Antwerp (Belgium) | A Real Bordello - 1 Sept, 2023

While exploring the city center of Antwerp, I discovered this mushroom house. It instantly connected with me. While admiring the beautiful mural, I wondered, what if all homes had murals instead of traditional colors? Would communities be more or less tolerant of different ideas?

No one moves early in Isabel's house. When I finally hear movement, sometime after 10 a.m., I descend the two flights of stairs and find Isabel and Boots at the breakfast table. "I will head to work this afternoon; I'm sorry I must leave you. There's a flea market today if you want to join Boots and me before I head to work," says Isabel. I'd love to go, I say. 

I remember when I didn't have much appreciation for flea markets. There was little utility in them for me. Nowadays, especially since I started traveling, I view them as a time capsule. I love wandering the aisles and looking at things local folks no longer have use for. It helps me connect with their culture. Plus, occasionally, I see something that captivates me.

After breakfast, we grab our bikes and head out the door. Isabel has a long hallway in her house where she can store four bicycles. Three most of the time, but when Boots is here, he keeps his bike there too. 

I am excited this morning to experience life without a car. Sure, I've been traveling without a car for about a year, but it's different. Isabel and Boot's entire lives revolve around not owning a car and doing everything from a bicycle. This appeals to me, especially after visiting Utrecht, Netherlands. 

I follow Isabel and Boots on their commuter bikes. Both have saddle bags, which they use to carry most of their needs. When Isabel occasionally needs help transporting things, she calls on Boots. He has a bucket bike, which he uses to transport his DJ equipment. 

I realized quickly that Antwerp is not at all like Utrecht. Rather than having bicycle lanes, cyclists must share the road with motorists  Because this can be a challenge at times, Antwerp found a creative solution. Certain sections of the shared road are painted in red. In these sections, cars are not allowed to pass cyclists. Though the inverse is permitted. Although I am somewhat protected, it takes some getting used to. I am not entirely comfortable with this scenario this morning, even though I cycle a lot in Colorado, United States.

"This is a real flea market with real people selling stuff from their houses. This isn't some commercial thing," says Boots after we park our bikes. In the photo below, Isabel and Boots shop the used vinyls (i.e., records). Those two look cute together.

Surprisingly, I even found a few things I would like to own, like this terracotta cooking pot. I didn't even ask how much. I knew I could get it for cheap.  Unfortunately, it isn't something I want to pack around with me until I return to the United States. So, I snap this photo and keep browsing.

That, unfortunately, is one of the downsides of traveling light. Frequently, I encounter things that remind me of people or that I would like to own, but I know I don't have room. My solution is to take a photo and send it to the person or keep it as a memory.

I wander the aisles a few times, just like when I am in a market. There are always things I pick up on the second time around, Like these four Bansky prints. I stop and drift to my days in Bristol where I saw some of Bansky's original works. I was surprised to find these here and would have bought all four. Instead, I took this photo. 😂

Isabel heads off to work, and Boots and I join some of his friends where we sit while having a beer  There are two things that Boots likes: music and beer  Fortunately, I enjoy talking about both, so the two of us hit it off  "Cabardouche Stout Mokke is brewed right here in Antwerp  It's a nice stout with a chocolate mocha taste," Boots says to me  Given a preference, I would drink stouts over most IPAs  It's nice to find a place where people still enjoy the great taste of a stout  The current trend is to brew India Pale Ales and all their variations, which are much lighter and hoppier.

After sitting with Boots for about an hour, I head out to explore Antwerp on my own  "Are you going to come to the concert tonight with Isabel? It's fucking gypsy music. After a while, it all sounds the same, but they asked me to DJ during intermission and after the show," says Boots  We'll see how Isabel feels when she gets home, but I think we want to come to the show," I say. 

Fortunately, I have Mila's bike since I am a ways from the city center. My comfort level with the streets did not improve while talking with Boots. The space around me feels tight and chaotic while I ride. Finally, when I get close, I park the bike and decide to walk instead. It feels much safer to me. For example, I encountered a four-way intersection, and unlike in Utrecht, pedestrians and cyclists moved in all four directions simultaneously. It's nuts. Antwerp is trying to become more bike-friendly, but they obviously have a ways to go. 

One of the city center's most impressive buildings I visited was the Antwerp Centraal Train Station. The building was constructed in 1895 and is incredible. Unfortunately, I arrived at Antwerp-Zuid (Antwerp-South) station the other day. Antwerp-Zuid is a modern square building that lacks all the aesthetics of this station. This is hands down one of the most beautiful train stations I have ever visited.  

I leave Antwerp-Centraal and pass through the Diamond District. About 84% of all the world's rough-cut diamonds pass through Antwerp to be cut and polished. I enjoy the flaneuring my way around the city center. The city center feels a bit touristy, but there are many great sites to see and restaurants to experience. The video in the preceding link highlights Antwerp very well and many of the places I visited.

Sometime after 5 p.m., Isabel texts me, "I'm home. Where are you? Do you still want to go to the show tonight?" After a few back and forths, I realized I was about a 25-minute bike ride from Isabel's house. I made my way back on Mila's bike, then Isabel and I grabbed our bikes and headed out. "You are going to love the De Roma Theatre. It has been restored and is now operated by a non-profit volunteer group. They host all sorts of performing arts there. Occasionally, they have big names like Elvis Costello and The Pretenders," says Isabel. That sounds amazing. I tell her I can't wait to see it and watch Boots DJ.

"Boots left us a ticket in will-call. I'll be right back," says Isabel as we walk into The Roma. The place is electric, and the concert is already underway.  I glance at my ticket. It reads Gogol Bordello. This should be interesting, I say to myself.

The energy in The Roma is incredible. There must be 15 musicians and singers on stage. I see a standup bongo drums set and a traditional percussion set. Another man is playing the violin and a woman playing the accordion. There's at least three guitarists and a basists. It's a real Bordello on stage, yet somehow it works. 😂 Gogol Bordello is an American punk gypsy band with members from all over the world. 

The energy is intoxicating, and I am exhausted by the time the show ends. "That was incredible. I understand why Boots doesn't want to listen to it all the time, though  It feels repetitive at times," I tell Isabel. "I'm glad you enjoyed the show  Let's grab a drink in the lobby where Boots is playing," she says.

The lobby turns into a dance club after the show. I'm amazed at how many people stay. Boots does a fantastic job of keeping the energy of the show. He plays a great mix of music, including Mortorhead and Beastie Boys. What a night!