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| The tower of the priory in Espanac-Sainte-Eulalie is stunning. The contrast of the materials (i.e., wood, stone, and brick) along with the color (i.e., black, tan, and orange) makes the tower stunning. |
Well, dried kiwis don't exactly taste like kiwis. I bought a scoop full from the market in Figeac as they looked good. Strangely they don't taste like kiwis, or at least how I would have expected dried kiwis to taste. 😂 They aren't bad, just different. Would I buy them again? Not if there were other dried fruits available. It's fun to try new things.
About halfway up, the trail leaves the few remaining houses and turns into a single hiking path. The last place I passed had this sign posted next to their driveway. I smile, knowing I have already hiked 830 km (515) miles of the 1,236 km (768 mi). It feels good to be reminded of the Camino today. I spent a moment reflecting on my journey on the Del Norte route last fall. I am fortunate to have completed that trek, given that I could not even walk a few months before starting.
The further away I get from the Célé River, the deeper I get into the Oak mixed woodlands of France. I notice that the trees are much smaller, the diversity of tree species is lower, and I am in France. Even though nothing really resembles the Pacific Northwest, it still reminds me of the mixed hardwood stands on the coast. 😂
I encounter an unusual structure high above the trail. The fort-like structure is inaccessible and attached directly to the side of the cliff. The English Castle, as it is called, was built around the 12th century A.D. It has two floors. One that served as a guard room and the other room for nobles. It was later used as a prison during religious wars. The inhabitants of Brengues converted to Protestantism, who often abducted Catholics and held them here for ransom.
After lunch and a siesta, I arrive in Brengues with Céline. Do you think anything is open in town? It's after 2 pm on Sunday? I ask. "We have the time. We can take a slight detour and find out, but I think everything is closed," she says. It's about 200 m (656 ft) downhill to the small village of Brengues. As we near the town, I begin to doubt we will find anything in this village of 200 people.
The trail today is quite lovely. I always enjoy walking single tracks like these. I am glad I lightened my pack before leaving yesterday. Having a lighter pack makes a lot of difference. My pack would be extremely light and way too big had I decide not to carry my laptop with me. Although it only weighs 1.5 kg (3.5 lbs), it is what I call "Dead Weight." It serves no purpose during the day while I hike. Nevertheless, I carry it with me wherever I go. One of these days, I will hike again without a laptop on my back. 😂
When we arrive at the grocery store next to the pastry shop, everything is closed, but I notice a freshwater faucet on the building across the street. At least I can refill my bottle with water before continuing on. I turn the faucet on, and nothing happens. I laugh and tell Céline nothing is open in this town. Even the water is shut off. 😂
As we leave Brengues behind, the rain begins to fall. Do you want to can take shelter under that tree near the house? I say to Céline. "We have time. Plus, it looks like we can grab water there," she says as she points to a small sign on the edge of the road inviting Pilgrims to refill their water bottles. Before filling up, I shed my pack, pull out my rain gear, and wait out the deluge before refilling my bottle and resuming the trek.
With one more climb and another 5 km (3.5 km), Céline and I resume our trek. I am pleased when I encounter another post along the trail.
This one speaks of Nature:
Nature is precious. Take care of it, marvel at so much beauty, love it, cherish it. Everything is perfection, patience, and voluptuousness. Savor all these gifts, these games of greenery and colors. Nature is love. Everything is meticulously created with love. She is the cloth of creation. Everything in her is peace and serenity. Everything is softness, delicacy, vulnerability, meticulous and fragile. Let yourself be inspired, carry, purify, transcend. She has
SO MUCH TO BRING YOU. Take the time and let her talk to you. Honor her with all your love and gentleness. She is in Your image. It is you that you honor through her.
In the valley below, I get my first glimpse of Saint Sulpice. It is now a bit after 4 pm. I feel great. These stages are shorter than on the Camino, allowing me more rest time. As a result, I feel great by the day's end. Although I am ready to shed my pack, I am not nearly as tired as I was on the Camino.
The Gite d'étape - Le Chant de la Falais (The Stage Gite - The Song of the CliffI is situated below me against the cliff below. It overlooks the valley.
Tonight, there are only three of us at the Gite. Myself, Céline, and an older man named Gerrard. At dinner, the three of us converse. Well, actually, it is mostly Céline and Gerrard. I listen mostly and join in the conversation occasionally.
Gerrard is from La Rochelle, northwest France, and has a noticeably different way of speaking. His French is fast, soft, and he has a distinctively different accent that those of southern France. Sometimes it takes me a moment to grasp what he is saying. Gerrad has a pleasant demeanor, and I enjoyed his company this evening even though I mostly listen to him.
Gerrard loves to walk. He's completed several long treks. This time he is walking alone while his wife walks with her friends on another route. "My wife walks too fast for me. I have a bad hip, so I can't walk as far or as fast as her," he says. "Each day, I relocate my car to my endpoint. Then I walk the trail towards where I started in the morning. At about halfway, I turn around. Then I walk back to return to the endpoint of the stage where my car is," he continues.
This is one of the things I love about walking for multiple days like this. I never know who I will cross paths with. I've met many people, including some that I would not expect to be walking. Everyone has their own reasons, and they are not important. Ultimately, we all belong to the same community and always have at least one thing in common.
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