Krujë (Albania) | Apollonia - Day 159

Apollonia Archeological Park is one of the most extensive ancient sites in Albania. The site is 137 ha (338 ac) and is still being excavated today. This is an example of some ruins spread throughout the complex. It feels very raw and is the type of site that I enjoy visiting. However, I know that if I were to come back in 5-10 years, this active site would look very different. Most ruins lack informative signs and have only been partially excavated. This appears to be an ancient road with buildings on either side.

The plan today is to visit Apolonia and end the day in Krujë (cru-ja). It is a bit of a trek by car, as Krujë is north of Tirana. So Jerome and I decide to skip wandering around Vlorë this morning to ensure that we have enough daylight to take advantage of both sites. Apollonia was on my list of places to visit, and when we first discussed our trip, I told Jerome we needed to stop there. The ancient city is 48 km (30 mi) north of Vlorë and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Apollonia dates back to the 6th century BC and was founded by the Greeks. It remained an important city in Roman times before it was abandoned in the 4th century. Archeological excavations began in 1925 by French Archeologist Leon Ray. and continue to this day. The Portico ruins, pictured below, are extensive and have no exact parallel anywhere else in the world. The Portico functioned similarly to a plaza with the semi-round alcoves placed against the hillside. 

The iconic site at Apollonia is the Monument to Agonothetes, built in the 2nd century AD and restored by an Albanian team in 2005. The monument functioned as the municipal council meeting building during roman times. The building is an excellent representation of Albanian period architecture and is unique to this area.

The city's cistern and water supply were situated here on this partially excavated site. I always find it interesting when visiting ruins. Archeologists must walk a fine line when unearthing ruins. Often they must leave the soil in place to preserve the site's integrity. The last thing they would want is to remove the dirt and have walls or other structures fall over. As a visitor, I wish they would reveal more. The more I see, the more I want to understand the form, function, and culture when I visit sites like these.

On the far west side are the remains of a large amphitheater. The site appears to be prepared for restoration. I noticed all the pieces have been sorted and stacked. I have no idea how long ago this occurred, not how long they will remain here before finally being placed. Sites like this are giant jigsaw puzzles. I remember watching a similar process being used in Egypt. They scanned every block or column and used a computer to piece the puzzle together. Then, archeologists spend the whole day, sometimes multiple days, adding a single piece to their puzzle to unlock the mystery. I wonder if a similar process is being used here.

Another fascinating part of Apollonia is this site was a strategic place for Communist bunkers in the 1960s, as it is only 10 km (6.2 mi) from the Adriatic Sea. After taking several pictures, I learned that > 400 bunkers were installed at this location. While doing so, they damaged portions of the ancient city of Apollonia. Like the rest of the site, however, there are no signs describing the form or function of the bunkers. North of this strange circular bunker, I notice another QZ bunker that sits just at the edge of the hill.

Further east, I find many strange bunkers. They are all connected by covered concrete trenches. Some are < 30 m (100 ft) others are considerably longer. These forms are odd, and I can only speculate that in the past they had some kind of temporary natural covering to conceal them better. 

"It's crazy how much concrete they poured," says Jerome. Right? What a colossal waste of resources, I say. This large circular, covered bunker is now being used as a shelter for domestic animals by a local farmer. We discuss how much concrete has been poured into the world, mostly as part of military endeavors.

A few hours later, Kruja comes into sight. So the distance wasn't that far. However, the going is slow when getting in and out of cities. In Albania, there are very few traffic lights to help with traffic flow.

The Bed and Breakfast, hosted by a local family, is located at the highest point in the old city. The yellow building is the Bed and Breakfast, and to the left is a historic church tower that is under renovation. "My father makes this Rakija. It is made from grapes. A welcome drink for you. You sip this, Rakija," the young man says. The Raki, as it is commonly referred to, is quite tasty because it is only 40% alcohol. Those with higher alcohol content taste terrible to me. 

The view of the mountains from the room is fantastic. Unfortunately, the weather is supposed to turn, and already the clouds are starting to roll in.

This beautiful Castle is actually a museum. It was constructed in the 1980s in a traditional Albanian style and now hosts a museum of Albanian History. Skanderberg is a prominent fixture inside, as are various artifacts and reproductions of the period. Krujë was the capital of the Kingdom of Albania through the Middle Ages until it was conquered by the Ottoman Empire in the 15th century. Skanderberg retook the city and defended against three sieges by the Ottoman Empire until 1468 AD when he died. Ten years later, the city fell during a fourth siege.

Adjacent to the old city is the Old Bazaar. This one feels more "touristy" with many shops selling the same items in mass quantities. Several business owners invite me in, looking to drum up business. I thank them and keep walking. I have never been much for collecting souvenirs while I travel.  

Inside the city near the top, a beautiful cobblestone street winds its way past the remnants of an old mosque. Only the minaret stands now.

The road is incredibly well-built. It is built on a hill and has two features I have not seen on other streets. First, there is a recessed gutter in the middle to channel water. Second, it is built in tiers or sections that mimic giant steps. The raised areas are evident in the picture below.

Dinner is prepared by the Matriarch, the young man's mother. The traditional meal consists of (left to right), Marinated feta with tomatoes, Potato spinach byrek, Fried potatoes, Rice wrapped in vine leaves, Tazitki sauce, Mixed salad, Olives, Two different byrek, and a baked feta dish. In addition, they bring out lamb meatballs, pork steak, and chicken skewers. Lastly, they bring out Hasude, a traditional pudding-like dessert made from water and cornstarch.

The meal tastes delicious! I love these types of meals. It doesn't matter if it is tapas, pinxiots, or dinner like this. I am learning that I much rather eat a variety of things from small plates than a single dish like most everywhere else. It is even better when I can share the meal with great company. This is something I need to do more of in the future.