Naples (Italy) | Pulcinella - 9 Apr, 2023

 

The streets of Napoli are decorated in blue and white. Ribbons hang across the streets everywhere. The Napoli soccer team is the 2022/2023 Champions of Italy. Seeing the decorations adds color and character to the streets.

Naples (Napoli) is not one of the more popular places to visit in Italy. It is often overlooked for other destinations like the Amalfi Coast in southern Italy. Leaving the train station and I notice the architecture is noticeably different here. In many ways, I prefer it over Rome. I enjoyed Rome a lot. However, the city buildings were somewhat muted and uninspiring. Napoli's buildings have more color, yellows, reds, pinks, and oranges, and the forms have more variance, which I enjoy more.

After spending nearly a week in Rome, I only spent a few days in Naples. The old city is a UNESCO World Heritage site that includes many culturally important churches, several palaces of natural beauty (Mt. Vesuvius), and historically significant nearby towns like Herculaneum and Pompeii. Naples is an hour's train ride from Rome. Located on the western coast of Italy, the city is north of the famous Amalfi Coast.

My first order of business was to find my way down to the port. It felt great to reconnect with the ocean. A peaceful and calm sensation rises within me whenever I am near the sea. I love this feeling, and it often feels like I have found home regardless of where I am. It's a tranquility and calmness that I continue to experience even though I've spent many months near the ocean now. But, again, this happens regardless of where I am. I plan to explore more of the southern Italian coastline on this trip.  

Castle dell'Ovo is the oldest of three castles in Naples. Although the castle is closed and unavailable during my visit, I still enjoy passing by it. 

Surprisingly, I don't feel a strong desire to visit what few historic sites are in the city of Naples. I feel drawn instead to flaneur my way around the city. I need to experience this city by connecting with my senses. This is how I like to share the culture and the people. I love seeing ancient sites. However, I need more to help me experience the current culture. Instead, it's things like finding restaurants where the locals eat, visiting shops that display local artisan crafts, and even visiting churches. These are places where locals gather, and that makes me 😀. 

I spend much of my time wandering around the narrow streets. Scooters are the preferred means of travel here. The streets are barely wide enough for a car or two scooters. I frequently need to step aside to let them through. One that is remarkable is that scooters are for everybody. The operators are young and old, male and female, with and without helmets and with and without passengers. It is quite a site to see. However, scooters make a lot of noise. Beep, beep as they weave in and out of pedestrians. The exhaust, motors, and rattling from the cobblestone streets are constant. I find it challenging to find a place without continual noise in this city. 

Along one of the quiet streets I pass, I notice this villa. I step into the courtyard to admire it. It's serene here. I love the orange walls. This would be an excellent color for a living room. The green plants and purple vines near the top help balance the space. The double staircase adds charm.  

Naples is the home of Pizza. It is where this popular dish was invented. The Pizza in Naples has a beautiful crust that is round and is cooked in a wood fire oven. The crust is also very pliable and has a delicate spongy but not tough texture. It's amazing! By contrast, the Pizza I had in Rome had a thin, firm rectangular crust consistent with oven-baked pizzas. Wood-fired Pizza has a fantastic taste! And there is something incredible that happens with the dough's texture. My first Pizza in Naples is a Mozzarella, Gorgonzola, Walnut, and Basil creation on an olive oil base. Oh my, goodness, was this good! These are ingredients that I would never have assembled for a Pizza.

Nevertheless, it is hands down now my favorite Pizza, followed by the PIzza the hotel manager made for me in Lourdes, France. Incidentally, that Pizza was wood-fired. Unfortunately, I forgot to take a picture of this amazing pie!😒

I discover a vast outdoor farmer's market-like neighborhood. The streets are lined with vendors selling fresh produce as well as seafood. This vendor's arrangement is unique because many shellfish and cephalopods are still alive. I notice that a filtration system has been installed in the pans and circulates oxygenated water into the pans to keep the critters alive. Cuddlefish, octopus, squid, and clams, of various sizes. Many are also presented in traditional formats on the ice next to various fish. I love seafood! The salty air and fish odor make me want to purchase and start cooking. I notice there is a desire within me to live in a place where instead of going to a grocery store, I can make fresh purchases like this regularly and frequently.

One of the more curious things I see in Naples is this statue of Pulcinella. The link explains why Pulcinella is essential to the culture of Naples. However, what catches my eye is the line of people waiting to rub or touch Pulcinella's giant phallic nose. I watch curiously as, one after another, people stroke, grope, and fondle his bronze nose. Tradition says that partaking in this activity brings good luck to those who do.

Next, I am headed to Sorrento and the Amalfi Coast, across the bay from Naples. I hope the weather improves. Thus far, the weather has been pleasant and sunny. However, when it is overcast, the wind blows strongly. Most of my gear will keep me warm enough, but I sure do miss the sunshine.