Prishtinë (Kosovo) | A Fragile Country - Day 166

The bus station in Prizren, Kosovo. Unlike in Albania, there is a central bus depot in each city in Kosovo. The buses are private charters that operate as public transportation.

Last night, I thanked Rita and wished her the best with her Fullbright Opportunity since I wasn't going to see her today. Unfortunately, the weather got the best of us yesterday, and we could not make it to the mountain cabin. The weather is predicted to be the same, high probability of rain the rest of the week, so I decided to move on today to Prishtinë (pristina).

Boarding buses in Kosovo is easy. I find the bus with the destination I am looking for in the bottom right corner of the windshield. This is where they display the destination cards. I don't need to buy a ticket to board. That comes later once we are on the road. The 2-hour bus ride to Prishtinë costs me 5 Euros.

I look forward to a change in scenery and a chiropractor appointment I made yesterday. When Jayden and I were out for dinner earlier in the week, he referred me to a chiropractor he'd seen several times in Prishtinë. I remember Jayden saying, "He is amazing and works wonders." It's been 6 months since my last adjustment. I was out of alignment when I left the United States, so this appointment will do me good.

The walk from the bus station in Prishtinë to the chiropractor takes me about 35 minutes. Everything fell into place. The chiropractor's office is on the way to my Airbnb near the city center. Then, I pass a familiar but strange site shortly after leaving the bus station. A replica of the Statue of Liberty stands on top of a hotel building. Undoubtedly, it is a tribute to the support the United States has given Kosovo in its quest for independence.

"Have you had a full body adjustment before?" asks Okii Shoku, my chiropractor. But wait. What does that mean here in Kosovo? I ask. "I use a mix of Chinese, Japanese, Korean, and Thai techniques. I learned them all from the masters," he continues. Okii Shoku leaves little doubt that his techniques are different from what I am used to. "I don't see a need to see a patient for more than three appointments max," he says.

Nevertheless, when he finishes, I feel great. A bit sore, but that is expected. "We are finished today. Let's go grab a cup of coffee," he says. I haven't drunk coffee in 25 years, but I'll join you for tea. We walk across the street to a cafe and begin talking about Kosovo. "Prishtinë is a good place for me. I was born in Sköpje (scope-yah), Macadonia. I have been here 28 years," he says. Okii Shoku is referring to the capital of North Macedonia. No one uses "north or pronounces it as massadonia" when referring to the country in the Balkans. 

"Our government is still young and developing. They are missing opportunities because they are overwhelmed with all the choices on what to do. So many things are not getting done," Okii says. It has been less than 25 years since Kosovo declared its independence, right? I ask. "Yes, In 1999, we became an independent country, but not everyone recognizes us. Unfortunately, the Serbians and Russians still refuse to recognize Kosovo. It is because the Russians would like to claim the Balkans. But the conflict with Ukraine has shown they are much weaker than they thought. They cannot afford to fight multiple fronts and reclaim the Balkans after the war with Ukraine," he says. I say that everyone is surprised that the conflict in Ukraine has lasted this long. Soon after his phone rings, it is his daughter and assistant. "I need to go. I have another patient," he says. 

This conversation today highlights how fragile independence in Kosovo is. I also remember reading a story in the news this morning before I boarded the bus. Conflicts between Serbia and Kosovo over license plates are continuing to escalate. Serbs in Kosovo refuse to give up their Serbian license plates dating back to pre -1999. Tensions are high, and the EU fears that conflict could escalate again in the coming days. I sent Jerome a heads-up since he was planning to head to Serbia. Neither of us plans to be near the border, so let's hope cooler heads prevail. I'll keep an eye on it over the next few days.

I head for my apartment and pass this strange-looking building. It is the Kosovo National Library and has been called one of the ugliest buildings in the world. I strangely find it appealing, though I will say it feels out of place here. Perhaps this is why so many call it an ugly building. I think it is too futuristic for the city. It looks like something I would expect in a dystopian future. Perhaps that is why it appeals to me, since I am a fan of the genre. I need to return to this building in the coming days.

Near the library, I pass the Christ the Savior Serbian Orthodox Church. I notice it looks unfinished. Construction on the Church began in 1992 and was set to be completed in 1999. However, construction was never completed when the Serbian-Kosovo War broke out in early 1998. So now it sits as an empty shell with no road or parking lot nearby. A reminder that this is a young country. I like this photo. The Church looks like a relic in a dystopian future and a place where the good guys would find refuge. The Church is dominated by giant concrete domes, and nature has started reclaiming it. It never ceases to amaze me how much concrete we pump into the world.

Later on my way to dinner, I see another reminder that Kosovo is grateful for the support of the United States. An American flag flies next to the Kosovo flag in front of the Youth Sports Complex. The building has a striking futuristic skyline.

Even though it is raining, several people are still near Skanderbeg Square. Like in Tirana, Albania, Prishtinë also has a sculpture of the national hero on horseback.

Passing by shops, I laugh at the familiar sign advertising the Black Friday sale. There is no Thanksgiving here in Kosovo. Nevertheless, some stores are advertising up to 70% off. It appears that Kosovo is adopting more than statues and American flags. Consumerism, and perceived value shopping, are at the top of the list here too.