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| Dry stone huts, known locally as Caselles, were built in the 1800s all over the French countryside by sheepherders and vineyard caretakers as temporary shelters. These dry stone shelters are constructed without mortar. The conical roofs are shaped by stacking and shaping flat rocks to achieve the iconic shape. They are common in the Lot Region, especially along the Valley of the Célé. In other regions, they are known as Capitelles or Bories. The Caselles are surprisingly cool inside and quiet. The roof has one to two small ventilation holes that can be easily be plugged to control airflow. |
Today's stage leads me inland, away from the Célé River. Today's distance is 17.5 km (11 mi), and the route climbs to a maximum elevation of 315 m (1,034 ft). 
"So what's next for you?" asks Gerard at breakfast. I look at him. Then chuckle. That's a broad question. What period are you referring to? He laughs, then says, "What will you do after you stop walking? What job will you have?" Honestly, I don't have an answer to that. I discovered that I didn't want to work for a while a year ago. When I left, I told myself. I wouldn't think about working again for at least the first 6 months. After I returned from Mexico in February, I realized 6 months wasn't enough time for me. So, here I am. I know it will reveal itself when it is time. Right now, what I know is that I am changing careers. I am not returning to being a wildlife biologist, even though I greatly enjoyed it.
After discussing what I did previously as a wildlife biologist, we decide it is time to head out. "If you want to save weight today, we could load your packs in my car. I'd be happy to shuttle them to for you to the next Gite," says Gerrard. Thanks for the offer, but I am good carrying my pack today, I reply. Céline nods as she thanks Gerrard and declines his kind offer. A few minutes later, we all say goodbye and head out.Not long after leaving, I pass another short passage from Around the World in Happiness. Although the passage makes me smile, I find one sentence odd. Even as I write this post, I feel I am overlooking something...
Welcome Abundance, free yourself, jump into the unknown and trust life, the invisible world that supports and encourages you in this period when you are on the verge of seeing your dreams and desires manifest. Continue, persevere. Everything falls into place. The first positive signs are here. Patience. Have faith in what you are doing.You are extraordinary and so inspiring to others. Open your arms wide to welcome with gratitude all the gifts of the Universe. Beautiful luminous and spiritual soul, you open the way for all women to reconnect with their deep essence and illuminate the world with their light, a light of love, soothing, which heals. Be at peace, move forward with serenity and confidence. We are by your side. We support you.
The trail to Marcilhac-sur-Célé is about 8.5 km (5 mi) from Saint Sulpice. The path takes me up into the oak woodlands. Although I cannot see a single one, I notice that there is always a Common Cuckoo singing in the distance. I enjoy hearing them, and it makes me smile to be able to Bird by Ear today. Although I suspect I have listened to several Cuckoos today, I never hear more than one at a time. It makes me feel as if a single bird is guiding the way. I feel connected to the trail and enjoy my vocal companions today.
I wonder if I am a bit stuck when it comes to finding my next career. I don't know what my blockage is. I know it will reveal itself when I am ready. At the moment, though, I am a bit surprised that I still have no desire to start working yet, I tell Céline. "I find the concept of a career strange. It feels rigid and limiting," she says. That's interesting. I wonder if that isn't part of my blockage. After a moment, I continue. It's a North American concept, for sure. So many things are tied to the idea of a career, like retirement, income, health insurance, and success. "That is a strange and foreign concept to me. Why not just work a job for a while, then find something else later if you feel like it?" she asks. Good point. I need to reflect on this. I wonder if it isn't time to deconstruct my paradigms about work, I say.
We arrive in Marcilhac-sur-Célé a little past noon. I am ready for a break, I tell Céline. "The boulangerie and grocery store close at 1 pm. We have time to eat a Galette if you are hungry," she says, pointing to a little creamsicle travel trailer.
Galettes are a savory version of the French crepe made from Buckwheat that originates from the Normandy Region. Don't call them crepes, though. The French are very particular about both, and according to them, they are very different.
It feels great to sit and enjoy the lovely view. I take off my shoes and enjoy the sunshine. The young lady on the right of the photo was soon joined by half a dozen much older trekkers. They were the only other hikers I had seen on the trail thus far. They all headed down the trail without her. She hobbled over and climbed into a car that was here to pick her up after an emotional goodbye with her group. Moments like these always remind me that the ability to walk is a gift and can be taken at any instant, so it is best to enjoy every moment.
Before leaving the village, Céline and I take a moment to visit the Abbey de Marcilhac. The sun is high, and I am struggling to get a decent photo, so I used a black-and-white filter. The Abbey was built in the 12th century in a Romanesque style. It was destroyed then, rebuilt in part in a Gothic style before being destroyed again during the 100-Years War. The Abbey is nevertheless very impressive to see.
Leaving, I look back and take a photo of the ruins of the Abbey (picture left) and the village.
The trail begins to climb immediately after leaving Marcilhac-sur-Célé. What is going on? I step aside every 50m (150 ft) and let the oncoming traffic descend past me. Most of the trekkers are considerably older than me. They look like retirees. All are engaged in discussions, so beyond the casual "Bonjour," I have no exchanges with them. This slows my progress a bit. No less than half a dozen groups of 3 to 8 people pass by me.
"How did you like all those retirees," asks Céline. I laugh. That was incredible. At least they are getting out. It proves that anyone can do this. I would have never expected to encounter most of these folks on the trail. "Weekdays are busy times on the trails for retirees in France. Many do short ventures for a day or two," she says.
Soon the trail is clear of people. In the distance, I can hear a cuckoo call to me. I love hearing them in the distance.
Towards the end of the trek, I pass a sign for a detour to a Megalithic Dolem. Let's take the detour! It's only a few hundred meters, I say to Céline. She agrees, and soon we arrive at this beautiful portal tomb (i.e., Dolem). The massive capstone is broken into three pieces. Otherwise, the Dolem is in great shape. Megalithic sites exist throughout Europe and are believed to have originated in Northwest France. One of the most impressive Dolems I have listed is the Kilclooney in northwest Ireland. Although the shape of the capstone was more impressive, the size of this one is even more impressive. Seeing these massive stones balance on only a few other rocks is amazing. I often wonder what rituals were associated with these burials, I say to Céline.
We arrive at the Gite O Coeur Des Sans a bit after four. Nathalie, the lady of the house, shows us to our rooms. "I always save space for people that don't make reservations, especially those that stay at Le Chant de La Falais," she says. Thank you. Nathalie mentored the lady of the house at Le Chant de La Falais.
After cleaning up, I run into Gerrard. Did you just arrive? I ask him. "Yes. It takes me a while. This is the downside of my process. I start late in the day by the time I shuttle my car and everything else," he says. I spent a while chatting with Gerrard this evening. It's good to see a familiar face. We talk about traveling, places we've visited. Finally, he says, "I need to get cleaned up before dinner." We can chat more at dinner, I say.
You know, it's interesting. I found Gerrard a few moments ago, and we chatted like we'd known each other for a while. I noticed I was way more comfortable with him than last night, I tell Céline when I see her again. "That's interesting. What do you think is going on?" she says.
This is one of the things I enjoy about spending time with Céline. She is not only very observant, but she also challenges me to explore things I sense and feel.
I've always been better with people one on one. In groups, I don't always need to speak. I am comfortable letting others carry the conversation and am more mindful about what I choose to say and when I say it. It also takes a little while to recognize some people's speech patterns in French. In those situations, I am more tentative. But tonight, I really enjoyed talking with Gerrard. I really like him, I tell Céline. "I like him too. It's good to see him again," she says.
This photo overlooks the valley near Suliac-sur-Célé, where I ended the trek on Day 3.
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