Shkodër (Albania) | Pump the Brakes - Day 145

Tobacco Shops in Montenegro are everywhere. But, really, they are like a small convenience store where a person can find a variety of things, including SIM cards for cell phone.

After packing my things, I head to the bus station and board the bus around 11 am. I frequently share how difficult it is to take pictures from the bus, as the windows are seldom clean. Today, the windows are filthy.

The bus begins to climb into the mountains, leaving Budva, and I take a photo from the shady side of the bus near the city of Cetinje, Montenegro. The mountains are beautiful in Montenegro, and the road is relatively flat once we are on top. My bus ride today will be around 3 hours.

The border crossing leaving Montenegro goes smoothly. This time, instead of photographing the infrastructure at the border, I take a picture of Lake Skadar and the shallow wetlands in the lake's southern finger. The area is teaming with waterfowl and waterbirds. Most are too far away to identify, but I notice ducks, herons, and some smaller wading birds. The area is beautiful. Perhaps I can spend a little time exploring Lake Skadar since Shkodër is located near its western edge.

I feel high in the mountains when I look at the surrounding landscape. However, a quick check of my phone tells me we are 60 m (200 ft) above sea level. I am surprised we are this low.

The border crossing into Albania is somewhat lax. The bus driver collects everyone's passport, and we all wait on the bus this time. A short time later, the driver boards the bus and drives a short distance. He pulls the bus over and hands everyone their passport. "Can you show me where the Albanian stamp is," the young man beside me says? There isn't one. It appears they only scanned the passport but did not stamp them, as I don't have one either. "They don't stamp passports here," says another passenger. The scenic mountains continue as we enter Albania.

The bus stops in Shkodër around 230 pm near this beautiful Mosque. Before heading to my hostel, I take a photo.

There are several things I notice now that I am in Albania. First, the buildings are much older and a bit run down. Second, there are dogs everywhere in the street. Most look like they are strays. Some have ear tags. I need to find out more about why they have ear tags. Third, there is thrash everywhere in the streets. Lastly, English is very common here. The picture below is the main street on the way to my hostel. I decided to stay in a hostel here to connect with people. In reflecting on my time in France, I recall that I missed having that social connection, so while I am in the Balkans, I want to balance this better.

When I check in at the hostel, Alicia (host) says, "I see you booked for four nights. Let's get you checked in then we can discuss your schedule. In four days is our last night. We are closing for the season." After getting my key, she shows me to my room of four. 

After stashing my things and settling in, I head back down to find Alicia to learn more about my schedule. "We have a tour to Theth. To get there, we arrange all your lodgings and transport. It takes 2.5 days. From Valbona, you hike 6-8 hours to Theth," Alicia says. Then she lays out the entire schedule on the back of a city map. "Shall I book it for you," she says. Let me think about it. When do I need to tell you? I say.

I am feeling a bit overwhelmed at the moment. I was counting on relaxing this evening. If I go on this trip, I have quite a bit of preparation to do to so I can leave by 630 am. I decide to reflect on my hesitation over dinner.

After getting a SIM card, I head to a local restaurant recommended by the hostel. This time it costs me 15 euros for 8 GB of data for 1 month. Albania uses Euros and the Albanian Lek interchangeably, which surprises me.

So what is my hesitation here? Theth National Park is on my list. But I felt myself pushing back rather than leaning into this timely opportunity. I sit with the discomfort a bit while doing some additional research. I have a list of things I'd like to do in Shkodër, and a 3-day commitment to Theth will require me to alter my plans. That's my hesitation. It is the reason why I am pushing back. Alicia was trying to help me. But to me, it felt like I was a guest on my adventure and being told where to go. I remember feeling this way at times this summer. When I finished dinner, I decided that my hesitation was triggered by a previous experience and was unwarranted. If I miss the opportunity to go to Theth tomorrow, I will miss the opportunity that has presented itself today. The other places on my list will be here when I return.

Restaurant Fisi prepares traditional Albanian food and it is inexpensive, according to the hostel. I order Goulash, a beef stew, homemade bread, and a local beer.

I also ordered Tavë Kosi, a traditional Albanian baked dish consisting of sour cream, cheese, and lamb. It is delicious! The whole meal costs me 1,080 Albanian Lek (about 9 euros). As I leave the table, I run into two other travelers from the hotel. "How was it," asks the man. It was good. Where are you from? I say. "I am from Québéc and you," he says. I switch to French. When I do, Jerome and I instantly connect. Siem is from the Netherlands and also arrived today. "Are you going on the trip tomorrow?" Jerome asks. I felt overwhelmed with information at the hostel. But after having dinner, I decided I am going. I need to run some errands to prepare for tomorrow's trip. I'll see you both in the morning. Then I leave them to enjoy dinner.

Shkodër by night is quite lovely. As people collect in the streets to frequent restaurants, I notice the stray dogs appear to have disappeared. The ear tags help officials identify vaccinated strays from unvaccinated strays. I spend the next while walking to the ATM and grocery store. Then I pack my small bag for tomorrow's trip.

I haven't seen much of Shkodër today, so I decide to revisit the Mosque as I can see its white towers in the distance. It looks fantastic tonight!

Before I call it a night, I meet Celeste (Netherlands), Max (Australia), who are my roommates. They are also going on the trip tomorrow. I set my alarm for 530 am. As I fall asleep, I remember that it is good to pump the brakes once in a while to check in with myself.