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| When I arrived near this little abandoned church above Tropea, I was moved by the church's location and how it sits at an intersection. A decision must be made at this moment. Right or Left? Or perhaps the church offers salvation from making a decision at this moment? Another alternative is to sit right here and reflect on what moves me about being here. Every moment is full of wonders, and having the time to explore these is fantastic! |
My day begins in the Bed and Breakfast kitchen around 9 am. Most people are finishing up their breakfast. As I start preparing my breakfast, I encounter a tall German woman. We are after the same things this morning. It's a bit of a struggle as we are both in each other's way. We both take turns yielding to each other. For example, I place my cup of tea on a table and notice a few moments later she is attempting to place her plate down on the same side when she realizes my tea is there. After exchanging a few words, we decide to share the table and enjoy each other's company over breakfast.
Manuella is from Berlin. We have a great conversation over breakfast. She is a teacher on a 1-year sabbatical. She rode her bike from Berlin to Tropea, a jaunt she had made before. We exchange travel stories. "I can tell with your technical clothes that you like to hike. I know a great little hike. It takes a couple hours if you are interested," she says. That sounds wonderful. I was planning to find a hike today. If you know the area, I would love to join you. What are your plans today? Are you staying or leaving Tropea? "I think I will stay one more day. My plans are fluid," she says, and we discuss the benefits of flexibility when traveling. A few minutes later, it is settled. "Let's meet in 30 minutes?" she says. Sounds great. It will allow me to grab a few things like water and my pack.
When we leave the bed and breakfast, Manuella turns and says, "It might be longer than I said. Maybe we should grab some food before we go. I think it is closer to four hours," I laugh to myself as I ponder what I have signed up for. 😂 Yeah, that would be a good idea. I don't have any food with me, just water, I say. So on the way out of town, we find a little grocery store. We each pick up a fresh sandwich, and I grab a red bell pepper and a handful of fresh fava beans to snack on.
From Tropea, it takes us about 30-40 minutes to climb to the start of the Camino di Ulisse. "The worst of it is getting to the trail," says Manuella. Then we are in good shape because that wasn't too bad, I reply. The trail is well-marked and is not frequently traveled. Manuella has done this hike before. However, it's been some time, she tells me. That explains why she questions herself several times at major intersections as she tries to recall the path.
The Camino di Ulisse is well marked. From this point, the trail descends 250 m (820 ft) in elevation and then climbs 250 m (820 ft) again after reaching the bottom. As we continue, Manuella shares a trek she made from Italy to Rome with me. The Via Francigena is approximately 2,200 km (1,367 mi) and begins in Grand St. Bernard, Switzerland, then passes through northern Italy before finishing in Rome. Manuella walked about half of the Via Francigena from Florence to Rome. We talk about the similarities between the Camino and the Via. We speak generally about the types of people we encountered and the suffering we witnessed. It is incredible how some people decide they want to suffer on these trips. 😔 Yet they find the courage, energy, and resolve to overcome their suffering every single day. It's an amazing thing to experience in addition to beautiful scenery.
I follow Manuella up the Camino di Ulisses. This part of the trail is very rustic, which I enjoy tremendously.😁
Near the top of the climb, we pass a swing.
Manuella, who speaks fluent Italian, tells me that written on the swing in Italian is, Non smettere mai di Sognare (Never Stop Dreaming).
Along the way, we pass several olive orchards. This is the first time I have seen the ground tilled around olive trees like this, I tell Manuella. It gives the appearance that the people here care deeply for the orchards. I don't know if this is the case, but it matters not.
Walking with Manuella is simple and easy. This was precisely what I wanted to do today, and I am fortunate to have met her this morning. As we return to Tropea, I glance at the app on my phone. Wow! We walked 20 km (12.5 mi) today! I tell Mauella. Really? she says. We exchange Hi-5s! 😁 Good thing we picked up some food this morning. It took us a little about 6 hours today. A fantastic day!
During our walk, Mauella told me that she prefers not to eat alone at a restaurant, and so she seldom eats out. So, when we return to Tropea, we make plans to meet up at a restaurant after she completes her errands.
Hiking with Manuella is wonderful! 😁We walk at a similar pace. We have great conversations. It reminds me of being on a mini Camino. As we progress through the day, I am enjoying every moment with my new companion. At one point, I drift and recall other German women I hiked with during my travels. Specifically, I remember Felicia on the Camino and Laura in Albania. I wonder how they are doing and where their paths have taken them? Manuella reminds me of both of them in some ways. I note that all the German women I have hiked with are very confident. They are direct and yet have a subtle softness that is not always apparent. I admire this, which is one reason I enjoy spending time with them and Manuella.
I feel great today! The morning haze has given way to sunshine. There is just enough of a breeze to keep me cool as I enjoy the fantastic views from the top of the mountains east of Tropea. For example, these Judas Trees that frame our path today are magnificent. There's a myth that Judas Iscariot, who betrayed Jesus, hanged himself from this tree. That caused the white flowers to turn red due to his blood. However, the actual cause of Judas' death is lost to history, and many conflicting stories exist in the Bible. nevertheless, the trees are beautiful!
After dinner, we wander to cliffs overlooking the ocean and watch the clouds roll in. There is not much of a sunset tonight, but a few colors flash. It reminds me that sometimes my day can change quickly like it did when I met Manuella this morning. I had no idea that a 20-min conversation would lead me to such a fantastic day!
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