Ribadesella | Splintered - Day 103

 

As I leave this morning, I take a photo of the Galan de Noche (Queen of the Night) right outside the front door of the BnB. The smell was incredibly intoxicating last night when we returned from dinner. Galan de Noche is also known as Night Blooming Jasmine and is considered one of the most fragrant plants in the world. The sweet perfume smell can disperse 300-500 ft (90-150 m).

Day 18 takes me from Celorio to Ribadesella and is the halfway point for the Camino Del Norte. Ribadesella is 423 km (263 mi) from Irun, where I started. This stage is 28.5 km (17.5 mi) and has several minor climbs. The max elevation is 110 m (360 ft). 

Lena heads out the door as I am having breakfast at around 730 am this morning. Then Cami wanders in and informs me she plans to stay in the comfy BnB until 9 am. After that, her plan is to make it a short day. I tell her it is time for her to walk on her own Camino. Yesterday, Cami said, "You are like my dad on the Camino. I have learned so much from you." A wonderful compliment that means a lot to me. I encouraged her to find her own way when she was ready. Today is the day!  I have been blessed to have this good egg share her Camino with me.

Lap and Ivo finally wake up around 8 am as Céline and I prepare to head out the door. I say we'll see you in Ribadesella. "Sounds good, man," says Ivo. The air is cool again this morning. The Galan de Noche is still noticeably fragrant but not as intense as last night. I wear my rain jacket for extra warmth this morning. Playa de Palombrina is the last beach I pass this morning. I catch the morning glow before heading west through the center of the small town. 

As I near the town of Niembru, the sun is starting the warm the tiny village and church.

It has been an incredible 18 days, and by day's end, I will have traversed over 420 km (263 mi). I jokingly tell Céline, "La Camino est bien fait (The Camino is well built)." Obviously, that statement is ridiculous. No one built or predetermined the Camino experience. However, each day I am amazed by how rich the experiences are. Each day is different, yet no one is better than the next. Furthermore, I am humbled daily by my experiences and those of my fellow Peregrinos along the Camino. I love this part of Spain, the mountains and coastlines are spectacular.

Around 930 am, I pass this abandoned church from the 8th century. It has Roman and Spanish features and is quite a site this morning. It looks fantastic in this abandoned state.

I tell Céline that my knee is still tender today. The dull pain comes from the inside of my left knee and is not where I experienced pain when I was in Ireland. "And your backpack? You still have not shed any weight," she says. I laugh. No, but I think about our conversation every day. 

Four days ago, on the way to Cóbreces, we talked about our fathers. Men, especially in older generations, often carried enormous burdens during their lives because they were afraid. They didn't know how to get support or didn't have resources accessible to them to process the things they struggled with. During that conversation, I pointed to my bag as a symbol of the things they carried daily in silence. Their burden slowed them down as they carried painful things that no longer served them. At that moment, I started to laugh at the irony of having a pack filled with things I do not need on the Camino while discussing the burden of others. After that, I remember telling Céline, it was time to shed weight. I planned to do it in Gijón (Hee-hone), the next and last big city on the Camino Del Norte. 

I have already carried my rucksack, which weighs 13 kg (28 lbs) without food or water > 400 km (248 mi). I smile again at the reminder. She's right. It is time to shed my burden.

Despite my awareness that my knee is not 100%, I have no issues walking. The sun is warming up as I pass this beach heading into the town of Naves.

In front of this yellow house, I pass this traditional granary used to dry grains. These granaries are typical in this region of Spain. These clay-tiled square buildings are erected on top of pillars with large flat stones to support the structure. The flat rocks also prevent critters from climbing into the structure.

Around 1 pm, I pass this lovely little house with cute dolls assembled from flower pots. I love how they sit in the window. I love these simple decorations. They also remind me of the ride "It's a Small World" at Disneyland. I think back to the little dolls popping out of windows singing as the ride passes by, similar to me walking by today.

A close-up of the cute little flower pot people. 

This old stone bridge catches my eye this afternoon. I feel the desire to cross over it. So although the trail passes to the left, I walk over it. I think of the thousands of Peregrinos that have crossed it before me.

About 5 km before I reach Ribadesella, Ivo contacts me on WhatsApp. "There are no pilgrim hostels in town. We are looking at options. Need to discuss with you when you get to town." he says. After several exchanges, it makes more sense for Ivo and Lap to continue, as Céline and I are still about an hour away from town. I tell Céline I want to stop in Ribadesella and 28.5 km is far enough for today. We find a private Albergue that costs us 37.50 euros each. Public Albergues are inexpensive. They range in cost from donations to 20 euros. Private Albergues usually cost 20 euros on up. This option was too expensive for Lap today, who is on a budget.

As I walk into the port town of Ribadesella, I can't help but feel that our group has splintered into little pieces. It is complicated to walk the Camino with a group of 6 people, and I am blessed to have shared the past few days with such great people. Cami is 10 km (6 mi) behind, Lena is 6 km (4 mi) behind, and Ivo and Lap are 5 km (3.5 km) ahead. I never know the last time I will see someone on the Camino. I take a moment to enjoy my sadness over the loss of my companions. The harbor at Ribadesella is a welcomed sight, as I am tired. It is now well after 4 pm, and I still have 3 km to the Albergue.

The boardwalk in Ribadesella is quite lovely and has some fantastic buildings.

I've reached the halfway point of the Camino. My passport is filling up with colorful stamps. Each one is attached to a memory I made along the Camino. For example, the yellow stamp is the night I spent alone in an Albergue on the beach. I love that it is the only yellow stamp on my passport. This is an amazing adventure filled with rich experiences every day.

After getting cleaned up, Céline and I get a drink to celebrate the milestone before getting groceries, dinner and calling it a night. On my way home, Borja contacts me. He is 8 km (5.5 mi) from Gijón. He tells me he hurt his ankle and is not walking fast, but he continues. He is almost two full days ahead of me now. I wonder if I will see him again before we reach Santiago.