Finisterre (Spain) | A Debt is Settled - Day 127

This picture is taken from the west side of the harbor at Cee. I began the morning walking north through the town of Cee, eventually making my way around the port.

Day 42 takes me from Cee to Finisterra (The Edge of the World). The stage is short, only about 17 km (10.5 mi) to Finisterra. However, the trail continues to the lighthouse on the peninsula's southern tip. This adds an additional 6 km (4 mi) roundtrip. The climbs are all gradual today.

Shortly after leaving Cee, I pass by Corcubíon, another small fishing village. This morning, I reflect on the emotional moments I had on the Camino.

I seem to have drawn a crowd this morning. I encountered these sheep a while back, and instead of running away, these crazy sheep follow me. I laugh each time I stop. The sheep also stop, then look away, avoiding eye contact with me, like they are pretending that they are not following me.  

Another day of fog and light drizzle. As I reflect on the Camino this morning, I have had a few more emotional moments than I first thought. As I recall each moment, I avoid defining them dualistically. There are no "highs and lows," no "good or bad" moments. There are just moments defined by the emotions I felt at the time. Sometimes I cried (e.g., when I shared things that were important to me), while other times, I laughed out loud in disgust (e.g., I ordered a cheesecake, and it tasted like I was french kissing a cow). There were days when I felt strong (e.g., Mondoñedo Mountain Climb) and vulnerable (e.g., Villaviciosa when I decided to let go of my rucksack). What stands out to me most on the Camino is that I had an overwhelming feeling of happiness every day. Some days it was the little things, the conversations, the photographs I took, the food I ate, the lessons of the Camino, or my health and well-being that made it easy to be happy. I have many things to be grateful for, and I have enjoyed every moment of this journey.

Fog is great for photos. I love how it blocks out nearly all the background behind the subject. This old abandoned building covered in ivy makes me think this picture belongs in some dystopian future rather than on the Camino.

Late in the morning, I walk up behind Nancy, Yosef, and Danielle (Brittany, France). We were nearly at the end of the stage, so I decided to chat with them for a while. We speak primarily French. Yosef kind of understands, but Daniel and I always take time to explain. Danielle always tries in French, bless her heart, and I share it in English. I laugh at how we often think that if someone doesn't speak our language, the person will understand us if we talk slower and louder.

Finally, I return to the ocean. The weather is a perfect mix of overcast, foggy, and drizzle. I would not trade it for the world as it reminds me of all my great coastal hikes, not just in Ireland or Wales.

Danielle insists that we take a photo, so after I take one of her, Nancy, and Yosef together, Danielle wants to return the favor. So Nancy (left, Yosef (middle), and I stop to take a photo.

A while later, the trail walks down to meet Playa de Langostiera. I tell the group I am stopping and plan to walk barefoot the rest of the way. Finisterra is visible in the distance.

After a quick stop to refuel, I walk across the beach along the edge of the surf. The beach is littered with seashells. One of the densest collections of shells I have seen. I notice razor clams, and various scallops, among other seashells.

Historically, people who walked to Finisterra would collect large scallop shells and attach them to their hats or backpacks to return home, proving visually they completed the journey. I am scanning the beach for one. Undoubtedly the tens of thousands of Pilgrims here before me have collected their share. Then, out of the side of my eye, I catch something flashing in the surf. Unreal! It is intact too! Fluttering in about 18 inches (45 cm) of water, I notice a huge colorful scallop shell (Coquilles St. Jacques). I reach down with my trekking pole and guide it to the beach. This is the original Compostela (i.e., proof) that I completed the journey. I am thrilled to have found this and a fitting exclamation point on this journey.

As I climb back to the trail, Karlina passes by and waves. I notice she is still with the same group from Lago. I am happy she found what she was looking for. It is good to have a group to share the Peregrino experience with. Even with one or two days left, depending on the individual, the Camino provides once again. Before reaching the town of Finisterra, I take one more look at the Playa de Langostiera. 

Before continuing to the lighthouse and KM 0 (0 mi) cairn, I stop by the Public Albergue before they close at 3 pm to get my Finisterrana. The official document for completing the Camino from Irun to Finisterra.

Then I follow the trail to the lighthouse, uphill for 3 km (2 mi). On the edge of town, I pass an old man with a white beard and wearing an orange jacket. He is handing out postcards, which he designed for a donation. I pull out 2 euros and hand them to him. He speaks French and begins to tell me his story. He is a pacifist who believes we should eliminate all the world's militias. This would force the world to adopt a common currency bringing a common experience to everyone. "If we let every person of sound mound vote for peace, 98% would vote for peace," he says. As I listen to him, some of his points resonate, but I am having difficulty connecting to the moment. As I take a step back, he takes two in my direction. Then I realize what is happening. I am not contributing anything to our interaction. He is merely lecturing me. I decide it is now time for us to part. He pulls out a small dish and shows it to me. Inscribed in it is the mantra "Om Mani Padme Um" and the words "Know Thyself and You Will Know the World and the Universe." The mantra is Buddhist. The words are a quote from Socrates. 

Nearing the end and approaching the lighthouse, this cross and clouds capture my attention. It is overcast and windy today, which adds to the dramatic feel of the photo.

Then I reach the final cairn on the road to Finisterra, KM 0. Woot! I have made it to Finisterra, but I am not yet at the end of the world, so I keep walking past the lighthouse.

Finally, I reach the edge of the cliffs below the lighthouse. Woot! Woot! One more day to go! When I arrive, Karlina is there with the little group she found along the way and offers to take a picture of me. 

People used to burn their shoes when they reached this point! However, nowadays, it is discouraged because burning shoes releases environmental toxins. This bronze boot commemorates the tradition above a rock charred from previous fires.

This view is on the south side of the lighthouse. I am looking north towards Finisterra.

The cliffs are stunning here. However, there are no beaches, just a rocky coastline with fog and overcast skies. Just the way it ought to be.

A few minutes later, I am heading back towards town when I notice a short blond woman walking towards the lighthouse. "Is this Martin," she says. Felicia! On my way to San Sebastian, I met Felicia on Day 1, late in the day. Felicia walked all the way from Germany and started in June. I followed her down into a hole, following the GR-30 trail instead of the Camino. "Don't you want to hike the coast," I remember Felicia saying? We then spent 45 minutes working our way back up a steep hill to the Camino. "When we get to San Sebastian, I will buy you a beer," Felicia said. Unfortunately, our paths diverged once we got to San Sebastian. She had plans with friends, and I needed to make a call to change my airline ticket. 

Is this a good time for that beer? I ask. "Wow! Absolutely. I thought I would never see you again," she says. We head back to the lighthouse and find the bar where Felicia finally settles her debt. We share our experiences on the Camino over a beer. Incredible, I thought seeing José Ramon after 20 days was terrific. It has been 41 days since I saw Felicia. I laugh. Everything except my shorts has changed, and she still recognized me. After the beer, we part ways once again.

On the way back into Finisterra, I take a photo of the small church where I had the conversation with the white-bearded pacificist.

After cleaning up and checking in, I head to dinner with Nancy and Yosef. There we meet Louis (Nova Scotia) and Françoise (France), Otto (Winnipeg), and Anna (Brazil). Louis is from the Acadian Region of Canada. I have a hard time understanding him at first, even though he speaks French due to his strong accent. The Acadians eventually settled in Louisianna and are better known these days as Cajuns. I notice when Louis speaks English, he sounds just like a Cajun. 

I am sitting next to Otto at the table, and he tells me a story about a gentleman he encountered on the trail. "I call him the Rooster. He is dressed in brilliant colors. I don't know anything about him, never met him, but I've been taking pictures of him for 3 days," says Otto. I pull out my phone and pull up the photo from earlier in the day at Finisterra. Does he look like this? That's me, I say. We laugh. "Well, that's the Camino for you. I'm sitting next to the Rooster for dinner." Below is one of the photos Otto took of me. I think it is one of my favorites, standing at the End of the World!