Berat (Albania) | A Mix of Cultures - Day 153

The Holy Trinity Orthodox Church is a beautiful example of Byzantine architecture built in the 15th Century inside the walls of Berat Castle.

Berat is located about 100 km (62 mi) south of Tirana. The city was designated as a UNESCO site in 2008 and is known for its unique style of architecture as well as the coexistence of many different cultures.

When I woke up this morning, I noticed that my low back was tight. I walked quite a bit yesterday and didn't stretch my legs before or after. To help me this morning, I leave the hostel and go for a brief walk. I am hoping to stretch things out by walking around. Twenty minutes late, Jerome contacts me and tells me he is ready to leave. After returning to the hostel, I stretch my calves, hamstrings, and the tightness in my back goes away.

The two of us head southwest to the car rental place around 930 am. Jerome made all the arrangements yesterday. The car rental will cost us 2,925 Lek (25 euros) per day."Easy Drive is where we need to go," Jerome says.

The rental experience is excellent! The man behind the counter shares his experience and tips for our trip. We take notes, mark some waypoints, then head out to the car. Our ride is a Skoda Fabia, a little hatchback. The compact Mercedes GLA 200 next to it, which I used to drive when I was married, looks enormous in comparison. We load up and head out of Tirana via the backroads.

The drive through the countryside of Albania is enjoyable. Traffic is light, but it is windy. Jerome slows down. I roll down the window and take a photo of the countryside. Albania is beautiful, there are always mountains in my view.

We arrive in Berat after an hour and a half drive. Berat is an interesting city where Christians and Muslims live together. The Christian village is on the left side of the river Lumi I Osumit. It is in the shadows on the left below. The Muslim part of town is on the right, in the sun. Finally, Berat Castle is on the hill to the right above the city.

After getting checked in, Jerome and I walk up the hill to explore Berat Castle. As we climb the mountain to the Castle, I take a moment to look back at the city of Berat. The view southeast from up here is fantastic. The scenic mountains in Albania do not seem to quit. 

On the Castle's west side, I notice a beautiful old archway that spans a trail leading away from the Castle. Unfortunately, the path is very steep. I tried several times to capture it, but the sun's angle made it challenging. So finally, I switched my setting to black and white. Voila!

The wall around Berat Castle is extensive. It is one of the largest I've seen. Notably, life within the walls continues today, as local Albanians still live in the many houses here. The fortification dates back to the 4th Century BC and has influences from multiple cultures. For Example, this is a ruin of the Red Mosque, built in the 15th Century. The Red Mosque was listed as a UNESCO site in 2005 as part of the historic sites in Berat.

The central courtyard is stunning. Unfortunately, the sun is at an angle that creates many shadows and washes out most of my photos. So, I decide to enjoy the site today and only take a few pictures.

The Holy Trinity Church Orthodox Church, also part of the UNESCO site, overlooks the valley to the west. Incredibly, this church has survived. Unfortunately, only 10 of the 30 Churches and Mosques within Berat Castle survived time. Albania was declared an Atheist country during Hoxha's Communist Regime (1976 to 1992). Consequently, many historic and modern places of worship were destroyed during this period. Fortunately, this fantastic church survived. Unfortunately, it is locked, so I cannot see the interior. 

Within the center of the Castle Walls is an enormous cistern. The minaret of the Red Mosque is still visible in the background of the picture. The massive rectangular vault still has water inside.

The interior of the cistern is impressive! Several visible arches support the left and right chambers. This is a photo of the left room. I estimate that the walls are nearly 12 m (40 ft) tall above the water. I toss a small rock into the black hole where the water is. It makes a loud, deep sound, telling me that the water is very deep.

The main entrance to the Castle faces east and is at the north end of the fortification.

On the west side, there is a massive bust. The inscription reads Constantine the Great. The statue stands at least 4.5 m (16 ft) tall and comprises several smaller stones.

After a long steep descent on the west side of the Castle, I find my way to Gorica Bridge which spans the Osum River. It is a beautiful representation of Ottoman Architecture. It connected the Christian and Muslim communities during the 18th Century. 

I walk with Jerome exploring Berat as the sun begins to set. It is barely past 4 pm. The surrounding mountains are all turning pink.

A few hours later, I head out with Jerome to grab dinner. I notice the town takes on a different feel when the lights are turned on.

This is the view looking east from the balcony of the Bed and Breakfast where I am staying. Behind the Mosque on the left is Christian Church. The white building on the right, which looks like a capitol, is a hotel.

The view looking west towards the Muslim village below the Castle is equally stunning.

When we return to the Bed and Breakfast, we chat with our hosts. Petrit (Peter), who speaks French, which he learned from school and listening to the radio. He tells of how he leased his house out for one year to oil and gas explorers a few years back. His wife was born in a house inside Berat Castle. Her family still lives there. Petrit has a garden that he is very proud of and shares that before Communist rule, it was twice as large. He unfortunately lost part of it when they built another house next to him under the Communist Regime. Finally, Petrit gives us some fresh Pomegrantes and Persimmons to enjoy. "Tomorrow we can look at my garden," he says. I thank him for the warm hospitality and head upstairs.