Prizren (Kosovo) | Inside a Mosque - Day 163

 

The Sinan Pasha Mosque is the oldest in Prizren. Construction started in 1600 AD, four years after the great Albanian statesman Sinan Pasha died. It was completed in 1614 AD and was built in the traditional Ottoman-Style.

I begin my morning, while the skies are clear of rain, by visiting the Turkish Baths or Hammans. The beautiful domed building can easily be mistaken for a Mosque. The white minaret behind the bathhouse is part of a separate building. The Emin Pasha Mosque is across the street north of the bathhouse. The Hamman was built between 1560 and 1573 AD. I hear it is the largest Hamman in Kosovo and is quite stunning. Unfortunately, this is as close as I can get. The building is under renovation.

After leaving the Hamman, I walk over to the Sinan Pasha Mosque. When I arrived, I noticed two things. First, the door was locked, which caused me to hesitate. Then I see a woman looking back at me on the front steps. She waves me up the stairs and begins unlocking the Mosque.

She begins removing her shoes, and I do the same. I was prepared to remove my shoes, as I know the Muslim tradition. Shoes are considered dirty and never worn on mosques or houses' interiors. However, I was not prepared for the interior to be carpeted. The interior is beautifully decorated and simple. It feels like a humble place to worship. I take my time admiring the decorations and walking around the room. I always respect places of worship by keeping my camera in my pocket.

As I near the entryway, the woman insists I take pictures before leaving. I am grateful for the opportunity to visit the interior. The red carpet is spotless, feels great underfoot, and has simple decor.

Each window is decorated. The abundance of windows keeps the space well-lit. This starkly contrasts Christian and Catholic Churches from the same period, which are dark and lack windows. 

The central dome is beautifully decorated. The interior of the Mosque feels like it has a purpose, prayer. It is not intended to make a person feel small. Instead, the space feels useful.

The artwork on the dome includes verses from the Quran. Additional information on the Sinan Pasha Mosques are located here.

A while later, an older Albanian man arrives at the Hostel. He begins pouring Rakija and offers a glass to all the staff and me. Issey (iss-ee), a young Japanese man is working at the Hostel and sitting across from me. He likes the Raki. Have you ever tried Boza? I ask. That sets off a conversation with the old man, who turns out to be the owner's father. Rita, his daughter, is a paraplegic and runs the Hostel. "We can go to the best Boza in town," he says. I'd like to see where you buy it. I say I had some the other night, but I have no idea where it was purchased. Soon we are heading out the door with Isi to get some Boza. Unfortunately, it's pouring rain again.

Along the way, we pass what appears to be a newly discovered archeological site. The ruins appear to be the foundation of some sort. Sting has been set up to grid the area and help with systematic searches. I also noticed some locals who gathered to watch the process. This tells me the activities here are relatively recent, as the novelty has not worn off yet.

The Boza is fantastic and just as good as the other night. Rita's dad shows us his businesses along the way, one of which is a liquor store. I am not a good Muslim. I drink. I need to sample my product to make sure it is good to sell," he laughs. Muslims are not supposed to consume alcohol. However, many Muslims in this area do not follow all the guidance.

Rita's dad and I continue our conversation when we arrive back at the hosel. "We built this Hostel for Rita. She loves to travel, but it is hard for her. The Hostel allows her to do what she likes. She gets to visit with people from around the world," he says. "Most hostels are converted from old houses. Here we bought an old house, destroyed it, and then built a building intended to be a hostel," he continues. It is apparent. as it is beautiful. I can tell there is a real purpose behind the space. It was well-designed.

Have you considered replicating this and opening a franchise in one of the other cities like Pejë (pay-yah) or Prishtina (pristina). This would allow you to secure clients for their whole stay in Kosovo. Travelers are always looking for great hostels that are clean. I say you have a concept here that would work as a chain. I see his eyes light up. "I had never considered that. This is good to be talking with you from Canada and United States. You think differently than us Albanians and see opportunities that we miss. We would have to do it after Rita finishes her Master's," he says.

Despite being wheelchair-bound, Rita is working on her Master's in Tourism. This May, she applied for and received a Fullbright Scholarship to study abroad in the United States. Her Scholarship includes all expenses while she lives in America for one year. "I am excited to go to America with her. We have been before and want to go again," her dad says. Do you know the school or state she will be in? I ask. "In December, she will get a list of 4 schools and pick one," he says. We continue chatting about the great opportunity for both of them. "I want you to come up to our house in the mountains. You can give me ideas on what we can do there. We'll wait for Rita to get here." he says. 

Rita finally arrives and joins us. Her dad looks at his watch. "It's too late now to go today. When do you leave? Can we go Monday?" he asks. I look back at the front desk, where Issey is, and ask him, Is there room if me to stay a few more nights? "Yes," he replies. I turn to Rita and her dad and say, done. We can go Monday. It's good to be me. I don't need to be anywhere and can stay a few days extra when opportunities like this present themselves.

After her dad leaves, Rita shares a few more places to visit while I am here in Prizren. Places that not many people visit. These are perfect. These are the kinds of places I love to see. Thank you, I say to Rita. "No problem. We'll catch up later. I have a few things to take care of.

I leave the Hostel to take advantage of the last hour of daylight in the rain. Serbian Orthodox Church of the Holy Mother of God is a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Church has a complex history that is quite fascinating. Built in the 14th century, they converted a Byzantine Church into a Mosque by erecting a minaret in the 15th century. Later under the Yugoslavian rule, it saw extensive restoration and reconstruction. Finally, it functioned as a museum sometime later.

Unfortunately, it was set on fire in 2004 during the civil unrest. Today the Church is closed to the public, evidenced by the locked gates and barbed wire. This is the first UNESCO site I have visited, surrounded by barbed wire. It is unfortunate as the Church once contained beautiful frescos inside. Now it feels like an empty shell.

The other sites I try to visit, the Archeological Museum and the Old Community Theatre, are both closed. I'll try again tomorrow.

For dinner, I head back to the Noja, the vegetarian restaurant. This time I order mixed salad and Menemen. Menemen is a Turkish scrambled egg dish with peppers and tomatoes. The other night Aby said it was one of his favorite dishes. Wow! Another culinary discovery. This dish is fantastic. The scrambled eggs are subtle. It tastes like cheesy roasted peppers and tomatoes, almost like a vegetarian lasagna without noodles.