Les Escaldes (Andorra) | An Extraordinary Spa - Day 133-134

 

Located in Les Escaldes is Caldea, one of Europe's most extensive spa facilities and the tallest building in Andorra at 80 m (263 ft). The stunning facility is 6,000 sq. m (64,500 sq. ft.)

I am going to miss this breakfast buffet when I leave. It is my third day here, and apart from a few staples, fresh fruit, Serrano ham, and fresh cheese, they vary the dishes daily. I am finding, though, that, unlike the first morning, my body does not need nearly as much food before I feel full. This is a good sign, in my opinion.

Today, I plan to spend the afternoon at Caldea. The massive facility has several different types of resources, and I plan to take advantage of my time there. Notably, the words SSSPAAACTACULAR written outside the building are a reminder that the entire experience is a bit over the top.

When I arrive, I have two options: spend my time only in the more extensive boisterous kid-friendly Thermoludic section or pay to access the entire facility, including the quieter adult-only part, Inuu. The experience is terrific. I take advantage of everything Caldea has to offer. The thermal hot springs are tempered here and are not nearly as hot as I am used to, but I find them enjoyable at 34 C (93 F). However, the only thing missing here is a true hot pot with temperatures between 40 C (105 F) and 43 C (110 F). Caldera also has a section they call Origins. In this part, I can experience different spa treatments from around the globe. For example, the Aztec Bath, where I can walk on submerged river rocks designed to improve blood flow and stretch the tendons in my feet. There is also a Japanese-inspired grapefruit bath intended to improve exfoliation.

I experience nearly everything Caldea has to offer today, apart from their treatments (e.g., massages, facials, etc.). A little past 6 pm, I make my way for one last soak. I stop as I walk down the steps up, and the water reaches my knees. I reflect on my hesitation. The water doesn't feel nearly as warm as it was earlier in the day. I think I have finally reached the point where my body has had enough. So, I climb out and call it a day.

The Valira d'Orient River flows adjacent to Caldea in Les Escaldes and Andorra de Vella. It is the major river in the valley. Nowadays, a large portion of the river has been channelized using concrete to build an aqueduct-like channel for the river. This section is one that still looks relatively intact.

I seem to have brought the rain with me. Today the clouds hang low, and the rain falls steadily. Spending time indoors at Caldea was a good idea. As I leave the facility, I notice a lot of construction occurring in Andorra de Vella and Les Escaldes. I not only see giant cranes down at the bottom of the valley, but several are visible high up on the sides of the mountains. 

This is a typical site in Andorra. The sides of the mountains are consumed by large buildings. I am unsure if they are residential (e.g., condos, townhomes, etc.) or part of ski resorts, but they are visible in all directions above the towns.

On the right is a view looking northeast along the Valira d'Orient River. The river was raging today after the rain yesterday. I notice more large buildings clinging to the side of the mountains.

I spend the morning of my 4th day making travel arrangements. Today is my last full day in Andorra. Since I am nearing the end of my 90 days in the Schengen Via Area, I need to book my next destination. I plan to travel back to Madrid, spend a few days there and visit Borja. I've kept in touch with him throughout the Camino, and he keeps telling me what a spectacular city Madrid is. However, I cannot find an inexpensive flight out of Madrid until Wednesday morning. So my couple of days has been extended to four days. This is one of the perks of slow traveling without a schedule. When things don't go as planned, I can take advantage of the gift, and I'll spend some extra time Flâneuring my way through Madrid. 

According to Wikipedia, a Flâneur is an ambivalent figure of urban affluence and modernity, representing the ability to wander detached from society with no other purpose than to be an acute observer of industrialized, contemporary life. I was first introduced to the term a few years ago when listening to one of my favorite podcasts, "Solo - The Single Person's Guide to a Remarkable Life." The episode on Flâneuring resonated with me right away. What I enjoy most about being a Flâneur is experiencing the sights, sounds, smells, and people of a city, free of judgment. Letting the city consume my senses, my feet follow sites and fragrances as I purposefully wander without the obligation of trying to get to a destination. It's been nearly two months since I Flâneured with regularity, and I am excited about the opportunities ahead now that I am no longer walking the Camino. 

My morning is quickly consumed by making travel arrangements. A bus ticket from Andorra to Barcelona is 30 euros. A ticket from Barcelona to Madrid aboard a high-speed train is 60 euros. For accommodation in Madrid, I opt to stay in a hostel which only costs me 20 euros per night. I laugh as I think about how hard it is to leave the Peregrino culture behind. However, it's only for a few days and will save me quite a bit. Then I book my airplane ticket aboard Iberia Airlines to Dubrovnik, Croatia, for 70 euros. I plan to fly into Dubrovnik and explore the southern part of the Western Balkans (more on the Balkans in a future post). After doing a fair bit of research, I am excited about visiting this part of Europe that is inexpensive, culturally rich, safe, not well-known to North American tourists, and lies outside the Schengen Visa Area. It will be a spectacular adventure, unlike anything I have experienced thus far. The countries of Montenegro, Kosovo, North Macedonia, and Albany have some stunning sights and a beautiful coastline.

My afternoon is consumed with more time at the spa. First, I booked a 1-hour relaxation massage. Although my legs feel better today. My back is a different story. I still feel the repercussions of carrying a heavy rucksack most of the summer. Even though I still have knots in my trapezius muscles, they feel better today. After the massage, I spend more time in the Jacuzzi.

For the second day in a row, I take advantage of the evening to call my parents and loved ones back home. It feels really great to hear their voices. I realize how much I've missed our conversations and interacting with them while I was on the Camino. Finally, I round out my evening by doing some laundry before packing. 

My bus is set to leave in the morning from Andorra de Vella at 6 am. It is a 30-minute walk to the bus station from my hotel. So, I decide to have dinner at the hotel. What a great call this was. Dinner consists of a fresh salad with shrimp, mashed potatoes with duck confit, and a chocolate brownie. Eva, the waitress, has been taking special care of me. She recognized that I was spending several days at the hotel. On my second day, she said, "You are important now because you are my friend," as she relocated me to a window seat so I could enjoy the view of the Valira d'Orient River instead of a wall. Eva works incredibly long days. She starts her day at 7 am for the breakfast buffet and stays till after 11 pm working the dinner shift. Despite her long shifts, she is always smiling and a pleasure to have around. I love getting to know the staff of hotels when I stay there. When I spent 4-6 weeks in Mexico, I got to know several of the employees. My interactions with them and the stories we shared enriched our lives, allowing me to understand how everyday people live in the country I am visiting. Perhaps this is when I first fell in love with slow traveling and Flâneuring, although I didn't define it as such back then.