Prizren (Kosovo) | Islamic Rounds? - Day 162

 The Prizren Fortress is visible high up on the mountain. The view is east along the Prizren River.

This morning, I am starving and looking for something different. I find a waffle and smoothie bar that is just my speed. The waffle is loaded with fresh fruit and Nutella. Europeans love Nutella! It is widespread and easy to find. I like it with crepes or waffles and fresh bananas. My smoothie is not really a smoothie. It is basically fresh fruit juice, which I enjoy nevertheless. I am accustomed to a thicker smoothie consistency from using some frozen ingredients, like bananas, as the base. This morning's juice has fresh hand-squeezed oranges, ginger, lemons, and pomegranates.

"Have you been to the Fortress yet? If not, you need to go after the waffle. The view is amazing!" says the man behind the counter. I remember that I was on the fence about visiting the Fortress. I feel as though I have seen many fortresses located on a hill over the last couple of weeks. Nearly every town I've visited has one. And although each is slightly different, they are all similar. Like visiting churches and museums, I believe a person could spend a lifetime only visiting only one genre of structures if they wanted to. I recall that the Prizren Fortress has a unique history that is less complicated than the others I've visited. Therefore, it might be an excellent opportunity to enjoy the architecture of the Byzantine and Ottoman Empires. I tell the man since it is not raining, I think it would be a good time to go.

The man at Gazza Waffle Depot was right. The view up here is fantastic! The fall colors are gorgeous! Unfortunately, the sky is dark grey, and I know rain is in the future. The Serbian Orthodox Church of the Holy Savior is in the bottom right of the picture. Built in 1330 AD and is protected by the Republic of Serbia as a Monument of Culture of Exceptional Importance. Unfortunately, today, the gate near the historic church is locked because the church was heavily damaged during civil unrest in 2004. 

Looking west across Prizren, I notice the highest density of Mosques I have seen in my travels. Although Kosovo does not have an official religion, about 95% are Muslim, followed by Roman Catholic (2.2%) and Orthodox (1.5%) religions. However, the majority of people in Kosovo are only nominally associated with religion and do not attend regular services or pray 5 times per day. It's similar to being Catholic or Christian in North America. People attend only a few essential services while following traditions. In this case, it is fasting for Ramadan. Despite this, I notice that in the immediate vicinity, I count nearly 20 Mosques. If I include the minarets, I can see the number almost triples in the distance. From this vantage point, I also notice within proximity of some Mosques, I can see Christian Churches that are often very close to the Mosques, though they are not nearly as abundant.

The Prizren Fortress was built by the Byzantine Empire in the 6th century. For more than 600 years, the Byzantine Empire controlled the Fortress. Then the Serbian Dynasty held it for about 150 years before the Ottoman Empire seized it in 1,450 AD. During the next 450 years, the Turks fortified the walls and built many structures in the interior.

Some structures have been restored, like the arches in the photo's background. Others are original, like the structure in the foreground. The restored structures are easy to identify due to the presence of cement. Nevertheless, the buildings are stunning, and I enjoy Ottoman architecture. 

When I reach the easternmost point of the Fortress, I notice the peak in the distance already has snow. A reminder that winter is nipping at my heels.

At noon, the loudspeakers attached to the minaret of the Mosques come alive. One by one, they turn on. Each begins chanting prayers for the noon hour. Like singing rounds, the first Mosque begins. Then one after another, the chants begin. The peak is nearly deafening from up here. Then, the chants begin tapering off about 10 minutes later. It is strangely amazing to listen to the cacophony of chants below. Unlike singing rounds, though, each Mosque has its own unique prayers. At least, it sounds that way to me. Each chant is noticeably different. The view of Prizren is incredible from here. 

Once the prayers conclude about a quarter past noon, I head back down the hill to Prizren. This was quite an experience to hear the noon prayer from the Fortress above the town. 

I return to town, walk by the Sinan Pasha Mosque, and notice the prayer continues. The Mosque is packed. Those unable to find room inside remove their shoes and join the ritual by standing on the porch. The porch is also packed, though I notice a few men arriving late can find room. Although both men and women are encouraged to attend, I see only men leaving the Mosque today.

Later, after dinner, I take advantage of the lull in the rain to take a few pictures after dark. The Prizren Fortress is visible on the hill.

The Sinan Pasha Mosque near the Prizren River is a beautiful Ottoman-Style Mosque built in 1615 AD. I plan to visit the interior of the Prizren's most famous Mosque tomorrow. I am looking forward to seeing the inside of a Mosque. I have visited many Christian and Catholic Churches but have yet to wander into a Mosque. I will change this tomorrow as I know that visitation is encouraged at the Sinan Pasha Mosque.