Utrecht (Netherlands) | The Domtren Tower - 7 Aug, 2023

 

I visited a couple of the markets in Utrecht. The first, on the west side of the city center, was entirely textiles (e.g., sewing and knitting supplies). The second I encountered was a flowers and plant market. Typically, markets include both elements, but it is unusual to find markets specific to each.

This afternoon, I am relocating to Amsterdam, Netherlands. I can feel that I am not ready to leave Utrecht yet. This city has had a different effect on me. I am sad that I am leaving this morning, even though I am looking forward to catching up with Stephan and Suskia.

Before leaving, I want to visit the Dom Tower. Even though the Tower is under construction and I won't be allowed to go up to the very top of the 112 m (368 ft) tower, I am looking forward to the view from 83 m (272 ft) above the city. There isn't another building in Utrecht that is even close to the height of the Dom Tower. It's one of the traits of the city that I love. Utrecht consciously restricted the maximum size of buildings in the city to preserve the importance of the Tower. In doing so, however, they have created a city that feels very light, small, and warm because so much of the sky remains exposed.

The Domtoren Tower was once connected to the Saint Martin Cathedral via a nave. It took 61 years to build the Dom Tower, and it was completed in 1382 AD. A tornado destroyed the nave, which was still under construction in 1674, and collapsed. The debris from the collapsed nave remained in place for > 150 years and wasn't removed until 1826. Today the Dom Tower is now separated from Saint Martin's Cathedral. The Latin Cross Church currently lacks the nave, the bottom part of the cross. 

I am unprepared for the beauty of the Tower once inside. The first stop is the St. Martin's Chapel at 11 m (36 ft) up. The Chapel is now primarily used for weddings, receptions, and parties. The second stop, at 25 m (82 ft), is the tower guard's residence. The tower guard was responsible for cleaning and maintenance of the Tower and bells. Stop three, which is 49 m (161 ft), is the ringing attic, where 14 massive bells are located. The heaviest bells weigh in at 31,000 kg (34 tons). The ringing attic houses the church bells, which are different from those of the Carillion. 

Unfortunately, it is so dark inside that none of my photos, except those outside, turned out. The view through the scaffolding is quite revealing. In every direction I look, I see trees and green belts. Utrecht is a fantastic place. Undoubtedly it is one of the reasons why I feel great being here.

Due to the construction, the guided tour ends at the Carillion, 83 m (272 ft) above the city. The Carilliion is a huge musical instrument in the Domtoren Tower. The Carillion can be pre-programmed to play music via the programming wheel. There have been 21 Carrillioneurs (i.e., persons whose job it is to play the Carillion) since 1594 AD. In this video, Maglosia Fiebig, Carrilioneur since 20111, gives a tour of the Carillion, how it functions, and evens plays it. The Dom Tower, thanks to a manual keyboard for the Carillion, can play any piece of music. Six years ago in Utrecht, Maglosia played two of Linkin Park's songs in the memorium of Chester Bennington who had recently passed away.

After the tower tour, I walk across Saint Martin Square to the remnants of the Cathedral. The Square was created between the Cathedral and Dom Tower once the nave was removed. I don't spend much time in the Cathedral. To make it function, the layout in the interior has been flipped. The congregation now sits where usually the altar would be. It feels wrong to be inside it with this layout, so I don't linger long and make my way to Utrecht Centraal.

When I arrive near the train station. I am starving and am struggling to find a place to eat. There are plenty of options around. I am simply not interested. Buying my train ticket is the last thing on my mind. I decide to buy a Frinkadel (below). The fried whipped sausage-like snack is surprisingly delicious. It is seasons just right. The texture is excellent, and despite its fried outer shell, it is quite delicate to eat. 

When finished, I sat for a while to assess what was occurring. That's it. I want to stay in Utrecht. I am not ready to go. I want to spend more time here. I lean into the discomfort, acknowledge it, and soon feel it disappate. Once I have given it the attention it requires, the uneasiness and foggy-headedness I was experiencing disappear. I walk to a nearby Asian-Japanese Fusion restaurant and order a vegetarian noodle bowl and Japanese beer. It is delicious and just what I needed.

I sit on the patio for about 40 minutes, mindfully eating my bowl and enjoying my beer. Finally finished, I walked over to the Utrecht Centraal and purchased my train ticket to Amsterdam without hesitation. I haven't visited many places that have made me feel this way. Utrecht is special. I look forward to returning. For now, it's time to head to Amsterdam.