Tirana (Albania) | A Surprising City - Day 152

I took this photo at Shkodër Castle a few days ago and didn't post it, as I had several others I liked better. However, this one shows the extent of the city below the northern wall which overlooks Shkodër.

Today, I am heading to Tirana, the capital of Albania. I head west of the Ebu Beker Mosque to find a bus heading south. I visit both sides of the street and can't find a sign or any buses that would be large enough for the 2.5-hour bus ride to Tirana. Finally, I remember that the Hostel had previously told me that buses start from different locations in Shkodër, depending on the destination. So, I stopped at the visitor center and asked where to catch the bus to Tirana. The gal tells me the next bus is at 11 am, and the pick-up point is further west.

It is 945 am, and there was supposed to be a 10 am bus this morning. But it appears to be canceled, and I will have to settle for the only available bus at 11 am. This is one of the things that makes Albania a bit more tricky to travel in. The bus system is archaic by today's standards. First, drivers never collect money. Instead, a " fare collector " walks up and down the aisle to collect fees. Second, you can flag a bus and climb aboard so long as it is safe for the driver to pull over. Third, there are no printed or internet schedules which makes it challenging to determine arrival and departure times outside of word of mouth. And lastly, the buses appear to be operated by private entities rather than a single bus company. This makes it difficult to know which is the correct bus simply by looking at it.

Around 11 am, we begin heading south of Shkodër. The bus makes several stops along the way. So when the bus pulls over south of Lezhe, I pay no attention. After about 10 minutes, I notice the passengers around me getting up. What is happening? "The bus is broken. We have to take another one," says a young woman in front of me. Shortly after, a much smaller bus arrivess. We all climb aboard. This time, it is standing room only on the bus. I spend the next hour standing. Just when I think the bus can't possibly take on more people, it stops again, and more people climb aboard.

When we arrive in Tirana at the bus depot, which is more of a large parking lot, I can't get off the bus fast enough. I check my phone. I am 5 km (3.5 mi) from the city center. I've never seen so many buses and so little organization before. It appears to me to be an absolute disaster. Perhaps this is only because I am unfamiliar with their system. Nevertheless, it's time to start walking.

Tirana is located in the middle of Albania. It is the largest city, with approximately 1 out of 3 Albanians residing in the town. Only 3 M people inhabit Albania, which has a land mass slightly larger than the State of Vermont in the United States.

Although I am on the outskirts of Tirana, I find the view quite nice. The bus parking lot is nowhere near the center of town. It is a beautiful day (21 C; 70 F)

After getting settled at the Blue Door Hostel and meeting up with Jerome, I briefly head out to explore the city before dinner and find my way to Skanderbeg Square. This is interesting. Everywhere I look, I see new modern buildings and tall skyscrapers next to ancient buildings. I love how none of the towers are uniform or rectangular.

South of the square, I encounter the beautiful Resurrection of Christ Greek Orthodox Cathedral. It is unlike any other cathedral I have seen previously.

This view of the Cathedral is looking back north. Here you can see the beautiful tower.

Only a few hundred meters from the Orthodox Church is an Et'hem Bej Mosque in Skanderbeg Square. In the southern portion of the square is a giant bronze statue of Gjergi Skanderbeg (circa 15th century). Skanderberg is often called the Dragon of Albania and led several successful campaigns against the Ottoman Empire to free Albania. Skanderberg was also the first to take the double-headed dragon, now the Albanian flag, as his own flag.

During dinner, Jerome tells me that Tirana was named the European Youth Capital for 2022. I can't wait to come back to Tirana to explore it further. But it will have to wait for now. Jerome and I leave for Berat in the morning.