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| Halfway through the first stage, at around 8 km (5 mi), I catch my first glimpse of Faycelles, France. There are many tiny villages along the GR 651. Most are well under 1,000 people. The towns resemble one another due to the stone constructions and brown stone roofs. I love the simplicity and age of these little towns. Most have only basic amenities, if any. |
Last night I felt a bit uncomfortable. I've not had this feeling rise up before starting a new trek. I know it isn't because I am in a new location or starting a new hike that has me feeling this way. I stop for a moment. That's it! When I walked the Camino, I always had a phone app I could refer to. The apps gave me the route, elevations, and expected towns I would encounter for the day. I always knew what I was planning to do before the day started.
The only thing I knew when I felt uncomfortable last night as I was leaving in the morning for an 80 km (50 mi) trek along GR 651 for 5 days, and I was leaving from Figeac, France. "I need your help, Céline. I have no idea what our plan is. Since I was at Plum Village, we didn't have time to coordinate. We leave in the morning, and I feel lost," I say. "Ok. I understand. When we leave tomorrow, we will follow the GR 65 for a few kilometers to Béduer, where we will take the GR 651 variant. The trail is very well marked. How far do you want to walk? Figeac to Béduer is a bit over 8 km (5 mi), but there is no place to stay in Béduer," she says. After telling her that I think 8 km (5 mi) is too short and that I would love to do around 20 km (12.5 mi) per day, we decided to try to stay in Corn, France, where there is a Gite instead of walking 35 km (22 However, there are no restaurants or grocery stores in Corn. But there is a big market in Figeac on Saturday mornings (i.e., tomorrow). We can grab a few things for the next few days before heading out," she says. Alright, I am going to follow your lead and just walk. No phone apps. We'll figure it out as we go, I reply.
Figeac, France, is in the top right in the image below. The Chemin de Puy (GR 65) and the Valley of the Célé (GR 651) split at the second town, Beduer, France. The GR 651 heads northwest along the Célé River, while the GR65 heads southwest. Saint-Cirq-Lapopie is southwest of Béduer, where GR 651 rejoins the Lot River. The trek is 80 km (50 mi).
When we head out the door in the morning, Céline says, "The lady at the Gite will make us breakfast and a picnic lunch instead of dinner tonight. So I brought some rice that we can use for dinner tonight if you like?" Céline says. The market is enormous, and I love what I see even before exploring it. We discuss a few things to get to go with the rice, then we split up. We each grab what pleases us from the market to cover snacks, lunch, and dinner later tonight.
I rejoin Céline in front of a vendor. "Have you ever tried Farçous (Far-sou)?" she asks. I shake my head and say, I have never heard of it. "These look great," she says as she turns to the lady and says, "I'll take two." Farçous are a specialty of south-central France. These Swiss Chard and egg pancakes are a real delicacy and remind me of a flat quiche.
It is a beautiful morning when we leave Figeac. The air is cool and perfect for walking. I feel great today! 😁 My body feels awesome and much better than on the Camino, thanks largely to the rest I gave it this winter. My pack, which weighs around 8 kg (17 lbs), is about half the weight I carried while on the Camino. I notice the difference, and it feels great on my back today. I am thrilled to be walking again. This will be a fun week! What a great transition back after my week at Plum Village. Best of all, the scenery of the rural landscape is lovely, just what I was hoping for. 😊
One of the things I remembered that I loved about walking with Céline is that frequently we don't walk together. We are comfortable giving each other space, and neither feels pressure to cling to the other. This affords me the solitude I need to reflect. Then when we find each other again, we use the time to stretch our ideas. It's like chewing a piece of bubble gum that never loses its flavor after I blow bubbles. I recall now why we spent so many weeks walking together on the Camino.
Around 7 km (4.5 mi), as I arrive in Fayselles, France. The path leading up to the town is stunning. A perfect place for a short break.
Leaving Faycelles, I stop and take a photo of the beautiful countryside. This part of France is rural and wide open. I feel blessed to be here!
The trails in France are marked very well. Not only are there trail marks, a white bar over a red bar, but signs like these frequently show directions and kilometers to each town. I realize quickly that a phone app is not needed here. And with that, I let go of all feelings tied to needing to instantly know where I am.
After passing through Béduer, France, the GR 651 splits from the GR 65. The GR 651 drops in elevation quickly as it looks to join the Célé River. I look back at Bédeur and notice a beautiful cemetery on the hillside. Unfortunately, there is no easy access from here, so I'll have to settle for a passing glimpse.
After completing the Camino Del Norte, I felt the stages were too long. There were few opportunities to do short stages. I wanted to change it this time around. So, when I reach the bottom of the descent and see Céline taking off her pack, I decide to join her for lunch. It feels really good to stop. We should have done more of this on the Camino, I say, laughing as I take off my shoes. "The stages on the Camino were too long. We have the time now. There is no need to rush," she says.
Corn is a scenic little village without amenities. I feel great and could have walked much longer today. This is precisely what I was hoping for. My tracking app tells me I walked about 18.5 km (11.5 mi) today. A perfect day to ease back into my walking routine.
After arriving at the Gite, we are greeted by a little old lady. The little old lady operates the Gite for her daughter. After chatting with her, she shows us to our rooms, the kitchen, and the rest of the Gite. "In the fridge, you'll find your picnic lunches for tomorrow. I made two types of sandwiches, salami, and rillets. There are also some apples. If you need anything, don't hesitate to call," she says before heading out.
This is the lovely view from the balcony of the Gite, La Maison de Cécile, in Corn.
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