Zarautz (Spain) | A Day at the Sea - Day 88

One of the many beautiful views of the Basque countryside today.

Stage 2 will take me to Zarautz (Tha-rah-tha), Spain, via Orio (Oreo) and is approximately 22 km (14 mi) and 300+ m (1,000 ft) max elevation.

After yesterday's success, I am excited to get going when I wake. Notably, I am the sole Peregrino at this hostel, so I gather my things using my red bulb head lamp to avoid disturbing others. By 7 am, I am back on the broadway and starting the morning trek. The beachcomber is busy grooming the beach this morning. However, it feels a bit humid, and the temperature is predicted to hit 30 C (80 F) today, so an early start is warranted.

As I make my way down the boardwalk, I pass people who look ready to head out to the nightclubs. Then I pass this building on the left. The music is rocking. Then it dawns on me. They are leaving the club. I laugh. It is 715 am. I have grown to enjoy the early mornings in my travels. I love watching the cities wake up and discovering the hidden stories that the mornings reveal.  

As I climb out of San Sebastián, the sun starts to break the horizon behind San Sebastián. I haven't seen many sunrises to date. The days were just too long, from June through August. Now that the days are growing short, I look forward to watching more sunrises along the Camino.

A while later, I pass this scenic point. I am feeling good this morning. I can climb without stopping. However, I am soaked when I finally plateau due to the humidity.

I am grateful for the long shadows this morning and hold off applying sunblock until the shade disappears.

As I pass the trail, these beautiful morning glories catch my eye.

I spend the morning hiking with José. His pace is a bit slower than mine, but I remind myself there is nothing wrong with slowing down. I notice that José has a bit of a limp this morning. He speaks about as much French as I do Spanish and no English. We have several short conversations, and then I fall back and follow him for a while. José is headed to Santiago. He lives about 30 km (18.5 mi) from Santiago.

As we pass a tent where locals have coffee, tea, and pastries for the Peregrinos, José peels off the trail. He taps me on the shoulder as I pass by. The view of Basque Country is stunning. It is lovely this morning and one of the first views I get this morning looking west towards my destination.

Then I begin the long steep descent on another old, dilapidated stone road. These are not enjoyable to walk down. I pull out my trekking poles and take my time.

Once I reach this old church with a water fountain, I stop to put on sunblock and grab a snack from my pack. A few minutes later, José arrives. I wave as he passes by. Leapfrogging is expected along the Camino. I've noticed already sometimes I leapfrog the same person multiple times in the day. 

By the time I reach Orio, Spain, I am 11 mi into my day. It is around 11 am. I am in good form. I wander the streets looking for a supermarket to buy lunch items. Along the way, I pass this colorful view. I notice all the laundry hanging off the balconies.

A pair of French ladies hiking together have the same idea. They are only going to Bilboa on this trip. I had previously helped them relocate the trail. This time, they helped me locate some bread and a small baguette. They tell me they have already booked their Albergues in Zarautz, yet they hope to push on to the next town. Notably, all the Albergues in the next city are first-come, first-served, so they are a bit worried. I will let the Camino tell me where I stay. This is my lunch today. I was thrilled to find the avocado.

Crossing the bridge in Orio, I take a moment to take a picture of this little village.

Ahead of me is a group of young Basque kids. They are camping their way along the Camino. I am thrilled to see people with rucksacks bigger than mine. I pass them, 4 guys and 3 girls, on the next climb. That is them just ahead of me here.

After the climb, I stop at the top and look back down the valley and across the vineyards. 

As I descend into Zarautz, I am walking with a lady from South Africa who now lives in Jersey (i.e., Channel Islands). Ririe is doing her 4th Camino, her first time on the Del Norte. She is carrying a 15 L rucksack that weighs maybe 5 pounds (2 kg). I tell her I am envious of her pack. For this Camino, Ririe is treating herself. She booked all her hotel stays and is shuttling her baggage daily to her next destination. 

People of different abilities walk the Camino for various reasons and with all kinds of gear. The view down into Zarautz is spectacular! I can see surfers lined up down the beach, waiting for their shot at a wave.

When I arrive in Zarautz, a shirtless Spaniard asks me if I am going to the Pilgrim Hostel for the Camino. I say yes, I am trying to find it. Borja speaks English also, and we connect instantly. We spend the next 30 min walking to and from several Albergues. Unfortunately, the Pilgrim Hostel is closed. The following two have no vacancies. While we are stopped, he takes his boots off, puts on sandals, and says, "You need to do the same. Your feet are now cooking in those hot boots." I laugh. He's right. Once we find a place to stay, I will, I tell him. I finally open Booking.com and find a place at the Surf Hostel next to the beach. It costs 50 euros, but I don't have any other options in this town. Borja does the same.

We drop our sacks at the hostel. Unfortunately, we are too early for check-in; it is now 2 pm. Check-in is at 4  m. So, we head to the beach to grab a beer.

The beach is busy today. It is around 80 F (30 C).

After check-in, we head to the beach h. Borja says I want a picture, so we exchange selfies. He is teaching me about Spanish culture, and we take turns teaching each other words in English and Spanish. He says he likes to spend time with people not from his culture to learn about them. Me too!

The Atlantic Ocean is refreshing at about 23 C (73  ). I teach Borja how to bodysurf, and I say this is an excellent Camino! He says, "This is OUR Camino." I laugh. Yes, it is OUR Camino.

Borja divorced in April and decided to do the Camino after his friend did it last year. "The first 5 days are difficult with all the people. However, once we reach Bilbao, Spain, it will be easier to find Albergques," he says. Many Pilgrim hostels in this part of Spain closed due to Covid and have not reopened. This concentrates Pilgrims initially and overloads the other hostels. In Bilbao, many Pilgrims go home, and others take the Primitivo route. This reduces the pressure for the rest of the journey.

Borja and I have a fantastic evening. The Spanish eat later than the French! It's well after 11 pm, and a few more beers before we make it back to the hostel. Check-out is at 7 am. What a great way to spend Day 2!