Utrecht (Netherlands) | What If... - 3 Aug, 2023


 

Adjacent to Utrecht Centraal Train Station is the world's largest bicycle garage. The three-story garage was built in 2019 and stores > 12,500 bicycles. Inside the garage, stairs were designed with U-channel ramps that allow cyclists to easily walk their bikes up and down each garage level. This structure is unlike anything I have seen and is stunning in person. This engineering feat demonstrates a strong commitment by the city of Utrecht and the Dutch people to live free of cars. How the hell would I would find my bike if I parked there? 😂

I remember Ivo saying, "You also have to try Stroopwafels. It's a Dutch thing too." So when I descend into the hostel lobby to grab a cup of tea, I can't resist buying a package of Stroopwafels. I do not know if this is the real thing or a commercialized junk-food version, but I decided to try it. 

Stroopwafels are a cookie with two layers of sweet-baked dough and a caramel filling. They are slightly bigger than a cup, and the package advertises placing the cookie on top of your warm beverage to let it warm up. Stroopwafels are wafer-thin but quite delicious. They are not nearly as sweet as I expected and taste even better warmed up. 😃

Lena finds me and suggests we meet at a little coffee shop, Life is a Peach. "Let's grab coffee before my appointment on campus," she texts. Sounds great! It's pretty close to where I am staying. See you soon.

I'm looking forward to catching up with Lena. We spent the better part of a week at the same hostels and visiting throughout the day while walking the Camino last fall. I have not seen her since she branched off to walk the Primitivo just after Gijón.

Leaving the hostel this morning, I pass this sign. It makes me smile as I wonder, is there anything else but love?

"I'm going to get a cup of tea. I don't drink coffee," says Lena. Me too. I quit drinking coffee almost 25 years ago, I say, smiling. After ordering, we find a bench outside to sit on and visit. Are you looking forward to returning to school? I ask. "Yes. My year off is fast coming to an end, and I'll start classes again in Art History in a few months. That is why I can't spend the day with you. I have appointments for school today," she says. 

"You know, I had problems with bed bugs four times while on the Del Norte. I had no problems before or after, even though I started walking from my parent's house in the southern Netherlands," she says. What? I knew you had an issue before that difficult day in Celorio. But twice more? I say in disbelief. "The best thing I did was buy a tent in Gijón. It was so heavy to carry, but I didn't care. The Albergues usually let me camp on the lawn, but I could still use the facilities," she said. I remember being really happy for Lena when she decided to buy herself a tent, even though it weighed > 5 lbs. That is an obscene weight for a solo tent. However, she carried the remaining 320 km (200 mi) without complaint. Having the tent allowed her to be fully self-sustained, and I remember how happy she was when we chatted after that. As she recounts the story, I see the joy in her that I sensed last fall.

When I passed this store while wandering Utrecht, I couldn't help but check to myself. I've always heard that many expats from the United States and the United Kingdom lived in the Netherlands. Kellys British American Shopping provides all the standard junk and processed foods expats crave, like Gatorade, Kraft Mac 'n Cheese, Hamburger Helper, and Cheeze It. I can't help but laugh as I think I didn't crave this crap when I lived in Colorado. I sure don't miss it now. 😂 I've never been big on eating processed foods, unlike many of my counterparts. It is one reason why I love the outdoor markets that sell fresh whole foods so much when I travel.

Lena and I chatted for several hours and had several cups of tea this morning. "How do you like Utrecht, and what do you have planned while you are here?" she asks. I love Utrecht. You are very fortunate to live here. I hear it is challenging and close to impossible to find a place to live, I say. "I'm so glad to hear you like Utrecht. I love it here too," says Lena as she smiles. Ivo gave me a few ideas, but I'm interested in your thoughts. This is your city too. What makes Utrecht special for you, I ask.

"You have to see the Bee Stops," she says. Yes, I read about them. Utrecht is trying to help bees by planting plants that need to be pollinated on top of the bus stops, I say. "Utrecht is such a green place to live. It is why I like it so much. Have you been down to the Kromme Rijn canal? There are some amazing old houses to see, and the trail along the canal is wonderful," she says. I've noticed all the trees and greenery. It is unusual for a city this size. It's one of the reasons I feel so comfortable here, I tell her. As I listen to Lena tell me about places to visit, I watch her eyes and smile light up. She describes the areas that are special to her. I can tell that it makes her feel good to have someone take an interest in the important things to her.

I am surprised by my experience with Ivo and Lena. When they asked me what I wanted to do, I turned the question and asked them to show me what they enjoyed most. Both have recommended places that take me outdoors because they thought I would appreciate it. It feels great to have people recommend things I love to do without my prompting them. 

"I've got an appointment to get to," she says. I'll walk with you, I say. Just before parting ways, we take the photo above together. Seeing Lena again was great, and I wasn't sure how our time together would go. Sitting with her and drinking tea was like visiting a close friend I had known for years, not a few months.

The Dutch love being outdoors and really value their greenspace. When I took this picture of people at the park, I didn't realize that almost everyone in the photo was sitting facing the same direction. The majority of people have their backs on the camera. 😂 It's strange, even if they were all facing the sun.

One of the most intriguing buildings in Utrecht is the Rietveld Schröder House. I was sad that I was not able to visit the interior. The house was built around 1924 and is more of an art piece than a standard house. However, the way the house uses space, forms, and color intrigues me. In the link above, short videos show some of the house's unique features, like hidden staircases and moveable walls.

The more time I spend in this city, the more I fall in love with it, and I can't wait to explore some of the places that Ivo and Lena have recommended. The more time I spend here, the more I find myself asking What if...

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