Utrecht (Netherlands) | Cycling in Utrecht - 5 Aug, 2023

Kasteel De Haar is the largest castle in The Netherlands. The castle dates back to 1391 A.D. and was owned by the De Haar family only until 1440 A.D. when the last male heir died. As impressive as the castle is, the surrounding gardens are even more spectacular.

"If you are interested in experiencing the bicycle culture, you might want to rent a bike and ride to Kasteel De Haar," said Ivo a few days ago. "I've never been there myself, but I hear it is amazing," he continued. I like that idea. How far from the city center is it? I asked. "It's about 20 km each way. There's a bike path that will take you all the way there," he said.

What better way to experience Dutch culture than to rent a bicycle and ride with the flow. I've spent a lot of time on a bike but have never experienced large crowds of cyclists or shared in the commuter culture. I can't wait to do it. It costs me 8 Euros for half a day's rental.

I absolutely love how the city is designed. As I leave the city center, I encounter motor vehicles. It isn't that the Dutch don't use cars. Rather they are mindful of the environment and prefer to use bicycles or walk. Pedestrians, cyclists, and motor vehicles have designed spaces, allowing traffic flow very efficiently. The cycling lanes here are wide. Typically, the lanes are two or three bikes wide and move in the same direction as traffic. The latter is something I didn't realize until I found myself cycling counter-current. I felt like a salmon swimming upstream and quickly realized this was an inefficient and dangerous way to cycle in Utrecht. 😂

A way out of the city center, the cycling path changed. Traffic flowed in both directions, and the path was much broader. One of the coolest bicycles I've seen is the Dutch Cargo Bike, like the one the woman in the photo below uses. They are also available in an electric version. These cargo bikes are ubiquitous here. Most people use them to transport kids, adults, groceries, and other things.

The kilometers fall away as I pedal my way to Kesteel De Haar. I love the ride through the Dutch countryside. I see evidence of Dutch Engineering everywhere I go, and I am always close to waterways.

Near the castle, I ride past a moat that separates the castle grounds from the rest of the area. Two Mute Swans are taking advantage of the lovely day.

The wind is blowing steadily, and I am tired and hungry when I arrive at Kesteel de Haar. After locking up my rental bike (below), I head to the entrance. I don't feel like being inside today, so I buy a ticket to access only the gardens around the castle. First on the agenda is to find a lovely spot to eat the picnic lunch I brought. Finding a place on 45 ha (111 ac) should be relatively easy. 

I spend my time at Kasteel De Haar entirely outdoors, and it feels great to be here enjoying the beautiful landscape. After exploring a bit, I found a picnic table and pulled out a small loaf of bread, gouda cheese, and red bell pepper. I've grown to enjoy these simple lunches and have found that I don't need much more these days. With lunch wrapped up, I take the next 20 minutes and explore more of the gardens before cycling home. 

The interior of Kasteel De Haar is quite stunning, and this video does a great job of sharing the highlights. There are > 7,000 trees, and 1,200 roses were planted in the gardens around the castle.

Water is abundant on the property, and several large ponds were created in the surrounding gardens. They provide refuge and resources for a variety of wildlife. 

There were nesting pairs of Mute Swans and Eurasian Coots on this pond. The baby Coots are pretty colorful with redheads compared to their drab parents.

Also on the property is a herd of European Fallow Deer. These smallish deer weigh 45-82 kg (100-180 lbs.) All the bucks are just beginning to grow antlers. Most of the year, they have relatively large antlers for their diminutive size.

On the way home, I notice that I am pedaling like a tourist. 😂 I enjoy looking at the scenery. Meanwhile, everyone, including old women and children, passes me. I did notice that several have e-bicycles, which only makes me feel slightly better. When I get near the city center, it doesn't improve. The Dutch are speedsters on their bicycles. 😂

It takes me around an hour to cycle back to the city center. I love all the green space here. I also notice that the Dutch love their outdoor spaces. Those balconies on the apartments are gigantic!

The suburbs of Utrecht are spectacular. Unique modern little houses line the sides of the canals. There is so much water in Holland. The Dutch have built canals everywhere, which gives nearly everyone waterfront properties.

After dropping off my rental, I need to walk. My butt is sore from the 40 km (25 mi) I cycled today. I check my phone and see I have plenty of time before sunset. So I head southeast towards the Kromme Rijn canal, which Lena recommended. It takes me about 40 minutes afoot to reach the canal. 

The Kromme Rijn is one of the most extensive canals in Utrecht and a lovely green space.

After walking several kilometers along the canal, I can feel that I am worn out. So, I make my way over to the tram and take it back to the city center. While on the train, I reflect on a fantastic day. I am grateful for Ivo and Lena, who recommended great places to visit. I really enjoyed visiting Madrid and getting a personal tour from Borja last fall. However, this feels like a different adventure, and I love it. I wonder what lies ahead in Amsterdam, Bruges, and Antwerp?