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| Leaving Baamonde this morning, I pass the small church with the ancient tree in the courtyard for the final time. Day 34 takes me from Baamonde to A Roxica. The stage is relatively flat, with a gradual incline near the town of Miraz. It is 25 km (15.8 mi) in length and reaches a maximum altitude of 640 m (2,100 ft).  |
When I leave the Albergue, I walk across the street to the little cafe, drop my rucksack and eat a tortilla de patatas with a fresh squeeze of orange juice. The orange juice in Spain is fantastic! It is a deep orange color and slightly thicker than freshly squeezed juice in the United States. The oranges must be a different type than the Valencia orange I am familiar with because I can't find anything like them overseas.
After gathering my things, I walk out the door and encounter Jim and Dennis. The couple is doing their 7th Camino together. "Hey, it's Mr. Québec," Jim says before asking for my name again. Jim strangely remembers where every Peregrino is from, but not always their names. Yesterday, when we had lunch at the cafe in town, he referred to Timo as "Mr. Colorado." Hey guys, how are we this morning? "Great. We are going left and taking a long way," says Dennis. Jim blows me a kiss. "Have a great day!"
This morning the route divides immediately out of Baamonde. Peregrinos can opt for the more peaceful path to the left that bypasses pavement, traffic, and railroad tracks. The ways are not significantly different in length. The shorter route along the highway this morning works for me. It is only 8 am, and traffic is light. Dennis and Jim are confused. They are referring to the 2nd left fork, which diverts further down the road. That second fork forces a Peregrino to decide between the path on the right. It is 32 km (20 mi) and without Albergues and food options. The fork on the left, is 40 km (25 km) has amenities. The right fork must be traversed on the same day. While the left fork requires a Peregrino to take two days to arrive at the same point.
A few minutes later, I can hear Jim and Dennis behind me. What happened? "The fork we want is further down the road, I think," says Jim. I confirm this and the three of us start the morning together. Jim shares all his lessons on the Camino with me. "When we walked the Camino Frances, there was a free wine fountain just off the path at a winery. A must-see experience for Pilgrims," he says. "Pilgrims line up to sample the wine." he continues. Then he starts laughing, "Many people pour out their water and fill their bottles with wine. Then the heat hits them. You'll find 20 Pilgrims, hot and dehydrated, sleeping under a small patch of shade later in the day. I never tell them it is a bad idea to dump their water."
I look forward to finding solitude today. I keep going when Jim and Dennis stop to shed their jackets. A few minutes later, I encounter Petra. We walk together briefly, then she stops. Solitude eludes me this morning. I want to enjoy it before merging with the Camino Frances in a few days. It will be harder to find it then.
The trail is lovely this morning. It is shaded and wanders to a mature stand of trees.
Around 11 am, near an Albergue in Miraz, I pass this stone statue of a Peregrino. I love that this Peregrino is sitting on a wooden log. It reminds me that I have found comfort in the most simple places along the Camino.
This ivy makes for an absolutely stunning entrance to this house at this time of year.
A short while later, around 1130 am, this logging truck passes by. I can smell the fresh-cut pine. It smells so good and reminds me of my time working for Simpson Timber Company in the Pacific Northwest. I love the smell of fresh-cut wood.
I am enjoying the day and haven't seen anyone in a few hours. Despite that, I stop only briefly for photos. This rock wall is intriguing. The rocks in the "V"s are laid horizontally, while the bigger rocks outside the "V"s are vertical.
I notice that I have not stopped at all today. Even more surprising is that my body did not want to stop once I found solitude. So, I start asking myself why this is. I know that when I stop along the Camino that is when I encounter other Peregrinos. It is clearly not what I want today. So, I ask myself again, what do I seek today? I have asked myself this question many times over the last few days. I still don't have an answer, but I know that solitude is what I crave at the moment.
Finally, I find a little road that leads away from the Camino into an open field surrounded by mature trees. The sun is finally shining. I take this moment to find solitude away from the Camino. I sit, take off my shoes and socks, and enjoy being and not doing for a moment. I close my eyes and meditate for a while. Then, feeling centered, I make my way back to the Camino.
"MAR-TIN" shouts a voice climbing up the road. I can see a black shape heading my way. I stop to adjust my shoes and check in with myself. I decide that it would be nice to walk with Sergio. I haven't walked with him yet. It is about time I do. So I wait. How are you feeling? How's the ankle? You look like you are back to walking normally, I say as he approaches. Sergio is from Madrid and inflamed his ankle when he tried to walk too quickly the first few days on the Camino.
"I am doing much better today," he says. "That Petra was annoying the hell out of me last night. Who does she think she is telling Angeles that is what she deserves for walking so fast," he continues. Petra (Czech) has a noticeable abrasive edge to her personality. It is like kissing sandpaper. She is forthright and comes across as argumentative at times. We chat about Petra and how we both believe she has a softer side. We may need to be more gentle with her too.
We spend time discussing our journeys. Even though Sergio has only been walking for 10 days, he is experiencing many of the same things as us Peregrinos who started the journey sooner. His Camino is simply happening at a more rapid rate. Petra told Sergio last night that there was impossible for him to experience this because he has not walked for the same length as her. This invalided his experience. This is Petra's abrasive side. It really irritates Sergio.
I love talking with people who speak other languages when it is not their native tongue. People are more direct and do not beat around the bush to express themselves. If they feel something, they say it. This is why I like Sergio. He wastes no time getting to the point, especially if it involves his feelings. This is a refreshing way to communicate, though sometimes it can come across as coarse. I beleive Petra has a softer side. We must explore it further.
I love this region. It is the first one I've traversed in Spain that is dominated by mature native trees. But, of course, there is an abundance of oak trees in this region too.
I sit next to Phillipe, who asks me if I am a member of the "Temalou" Club [You ache where club]. "Si tu te réveilles et tu n'as pas mal quelque part tu es mort [If you wake up and you don't ache somewhere, you are dead]," says Phillipe. It is his way of asking people how they are doing and a reminder that we all are hurting somewhere on this trip. I enjoy Phillipe. I remember the first time he asked me that question when I was only a few kilometers from Ribadesella. That seems so long ago. It was over two weeks ago, when we crossed the halfway point of the Camino.
Phillipe asks, "When will you be in Santiago, Martin?" I make the motion of flipping a coin and say, "Maybe Monday, Maybe Sunday. I am not sure yet. I will see how I feel in the morning." We are approximately 72 km (45 mi) from Santiago and the end of this part of the Camino. It is easily reachable within 3 days (Sunday). Alternatively, I could cut my kilometers back even further and finish in 4 days (Monday). Most folks at the table plan to stay in Sobrado des Monxes (munches) tomorrow night. The Albergue in Sobrado is a newly renovated monastery. Unfotuantely, it is only 15 km (9.3 mi) away. I tell Phillipe I'll sleep on it.
The meal is fantastic! Vegetable noodle soup, pork chops, bread, wine, and the best tarta de Santiago. Tarte de Santiago is an almond cake that is unique to this region. This one is fantastic! "This is like having dinner and staying at Grandma's house," says Sergio. He is right. It is like staying at Grandma's house. After dinner, everyone stays at the table, and we chat for a long while before finally turning. This is the first time everyone has stayed at the table after the meal. It is quite nice. The warmth of Grandma's house was what we all needed to make it happen.
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