is lying on its side, and a yellow excavator is dismantling it. These cranes are from another era and will be gone soon.

As I finish up, Céline catches back up. I tell her I needed some time alone as I was out of sorts a bit. But now I feel strong and grounded this morning. She confirms that she needed time too, and used the time to sing alone this morning. She tells me she loves this stretch of the walk. The area has such a strong and powerful vibe. She is correct. It is precisely why I feel strong today. Céline is observant too, and one of the reasons I enjoy walking with her.

Shortly after, Bruno (France) joins us. Bruno was walking with Mary-Ellen and Sylvie during the first few days. How are your feet, is the first thing I say to him. "Pas bon. [Not good]," he says. He tells me he wore sandals before arriving in Bilboa and has huge blisters on the balls of his feet. But, looking at his walk, I would never know it. 

Then we pass this fellow Peregrino and wish him, Buen Camino. He is walking relatively slowly. His left heel sports a bandaid over a blister, and his right ankle is also wrapped. His boots hang from the back of his backpack.

I drop to the back of the trio and let my mind drift into the lyrics from a song, Everybody Hurts by R.E.M. Everybody hurts, sometimes...if you think you've had too much of this life...take comfort in your friends. I pull out my phone and stream the song on my phone. This is an extremely rare moment for me. I have no desire to listen to music while walking. This morning is different. As the song starts, I am overwhelmed and cry as I think of all the Peregrinos, their strength, and suffering. This is a song for the  Camino. I am grateful to have only a few minor blisters after the first week. No one ever complains of their pain on the Camino. I am humbled by my fellow Peregrinos this morning.

The three of us arrive in Portugalete around 11 am.

To get there, we need to cross this ferry bridge. Below the bridge is a suspended cable car that travels back and forth across the river. As we arrive at the ticket kiosk, I start trying to decipher how to buy a ticket. Surprisingly, a Spanish man, a stranger, comes up to Céline and Bruno. He has recognized we are Peregrinos and is offering to buy our tickets if we give him the fair. I reach into my pocket and pull out a handful of Euros. He takes a single piece, and before I can figure out what, he hands me my change and three tickets. We then board the cable car. Notice the shadow of the cable car on the river in the photo below.

After crossing, Bruno moves on while Céline and I sit looking at the river. I use it as an opportunity to stretch and eat some snacks. Céline and I check in with each other. Then I notice Borja exiting the cable ferry. I wave one last time to him. Borja is walking his Camino, and I think this is probably the last time I will see him. He wants to reach Santiago by October 3. However, that is only 24 days from now, and he will need to increase his pace significantly to make it.

I tell Céline that my body is telling me to take it easy today. We had a challenging first week, and I could use the time to do laundry. She agrees and is pleased to be taking a light day too. We find the nearest Albergue and check-in around 1130 am. Inside, Bruno is already resting up. I pool laundry with another older French couple and head out for lunch with Céline. We spend lunch reflecting on the first week. Putting everything in its place. She says, "It is interesting that today is laundry day." Yes, it parallels our conversation about the first week. Like we are washing and putting away the first week too.

After lunch, I spend more time reflecting on the week's events. The places I've seen. The people I've met. And I wonder how they are doing on the Camino. I also reflect on myself, my body, and my current position. My left hip is a bit sore today. I need someone to pull on my leg to draw the ball out of the socket. I wonder if I am tightening my hip belt too much to save my left shoulder. My feet feel tired, and I am glad I decided not to push on another 10 km today. This walking rest day was a gift for completing a challenging week. 

This first week has been incredible. I have heard of many Peregrinos needing to abandon the journey or stop for multiple days. Others have pushed on with wounds that would keep an average person from walking. As the day closes, I am fortunate for every day I am on the Camino. The Basque and Spanish people are lovely, and I enjoy wandering through their country. Lastly, I am grateful for my new friends along The Way.

I have to include this picture before closing. Portugalete has outdoor escalators to help pedestrians climb up the streets. Something I have never seen. So of course, I take advantage of them. As I slide up the incline, I notice Kirsten, Ivo, and Lap having breakfast. I wish them Buen Camino! They shout out they are going to Pobeña today.