Naples (Italy) | Pizza Chef - 5 June, 2023

 

The Camera di Commercio (Chamber of Commerce) in Naples looks fantastic, lit up in the national colors. Unfortunately, the colors only last briefly before the lights switch to an all-blue version. I prefer this version. I have yet to take many photos at night on this trip. The evenings have been too cold to wander around after the sun sets.

Returning to Naples feels better than I expected. The weather has made a massive improvement in how the city feels. Not only is it more illuminated, but many more people are moving about. The last time I was here, it was overcast, windy, cold, and it rained. I was hoping for something else from Italy. Nevertheless, that appears to have changed for the better.

One thing that has stayed the same is the craziness on the streets. Naples is a busy place with scooters, buses, and cars all maneuvering for the right of way. It makes me happy to be afoot.

As I wander around Naples for the second time, I realize I covered much of the city the last time I was here. Even though I am staying at a different place in another part of the city, I frequently find myself saying, "Oh yeah. I remember this." 😂 I am impressed since I am several kilometers from my first bed and breakfast.

One market I did not visit previously was the clothing market. I wandered into it unexpectedly. I love these moments. I notice all the merchandise is new. There are many things, from shoes to socks, to pants and dresses. Not only is the variety tremendous, but the prices are incredibly cheap. Most items are under 10 Euros, with many less than 5 Euros. The market is filled with locals, and I enjoy watching them shop.

Another new place I found today is this one selling fresh seafood. Nearly 50 bowls are on the table, and a separate area is just for fish. Each bowl has a unique type of fresh shellfish, from tiny clams to larger mussels. There must be at least 30 types of clams on the table. This is my first time seeing this much diversity from a single vendor. Seeing this makes me want to buy a few different types and sample them tonight. Unfortunately, I wouldn't be able to give the shellfish the care they deserve, given the lack of proper cooking equipment and ingredients I have at my disposal. And I have a pizza-making class tonight. 😁 I love pondering the idea of what could be, nevertheless.

On my way to the pizza-making class, I pass Castel Nuevo. This castle was built in 1279 A.D. and was where the King of Naples, Aragon, and Spain lived until 1815 A.D. Its location is scenic, with a beautiful view of Mt. Vesuvius to the left (not pictured). The castle has a great history and is one of the few I've seen that used multi-colored building materials for the exterior. It gives the castle a distinguished look, along with the beautiful towers.

I chose to return to Naples for culinary classes because this is where I had the best culinary experiences in my travels. The other place that stood out was Sicily. However, I could not find courses on how to prepare those delicious savory pastries. In addition, the pizza in Naples is unlike anywhere else, and I find it superior to all others I tasted in southern Italy. So it made sense to return here to learn what makes pizza unique in Naples.

I arrive at Pizzeria San Carlo around 10 minutes before the class starts. I make my way inside, where I am greeted by my host, Maria.

Waiting for us, there are 12 multi-colored bowls, water, yeast, and salt on a large table.

"Welcome to Pizzeria San Carlo. Before we start, let's take a group photo and do quick introductions," says Marie. The image below shows our group representing the United States, Canada, Hong Kong, Spain, and the Czech Republic.

I notice that everything is already measured on the table before us. Maria begins after we all wash up and put on our plastic aprons. "Add all the salt, yeast, and about 80% of the water. The key to great-tasting pizza is to use live yeast and very cold water. It is what makes pizza from Napoli different than other places," she says. "Oh, and don't worry about the recipe. I'll send you all the details later. Be present and enjoy making pizza," she continues.

"Start to make a ball from the ingredients. Once you have a ball, dump it on the table and knead it. Be gentle with your dough. This is pizza dough, not bread. You want to gently stretch the dough without breaking it," says Maria as she shows us the technique. 

I do as instructed. Then Maria tells me to add the remaining water in small increments as I knead the dough. This time the technique changes. I work the dough in my hands using only the tips of my fingers and thumbs. "You are using too much hands. Use your fingertips, not the palms of your hands. Your dough is too warm," says Maria to Jennifer, the blond lady at the head of the table.

After several minutes my dough turns to glue. I continue adding water until it's all in the dough. It's sticky and clings to my fingers. I am making a real mess of this dough. I have done very little baking before. My sister Dana was the baker. I was the cook when we were growing up 😀"Keep working on it. It will turn," says Maria.

Voila! The dough turns as the gluten fibers finally align. Now I have a ball of dough that has a nice smooth exterior that glistens in the light. Maria is also kneading her dough. "Ok. Now drop it on the table like this, then use your small fingers to cradle the dough while you turn it and make a nice round ball," she says. Plop, plop, plop,...the table echoes as we toss our dough onto its surface. 

"Now we wait at least 6 hours for the dough to rest," says Maria. People at the table turn to their partners, wondering what will happen since it's already around 730 PM. "Don't worry, we'll use these later. To finish your pizza, we'll use a dough we made this morning," says Maria. I can see the relief on everyone's face. "Well done, everyone! Now go wash up before the next part," says Maria as she collects all the dough.

The next part happens in small groups of 2-3 people. But before continuing, a waiter from the restaurant brings wine and bruschetta (broo sketta). The tomatoes in Italy are incredibly sweet. Some varieties I have purchased elsewhere are sweet but not like these. The bruschetta is fantastic!

Next, I head upstairs to make my pizza. Near the pizza oven, I am greeted by the pizza maker. "Today we will be making Pizza, Margherita," he says, showing me how to stretch the dough. First, he adds a bit of flower to the stone surface. "Your turn," he says. I begin stretching the dough with my fingertips. After the pizza is about 25 cm (10 in), it is time to remove the excess flour. This process involves lifting the pizza into one hand and stretching and slapping it on the stone countertop. The chef then hands me the ladle for the sauce, a handful of low-moisture mozzarella, and a few basil leaves.

Voila! The pizza oven is about 500 C (900 F), and the pizza cooks in only three minutes! This allows the toppings to cook while ensuring the dough is well-cooked but still moist. This gives the pizza a heavenly soft dough feel that is delightful. It is one of the reasons why I chose to return to Naples for this class. 

As I indulged in this pizza-making experience, I learned I frequently put too many ingredients on my pizza. However, I also realized that the crust does not need to be crispy to be done. This is the beauty of pizza. There are many different types, and they vary regionally, even in Italy. I like the Neapolitan-style pizza and look forward to reproducing it at home. Since conventional ovens are much lower temperatures than a brick wood-fired oven, my instructions call for baking the pizza for about 15 minutes and adding the ingredients halfway through the baking at 245 C (475 F). 

A great experience! Plus, I got dinner from the deal, entree, pizza, wine, and dessert. Not bad for 60 euros (65 USD).